Graphite Stiffening Rods for Bass Necks!

[JimBeed]

I would be interested to see any difference the graphite rods make to the sound compared to steel rods, if any of course.
Just thinking, the steel rod necks might be the claymores (sword i mean, CoD guys  :laughing7, while the graphite rod necks might be the single handed shield and sword swords
Bad comparison but might ring true.

 

[BSAudio]

From what I've gathered, the steel rods are better at eliminating dead spots and should have more ringing sustain while the graphite have the weight advantage and, in warmoth's words; "Old school frequency response. Sounds more like a vintage neck" I'm guessing due to the similar masses of graphite and wood. This is exactly what I want since this is a replacement for a vintage fender.

 

[JimBeed]

Whats your neck like anyways that you ordered? is it a jazz bass headstock or p bass? .

 

[BSAudio]

Well, you're quite new here and you've had a bummer timing experience - but, if you can stand even more waiting you might find somebody who can use the neck you ordered just as you ordered it - try posting the exact specs on "for sale or trade" before any kidney self-harvesting moves. There are a few builders on hand here who plow through merch pretty quickly. Though you'd be sure to take some loss, if the stars are shining upon you it might work out. Though you'd still have to wait, all over again.

I thought about doing this but it seems kinda weird considering I don't actually have it yet. I could probably get more for it on my own than warmoth would give me. (a 25% cancellation fee is basically them buying it back for 75%) plus theres also the $45 change fee (which I don't think should apply) and I count that as a loss against the first neck as well.

Sadly I don't have the funds to buy another neck while waiting for this one to sell so, realistically, it would be another 2 or 3 months before I get a neck I can use.

For anyone who's interested, the neck I ordered is:

P-Bass neck
21 fret
Canary/Canary
Slim Taper
BML Tuner Ream
6150 frets
black face dots

 

[AprioriMark]

I heard from a couple little birdies that the graphite really kills the "W sustain," and that dead spots become an issue again.  I intend to try one out, so I'll pass my experience along to you folks.

-Mark

 

[AprioriMark]

Well, you're quite new here and you've had a bummer timing experience - but, if you can stand even more waiting you might find somebody who can use the neck you ordered just as you ordered it - try posting the exact specs on "for sale or trade" before any kidney self-harvesting moves. There are a few builders on hand here who plow through merch pretty quickly. Though you'd be sure to take some loss, if the stars are shining upon you it might work out. Though you'd still have to wait, all over again.

I thought about doing this but it seems kinda weird considering I don't actually have it yet. I could probably get more for it on my own than warmoth would give me. (a 25% cancellation fee is basically them buying it back for 75%) plus theres also the $45 change fee (which I don't think should apply) and I count that as a loss against the first neck as well.

Sadly I don't have the funds to buy another neck while waiting for this one to sell so, realistically, it would be another 2 or 3 months before I get a neck I can use.

For anyone who's interested, the neck I ordered is:

P-Bass neck
21 fret
Canary/Canary
Slim Taper
BML Tuner Ream
6150 frets
black face dots

That neck sounds awesome EXCEPT THAT IT SHOULD BE J BASS WIDTH. hehehe  Honestly, it sounds amazing. 

As far as W, if they haven't started construction, I would email them about the restocking fee.  They've always done right by me.

-Mark

 

[drewfx]

Honestly if you want to talk yourself into it being a big problem, of course it'll be a big problem for you.

If you don't think about what might have been, you will be more than happy with the neck you ordered, which will probably be fantastic.

Instead of worrying about it, just tell yourself that the steel will counteract the tonal differences between maple and canary resulting in a perfect vintage sound. Then enjoy it.

 

[BSAudio]

For anyone who's interested, the neck I ordered is:

P-Bass neck
21 fret
Canary/Canary
Slim Taper
BML Tuner Ream
6150 frets
black face dots

That neck sounds awesome EXCEPT THAT IT SHOULD BE J BASS WIDTH. hehehe  Honestly, it sounds amazing. 

As far as W, if they haven't started construction, I would email them about the restocking fee.  They've always done right by me.

