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gibson slim taper specs

vtpcnk

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gibson wrote to me that the specs of their slim taper is .800 at 1st fret and .875 at 12th fret.

warmoth lists its standard thin at .800 at first fret and .850 at the 12th.

is it possible for anybody to confirm this (with a caliper) if they have a gibson with a slim taper neck and a warmoth standard thin.
 
Although I cannot confirm the measurements for you, I have a friend with a Les Paul that has the slim taper neck. It "feels" only slightly thicker than my ESP neck, which is .795" to .866" .
 
Production Gibsons are usually very close to their stated specs, give 0.010" either way. Custom Shop Gibsons are so wildly different that there's no point reading their neck specs at all. Warmoth's Standard Thin neck is definitely thinner all the way through than even the thinnest of Gibson CS slim taper necks. The Warmoth neck is a shade thinner than most fot he modern Fender necks and if anything seems to be a match for the ESP LTD H and MH Thin U.
 
It's also worth mentioning that the profile (or cross-section, or contour) makes a LOT of difference, more so than the thickness. To take it to ridiculous extremes, you could cut a square neck out of a length of wood that has the width, thickness and scale length dimensions to match what you're looking for, but the profile of the thing would make it unplayable.

You might want to have a look at this page - it describes and gives dimension to the various neck profiles Warmoth will cut for you.
 
I've got 2 60's profile gibsons and they're both within a couple hundreths of an inch of the specs you gave. That being said, Cagey's right about the feel of the contour. Standard thin Fender necks feel thicker. Not sure why, exactly, but they do.
 
Damon said:
I've got 2 60's profile gibsons and they're both within a couple hundreths of an inch of the specs you gave. That being said, Cagey's right about the feel of the contour. Standard thin Fender necks feel thicker. Not sure why, exactly, but they do.

They feel thicker than Warmoth? Or Gibson?
 
Street Avenger said:
They feel thicker than Warmoth? Or Gibson?

Both Warmoth Standard Thin and modern Fender Strat/Tele necks feel thicker than my Gibsons.
 
I played a Gibson slim taper a few weeks ago.  They are very close to the warmth standard thin.  Only those with calipers could tell the difference.
 
Damon said:
Street Avenger said:
They feel thicker than Warmoth? Or Gibson?

Both Warmoth Standard Thin and modern Fender Strat/Tele necks feel thicker than my Gibsons.

Isn't the Gibson more of a "D" shape or "U" shape, and the Warmoth and Fender necks a "C" shape?
Gibson necks have always felt thicker to me than my ESP necks, which are .795" to .866" .
 
DMRACO said:
I played a Gibson slim taper a few weeks ago.  They are very close to the warmth standard thin.  Only those with calipers could tell the difference.

Street Avenger said:
Isn't the Gibson more of a "D" shape or "U" shape, and the Warmoth and Fender necks a "C" shape?
Gibson necks have always felt thicker to me than my ESP necks, which are .795" to .866" .

It's the shape that's the difference. The 60's gibson has less of a shoulder (only word I can think of that makes sense). It's very similar thickness to the Fender/W St Thin if measured at the centerline of the neck, but it tapers faster from the center to the sides. It's not as drastic as a boatneck contour, but I can feel it when I play the two back to back.
 
Street Avenger said:
Isn't the Gibson more of a "D" shape or "U" shape, and the Warmoth and Fender necks a "C" shape?
Fender = C
Warmoth = U
Gibson = D

Not counting oddball soft V, asymmetrical necks, etc.
 
>Fender = C
>Warmoth = U
>Gibson = D

according to gibson their neck shape is C.

so if you want to exactly replicate a neck (say gibson slim taper) what exactly are the things you would measure on the neck?

appreciate the feedback.
 
There's not any one easy thing to measure, per se, since it's an analog shape. If you wanted to reproduce a neck's cross-section, or just compare one to many, then there are tools called "Profile Gauges" you can use for that. For example...

profilabtaster1.jpg

They come in different shapes and sizes, depending on what you're doing or working with. There are some choices you can review here.

Basically, you even out the comb, then press it against whatever form you want to duplicate/check. This moves the teeth out of the way until you have the pattern. Woodworkers often use them to duplicate old corner/edge molding designs when doing repair work.

 
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