Food coloring as a dye?

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I was researching dyes and found this listed as one of the options.
Can this be true? I never would have imagined seeing that but then again, I’m not. “Finish” guy normally. I tend to just go clear or farm it out. I can only imagine that some woods might absorb more like alder, while others like ash may take more to work in.

 

[NedRyerson]

I've also heard about it, but never really considered it beyond that cursory glance at some Random Internet Post or Blog™. I suppose from a practical POV, the only difference between food coloring and Trans-Tint would be whether one is edible or not.

(and I don't want to check if Trans-Tint is)

Chemical difference and behavior of said chemicals are different stories, of course.

Upon further study, there's a ton of conflicting anecdotal reports on effectiveness. Some say it fades fast, others argue that those first people suck at life and should just quit, then the first group comes back with some other snippy retort about their parentage, then nobody's talking about finishing guitars anymore, etc., etc.., etc. because Internet.™.

The coloring I've been doing has been with various blends of Trans-Tint in DNA, usually something like a 3:1 or 5:1 ratio of DNA to color. The green baritone I'm working on right now is a 5:3 ratio of yellow to green Trans-Tint and then a multiplier of 3x the total volume of dye of DNA as the solvent. Apply with blue paper shop towel, let dry, repeat as necessary, then shoot clear.

A wood that's known for taking dyes in a blotchy way like maple, I'll apply 2-3 coats of prestain conditioner.

All of this can be a hassle, but I kinda' find it therapeutic.

 

[Spud]

I was researching dyes and found this listed as one of the options.
Can this be true? I never would have imagined seeing that but then again, I’m not. “Finish” guy normally. I tend to just go clear or farm it out. I can only imagine that some woods might absorb more like alder, while others like ash may take more to work in.

Yes but its less predictable.

Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder - Household Wood Stains - Amazon.com

Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Powder - Household Wood Stains - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[stratamania]

I used tea to stain a Tele.

Post in thread 'Natural Ash Tele'

Jun 21, 2014

So welcome to the next installment...

In this episode we have sanding back grain filler. Staining, this time for real.  Flies, neighbors and freak gusts of wind...  so here is the last 3 days in a time capsule.

Here is the body after the grain filler dried after about 24 hours. A bit more left over in the odd spot than I had planned.

sandandsealer_1 by stratamania, on Flickr

After a fair amount of diligent and careful sanding up to 320 you can see some of the grain filler in this shot. It is a...

• stratamania

• 
• 

 

[Hagwood]

I messed around with it and would not recommend. Also played around with some Rit fabric dye and it wasn't bad.

I still prefer the Keda dyes, and they are inexpensive enough and readily available on Amazon.

 

[bagman67]

For coloring non-figured woods and deep-grained wood like ash, I have had good luck with Mixol pigments in DNA or a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and lacquer retarder. The pigment gives a much more satisfactory result than dye on mahogany in particular, in which case a dye tends to be overwhelmed by the darkness of the wood. At USD$7 per 20ml bottle, Mixol is cheaper than a lot of other options. As a pigment, it's going to have much bigger particles than a dye, so it does not bring out curly maple figure like a dye will. Anyway, hope this helps.

 

[Hagwood]

For coloring non-figured woods and deep-grained wood like ash, I have had good luck with Mixol pigments in DNA or a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and lacquer retarder. The pigment gives a much more satisfactory result than dye on mahogany in particular, in which case a dye tends to be overwhelmed by the darkness of the wood. At USD$7 per 20ml bottle, Mixol is cheaper than a lot of other options. As a pigment, it's going to have much bigger particles than a dye, so it does not bring out curly maple figure like a dye will. Anyway, hope this helps.

I may try that on my mahogany Meadowhawk neck, I still haven't decided what to do with it, but I know the Keda Dye does not do well on Mahogany. What kind of ratio for the Mixol and DNA to get it dark ?

