Grain filler

[UncleRick]

I have recently purchased a Roasted Swamp Ash body. I know I need grain filler. I'm planning on spraying nitro, but what should I use for a grain filler? Link to the product would be very helpful.

Thanks!!!

 

[stratamania]

I have no idea where in the world you are but here are a couple of examples of what you can use.

Grain Filler | Rustins

Is supplied as a paste, which is thinned with white spirit for use. It is applied to wood before finishing to fill the pores, preventing sinking of...

www.rustins.ltd

Neutral Thixotropic Grain Filler

Rothko and Frost

rothkoandfrost.com

 

[DuckBaloo]

I use the water-based grain filler these days (been buying Goodfilla). Water-based requires more work than the old oil-based stuff because it shrinks back more, but I don't have to worry about dangerous fumes and rags randomly bursting into flames.

Many people praise Z-pooxy, I plan to give it a try next time.

 

[NedRyerson]

I use the water-based grain filler these days (been buying Goodfilla). Water-based requires more work than the old oil-based stuff because it shrinks back more, but I don't have to worry about dangerous fumes and rags randomly bursting into flames.

Many people praise Z-pooxy, I plan to give it a try next time.

How do you get the stuff like Goodfilla or Timbermate to be actually workable? They've been this dried out (and smelly), hard blocks inside the container. I've read to add water to thin it out, but it's almost impossible to rehydrate and stir. Even if I carve out a small chunk of it and put it in another container, it's still like hard clay that doesn't want to mix very well.

 

[bagman67]

For Timbermate, crush the lump of clay before you add water. I have no experience with Goodfilla.

 

[Scott]

I have a strat warmoth body (ash/maple top) that I didn't grain fill. The grain read-thru had a nice effect. I did a dye job on it with a nitro finish. My inexperienced brain told me the grain filler would effect the dyeing process and i wasn't opposed to seeing grain on the finished product. The top was maple so the sealer filled any of the grain. There may be some downstream finishing pitfalls to skip the grain fill so proceed at your own risk. I did have an issue with the polishing compound getting caught in the end grain on the side of the body. I finished it in 2017 and I think there are still a few specs of compound that I couldn't get out.

Green is alcohol and colortone stain applied to bare wood, then many coats of vinyl sanding sealer. The black is colortone black stain and nitro:

 

[DuckBaloo]

How do you get the stuff like Goodfilla or Timbermate to be actually workable? They've been this dried out (and smelly), hard blocks inside the container. I've read to add water to thin it out, but it's almost impossible to rehydrate and stir. Even if I carve out a small chunk of it and put it in another container, it's still like hard clay that doesn't want to mix very well.

I put some in a mixing cup, add water, and stir, ...and stir, ...and stir. And, yes, very smelly. But, thankfully, not noxious fumes like the classic oil-based fillers.

If it's a an opaque finish, many builders just use thinned drywall compound.

 

[JPOL007]

I just finished a mahogany body using Solarez grain filler and it worked great. Used Solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer to do the clear coat. Incredibly happy with the results.

 

[Scott]

I just finished a mahogany body using Solarez grain filler and it worked great. Used Solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer to do the clear coat. Incredibly happy with the results.

Lookin great!
I was not aware of the Solarez U/V cure products. I am always on the lookout for options that are less toxic/less flammable/wont kill me sooner. I will definitely consider them. One of the reasons I love this forum.

 

[TimesNewRoman]

I second JPOL's endorsemsnt of solarrez grain filler. I'll never use anything else. First, there is NO SHRINKAGE which undo's the progress and requires multiple applications when anything with a carrier solvent (including water) is used. Two part epoxy shares that advantage but puts you in a race against time as it cures. The solarrez has infinite working time without starting to gel up. I did an application at night and cured in the sun 12 hours later. Take all the time you want to spread it perfect. Then 5 minutes in the sun and its ready to sand. And, it sands so nicely- powders up so quickly and evenly.

This awesome grainfiller is not to be confused with the top coat from the same manufacturer, the horribly named "I can't believe its not lacquer". This I do not recommend. Someone here described in detail an ordeal involving tiny fisheyes and I had the exact same problem.

Here is 2 fills on a koa lam top and 1 fill on a walnut neck. The tiny dots on the body top are artifacts- there are zero open pores and its ready for shellac.

 

[NedRyerson]

First, there is NO SHRINKAGE which [undoes] the progress and requires multiple applications when anything with a carrier solvent (including water) is used.

Ignoring the juvenile, middle-schooler urge to comment inappropriately , this exact reason is why I dislike working with Aqua-Coat. Seems like every time I try to sand down a layer, I'm just taking all of it off. I think after the 3rd or 4th application, I got tired of it and just resorted to "yeah, I totally meant for it to have that open-pore look. TOTALLY meant to do that."