-Mark

I seriously considered getting a J bass neck width but decided to keep the same nut width after playing a bunch of J's at the local guitar shop. I decided I would rather have fast thin neck than a fast narrow neck. Plus P bass width is the same as my Rickenbacker.

I know everybody loooooves J necks but I wasn't really concerned with being able to sell it later (oops)

I ordered the neck in January so its almost finished.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Whats your neck like anyways that you ordered? is it a jazz bass headstock or p bass? .

Those are both the same headstock, just different nut widths.

 

[BSAudio]

Honestly if you want to talk yourself into it being a big problem, of course it'll be a big problem for you.

If you don't think about what might have been, you will be more than happy with the neck you ordered, which will probably be fantastic.

Instead of worrying about it, just tell yourself that the steel will counteract the tonal differences between maple and canary resulting in a perfect vintage sound. Then enjoy it.

You have my attention, do you mean that a maple w/ steel will sound more like canary w/ steel? or do you think the steel rods will actually make the canary w/ steel sound more like a vintage maple neck?

And I wish it was that simple. Worrying about what might have been is my bread and butter.

 

[AprioriMark]

Look, the obvious solution here is NEW BASS BUILD!!!!!

Welcome to the wonderful world of being an addict.  As has been stated here many times, a spare set of tuners or a "what if I'd..." has spawned many a new build.  It's a better habit than drinking or strippers!

Allow me to quote someone who knows what's better for me more than I do... "At least the kids and I can sell these if you die."

-Mark

 

[JimBeed]

Whats your neck like anyways that you ordered? is it a jazz bass headstock or p bass? .

Those are both the same headstock, just different nut widths.

Knew about the nut widths, but thought that the headstock was slightly smaller on the j bazz, obviously just an illusion from the nut or something

 

[BSAudio]

Look, the obvious solution here is NEW BASS BUILD!!!!!

Welcome to the wonderful world of being an addict.  As has been stated here many times, a spare set of tuners or a "what if I'd..." has spawned many a new build.  It's a better habit than drinking or strippers!

Allow me to quote someone who knows what's better for me more than I do... "At least the kids and I can sell these if you die."

-Mark

Yes! That is indeed a great solution but it doesn't solve my other problem.

I'm broke and my studio just closed.

Trust me, I've got it bad. I'm already planning J bass and tele bass builds that probably wont happen for years.

This bass is very important to me, my Dad bought it new when he was in high school and it was the first bass I ever played. I haven't been able to use it for years due to a badly warped and twisted neck (not my fault) and I really just want to do it right the first time rather than plan on replacing it later.

I realize in the grand scheme of things this is a minor issue but if theres a chance I could make this bass a little better and more playable I have to try.

 

[drewfx]

Honestly if you want to talk yourself into it being a big problem, of course it'll be a big problem for you.

If you don't think about what might have been, you will be more than happy with the neck you ordered, which will probably be fantastic.

Instead of worrying about it, just tell yourself that the steel will counteract the tonal differences between maple and canary resulting in a perfect vintage sound. Then enjoy it.

You have my attention, do you mean that a maple w/ steel will sound more like canary w/ steel? or do you think the steel rods will actually make the canary w/ steel sound more like a vintage maple neck?

And I wish it was that simple. Worrying about what might have been is my bread and butter.

What I mean is people can talk themselves into just about anything when it comes to tone.

And if you convince yourself steel is "inferior" in some entirely unproven way, largely based on someone else's conjecture, you will never, ever be happy with it. So why not talk yourself into something equally unproven, but positive instead?

Many of us are more than happy with Warmoth bass necks featuring the steel rods, and some would argue they are quite superior. And unless you did a (quite impossible) side by side blind comparison, you really have no way of knowing which one you would really prefer.

Yeah, it might be slightly heavier than graphite. But other than that, I don't see anything worth making a big deal over.

 

[stubhead]

I'd put it this way - I wouldn't buy a neck with graphite, if I can get the same neck with the steel rods. You will never have to worry about the neck of that bass becoming unplayable again, in fact you may only have to adjust the truss rod every decade or so once she settles in. The floppy-bass-neck-syndrome & the S-curve warpies was solved by steel, it's almost curious that Warmoth's going backwards. Are they offering the same warranty on the graphite necks?