 

[Spud]

I may try that on my mahogany Meadowhawk neck, I still haven't decided what to do with it, but I know the Keda Dye does not do well on Mahogany. What kind of ratio for the Mixol and DNA to get it dark ?

Just rub on beard for 2 hours.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Heading to a Rockler store in a bit to consult

 

[bagman67]

I may try that on my mahogany Meadowhawk neck, I still haven't decided what to do with it, but I know the Keda Dye does not do well on Mahogany. What kind of ratio for the Mixol and DNA to get it dark ?

In my experimentation, I just futzed until I liked what I saw. I wish I could be more specific.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Got some mixol to mix in with some wipe on poly for the first few coats of subtle green in before I move on to just purely clear wipe on poly.

 

[Spud]

Got some mixol to mix in with some wipe on poly for the first few coats of subtle green in before I move on to just purely clear wipe on poly.

now your talkin!

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Dye process completed, scuff sanded, now just a few more coats of the Poly on its own, then level sanding, wet sanding with each grit higher, then on to buff. Perhaps buffing by next week. After I finish wet sanding at 8k grit, I’m gonna let it sit a week while we have some warmer weather to cure a bit more before buffing.

 

[Hagwood]

Dye process completed, scuff sanded, now just a few more coats of the Poly on its own, then level sanding, wet sanding with each grit higher, then on to buff. Perhaps buffing by next week. After I finish wet sanding at 8k grit, I’m gonna let it sit a week while we have some warmer weather to cure a bit more before buffing.

Nice. How did you like the way the Mixol worked with the wipe on poly ?

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Effortless, my new norm for poly tints.

Truth be told, I only finish in Poly because I don’t consider myself a paint person.

 

[bagman67]

Would love to see a photo when you've got the time, Tony. I always love your work.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Scuffing…

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

On the other project.
Pic one, Born 1995.

Pic two, expected fall winter 2025/2026…

Pic one, the truss rod cover was inspired by the tailpiece ornament of the Ibanez Paul Stanley Signature guitars and is sized to accommodate the locking nut.

Pic two is from a trace of the cover in pic one, with 1/4” added to the bottom to compensate for the lack of a locking nut. This may not be the final cover used for the Gen 2 version. I am a stickler when it comes to symmetry, so I may reach out to have someone make me a routing template with all radius’s and measurements exact, plus, I think that I would like the bevel added to the dimensions seen here. I need to inquire of some skilled folk of their availability to do so.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

No more dye, just clear wipe on poly.
Just can’t seem to get the iPad to edit the photos to fit the posting limits.

 

[bagman67]

Scuffing…

It's a moral and ethical obligation you are satisfying there, Tony. The world needs more green telecasters!

See, e.g.,

Thread 'transparent green on mahogany'

Jun 21, 2011

Howdy, all -

I just picked up a body on ebay on a minimum bid - and now i have to finish the dang thing.

What I'd like to do is replicate this finish:

As you can see, the mahogany is a one-piece body, and has a nicely irregular grain that I think will show nicely through a green stain.  The question is:  What should I use to achieve the green stain?  I don't want to get a muddy finish, but I don't want to run the risk of losing that nice streaking...

• bagman67
• Replies: 51
• Forum: DIY Finishing

(in which I catalog my adventures in learning about the mixol-in-thinner stain)

and

Thread 'The 'Hog - Green mahogany Tele with 2x P90's'

Jan 1, 2012

Aloha, boys and girls:


At long last, The 'Hog is complete.  This is a mahogany body from mattswoodworking-2008 on eBay.  The body is very nice, but had some issues with getting the neck to fit correctly. 


It's coupled to a Warmoth canary standard-thin neck with an ebony board and MOP dots.  Fretted with stainless 6115s.


Body is loaded with TroubledTreble's Roadhouse True Blue P90's, which are delicious, thank you very much.  Nickel hardware, including some very attractive locking Grovers anchoring the strings at the  north end.  Bridge is a stainless Hipshot...

• bagman67
• Replies: 12
• Forum: Tele-Style Guitars

(finished product)