Floyd Rose shims

[jww54]

Does The shims raise the string  distance from the back bridge area when the stings are fretted when placed under the bridge saddles ?
I'm getting buzz where the fingerboard strats to flatten out.Mainly high and low e, b and and A.
It's driving me crazy. Some help me . Looks to me the fretting out is from the upper register.

Thanks.

 

[CD]

You might just want to raise the height of the entire bridge before you shim individual saddles and see if that helps out.

 

[Crappy]

The radius of the floyd rose is set at 10" You will have to shim the saddles abit. you need to get a radius at the bridge of about 18.5"
So it will match it's way down the compound neck from the nut to the bridge.
I have found with the compound necks you will have to raise the high and low E about .014 of a inch and the A & B .007 of a inch
Then you can set the height of the bridge and you should have the same string height on all the strings at the 12th fret

 

[Funky Phil]

It's a good idea to remove the factory fitted shim on Floyd Rose Original trems.
This is under the B, G, D and A strings.
It stops the aftermarket shims sitting on the base plate properly.
Reassemble the unit, restring, and set the desired action (at the 12th fret) for the G and D strings, using the pivot posts.
Then measure the action (at the 12th fret) for each string.
The shims (Allparts BP 2214-001) are about 0.007" (0.18mm) thick.
To raise the action (12th fret) by 0.0035", you will need one shim.
To raise it by 0.007", you will need two shims, and so on...
Doing it his way means that you will get the action right on every string.

 

[Crappy]

That was the one step I forgot to put in my post was to removing the factory fitted shim.
Must have been a brainfart on my part as it's the first thing I do on every floyd I install.