 

[JimBeed]

Yes! That is indeed a great solution but it doesn't solve my other problem.

I'm broke and my studio just closed.

Trust me, I've got it bad. I'm already planning J bass and tele bass builds that probably wont happen for years.

This bass is very important to me, my Dad bought it new when he was in high school and it was the first bass I ever played. I haven't been able to use it for years due to a badly warped and twisted neck (not my fault) and I really just want to do it right the first time rather than plan on replacing it later.

I realize in the grand scheme of things this is a minor issue but if theres a chance I could make this bass a little better and more playable I have to try.

With what you have bought, i dont think you are going to have any need to replace it later on, and im sure you will be more than happy with the neck you have ordered, and will get many great years of playing out of it, till the day that one goes to  bass neck death row, but till that day im sure you will love that neck on your bass. as for any weight change between steel and graphite, it wont be that much, and your not always going to get a lighter neck due to the graphite im sure. Plus basses are heavier by nature, You will get used to any increase in weight.

 

[BSAudio]

What I mean is people can talk themselves into just about anything when it comes to tone.

And if you convince yourself steel is "inferior" in some entirely unproven way, largely based on someone else's conjecture, you will never, ever be happy with it. So why not talk yourself into something equally unproven, but positive instead?

Many of us are more than happy with Warmoth bass necks featuring the steel rods, and some would argue they are quite superior. And unless you did a (quite impossible) side by side blind comparison, you really have no way of knowing which one you would really prefer.

Yeah, it might be slightly heavier than graphite. But other than that, I don't see anything worth making a big deal over.

Personally I'd rather have something closer to a vintage neck because its for a vintage bass. Also in my experience I'd rather add sustain after the bass with a compressor. Its much harder to add tone. (impossible if you ask me) I almost exclusively play rock so I don't usually need an unnatural amount of sustain. I'd rather have a bass with a rich, complex tone and harmonic structure than a cleaner, punchier, longer sustaining bass. I realize a lot of people will disagree with me and they have good reason to but for my style and my application this is the way to go.

 

[Wyliee]

I'd put it this way - I wouldn't buy a neck with graphite, if I can get the same neck with the steel rods. You will never have to worry about the neck of that bass becoming unplayable again, in fact you may only have to adjust the truss rod every decade or so once she settles in. The floppy-bass-neck-syndrome & the S-curve warpies was solved by steel, it's almost curious that Warmoth's going backwards. Are they offering the same warranty on the graphite necks?

You might want to read the Truss Rod page.
http://www.warmoth.com/Bass/Necks/TrussRods.aspx

Replacing the vintage truss rod with the larger double expanding truss rod addressed the S-curves and warping.  And the same warranty is being offered.

Folks, this is not that different from Vintage Modern and Total Vintage necks versus the Warmoth Pro construction necks.  Some love the double expanding truss rod and the additional mass/stability it brings.  Some absolutely *hate* it and prefer the vintage single truss rod.  There are many different ways to build a quality neck with each having its own 'characteristics.'  Pick the one that you prefer and remember we all have our own preferences.

If/when I build another passive JBass, I will most likely go with the graphite.  But if/when I build another active 5'ver, it will have the steel rods.  Again, each has its own application.

 

[BSAudio]

I'd put it this way - I wouldn't buy a neck with graphite, if I can get the same neck with the steel rods. You will never have to worry about the neck of that bass becoming unplayable again, in fact you may only have to adjust the truss rod every decade or so once she settles in. The floppy-bass-neck-syndrome & the S-curve warpies was solved by steel, it's almost curious that Warmoth's going backwards. Are they offering the same warranty on the graphite necks?

As far as I know it still carries the same warranty. I'm pretty sure the graphite is just as strong as the steel or at least comparable.

 

[BSAudio]

If/when I build another passive JBass, I will most likely go with the graphite.  But if/when I build another active 5'ver, it will have the steel rods.  Again, each has its own application.

THIS! I totally agree, I think graphite will compliment the complexity and growl of passive basses while steel would still be better for more 'hi-fi 'ish active basses.