C
Cederick
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Anybody know the difference between the 1996 and the one I linked to?
TonyFlyingSquirrel
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The only real difference is in the Bar Assembly.
The newer one has the round collar and the allen screw presses against it. The benefit is that the teflon bushing is very thick and will last a very long time.
The 1996 had a different bar assembly, mainly the collar housing, it squeezed from off at one side. It doesn't have as much teflon on the bushing, but still lasts a very long time, I just unscrew the allen screw to release the tension before removing the bar to put the guitar in its case. Even with the old style like on my guitar, it can last a very long time. The one in the pic has lasted me 17+ years without any parts being replaced, and that's with many hours per week of playing.
The newer one has the round collar and the allen screw presses against it. The benefit is that the teflon bushing is very thick and will last a very long time.
The 1996 had a different bar assembly, mainly the collar housing, it squeezed from off at one side. It doesn't have as much teflon on the bushing, but still lasts a very long time, I just unscrew the allen screw to release the tension before removing the bar to put the guitar in its case. Even with the old style like on my guitar, it can last a very long time. The one in the pic has lasted me 17+ years without any parts being replaced, and that's with many hours per week of playing.
C
Cederick
Guest
Ok, so I guess I can get that one I linked to and be sure it's all good 
wohooo!!! :toothy10:
Now I'm pretty set on start saving up for a Warmoth strat... with gotoh floyd :toothy12:
The Gotoh radius is 12" right? Will that work with a compound radius or should I go for the 12" radius? I can play with whatever so it doesn't really matter playwise, but the compound option is free of charge while the other costs a bit of money... Not much tho hehe
wohooo!!! :toothy10:Now I'm pretty set on start saving up for a Warmoth strat... with gotoh floyd :toothy12:
The Gotoh radius is 12" right? Will that work with a compound radius or should I go for the 12" radius? I can play with whatever so it doesn't really matter playwise, but the compound option is free of charge while the other costs a bit of money... Not much tho hehe
C
Cederick
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http://www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77&products_id=199
If I want a recessed cavity for the Gotoh Floyd, is this what I need? Is it shorter than the stock block?
If I want a recessed cavity for the Gotoh Floyd, is this what I need? Is it shorter than the stock block?
C
Cederick
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Anyone? ???
Cagey
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Cederick said:
If you're worried about the existing block being too tall for a recessed installation, don't. You'll be fine. If you're wondering if that brass piece will fit, I can't say. From the looks of it, it may limit your range a bit, though. I'm not convinced those blocks are everything they're hyped up to be, but I don't have any objective data to point to.
TonyFlyingSquirrel
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+1, it'll be fine.
My Gotoh sitting in my TFS6 is indeed recessed, with a recessed Trem Plate, and my body is only 1 5/8" thick, whereas the Warmoth bodies are 1 3/4" thick.
You'll be fine.
My Gotoh sitting in my TFS6 is indeed recessed, with a recessed Trem Plate, and my body is only 1 5/8" thick, whereas the Warmoth bodies are 1 3/4" thick.
You'll be fine.
C
Cederick
Guest
The guitar body I have (non-Warmoth) that I wanna rout for a Floyd is about 45mm. So is my Warmoth and just about every other guitar I have. With a few millimeters thicker or thinner
The OFR block 37 mm is and the Gotoh block is 41mm. That's quite a lot more isn't it?
So I really don't see how it could work!!! :sad1:
The OFR block 37 mm is and the Gotoh block is 41mm. That's quite a lot more isn't it?
So I really don't see how it could work!!! :sad1:
Cagey
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The difference between 37mm and 41mm is 4mm. So... quite a bit? I don't know. That's maybe the thickness of a pickguard, give or take a mm. How much space you got? 41mm is 4mm shorter than you say you have, so you'd think you'd be ok. You're going to have to measure something. It doesn't sound like a lot to me for that cavity, but if I was worried about it, I'd find some kind of references somewhere. A very perfunctory look tells you that there are many, many people using Floyds on a wide variety of guitars. It's tough to tell from here what the issues might be without some solid numbers.
C
Cederick
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But since it's recesssed wouldn't those 4 mm maybe be too long? that's what's bothering me
I don't know how low the bridge will be
that's what's bothering me I don't know how low the bridge will be
Fat Pete
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I can understand the concern. If the baseplate is 3.2mm and the block is 41mm, that leaves 0.25mm on a 44.45mm body if the top of the plate is exactly flush to the body - not a lot.
But... Try it. If it doesn't work, replacement blocks go for between $12 & $160(!) on ebay. Or is there an issue with the aftermarket blocks not fitting the Gotoh?
But... Try it. If it doesn't work, replacement blocks go for between $12 & $160(!) on ebay. Or is there an issue with the aftermarket blocks not fitting the Gotoh?
C
Cederick
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Yeah I have no idea, but I don't even know where to find one except that one I linked to a bit eariler...
C
Cederick
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If I order a neck with R3 (with mounting holes) routing will a Gotoh nut fit the holes?
stratamania
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Gotoh does in addition to the 40mm block a 36 or 33mm option.
For the nuts they do 41 or 43 mm. Those I think would be R2 or R3 size respectively.
For the nuts they do 41 or 43 mm. Those I think would be R2 or R3 size respectively.
C
Cederick
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But are the screws through the neck in the same position as the OFR nuts?
stratamania
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I have original Floyds but not the Gotoh version so I am unable to do a direct comparison. Try a google search for measurements. You may find as i did that the radius is different and not 10". If you go for a Gotoh locking trem you may need to stick to a Floyd nut.
I have been using Floyd Rose originals since 85, the original FR is very good, different to licensed Floyds which can vary in quality.
Gotoh make good stuff and I will be putting a non locking 510 trem on my upcoming build. I have tried the Gotoh locking on a Suhr, but it didn't feel better than an original floyd.
If I build a Warmoth, with locking trem it will be an original Floyd if it helps.
I have been using Floyd Rose originals since 85, the original FR is very good, different to licensed Floyds which can vary in quality.
Gotoh make good stuff and I will be putting a non locking 510 trem on my upcoming build. I have tried the Gotoh locking on a Suhr, but it didn't feel better than an original floyd.
If I build a Warmoth, with locking trem it will be an original Floyd if it helps.
TonyFlyingSquirrel
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Cederick said:
They're not always entirely uniform. When I worked there over 4 years ago, it was strongly recommended that if a Floyd Nut prep were being done on a neck, the best fit would be to have it prepped for the nut that was also purchased. If you're aren't getting the holes drilled all the way through the neck, then this may not be an issue.
If you are getting the mounting holes drilled through the neck, then it would stand to reason that it is being done with reference to the exact nut purchased from Warmoth.
Apparrently, at least back then, not all the Floyd nuts where uniform in the mounting holes area. Even though they're CNC'd, some of the comparisons of the same nut width would result in some of the mounting holes spaced further apart, while others were closer together. I've compared many OFR nuts that had the mounting holes at slightly different spacing.
Like I said, that was over 4 years ago when I worked there. Either way, I would strongly advise you to contact Warmoth directly as specifications & such may have changed since then.
C
Cederick
Guest
Ok I'll go with a OFR nut, I don't even have a Gotoh nut so I can just get a OFR one :hello2:
TonyFlyingSquirrel
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Good call, purchasing it from the same folks (Warmoth) that will measure & prep your neck for that particular nut will go a long ways towards an ideal setup.
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