Floyd Rose NO FINE TUNER help

faisalbaig

New member
Messages
12
Hi guys! I built 2 warmoths, a strat and a tele simultaneously with the Floyd No Fine Tuner bridge. All seems to be set up nicely; but the guitars do not hold tuning well! Schaller locking tunes on both!
I am getting frustrated!
Can anyone advise what body modifications i would have to do to install a Gotoh 510 on both ?
Or maybe some advice on the NFT setup ?
Willing to pay a luthier if they are willing to make a video tutorial!
Thanks
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,232
What kind of nut do you have?

Are the locking tuners staggered?

What is the radius of the neck and have you shimmed the bridge to an appropriate radius?

 

faisalbaig

New member
Messages
12
Hi there!

Sorry, should have posted details:

Graphtech Tusq XL Earvana Nut on both guitars.
Schaller Locking Tuners but not staggered.
No string tree.
1-11/16 Nut Width, 10-16' Compound, Standard Thin on both necks.

I didn't understand the shimming part you mentioned. The studs were installed by Warmoth.

Thank you so much!
 

rauchman

Senior member
Messages
771
faisalbaig said:
Hi there!

Sorry, should have posted details:

Graphtech Tusq XL Earvana Nut on both guitars.
Schaller Locking Tuners but not staggered.
No string tree.
1-11/16 Nut Width, 10-16' Compound, Standard Thin on both necks.

I didn't understand the shimming part you mentioned. The studs were installed by Warmoth.

Thank you so much!

I did a build recently using a neck that came with the Graphtech nut.  I had it replaced by recommendation of a local luthier and he cut me a custom Delrin nut.  Not sure if it's the quality of how he cut it, the material itself or both, but using a Gotoh 510 trem, it's the most stable non locking setup I have.  I have zero experience with the Earvana nut, but I'd guess that's the place to start with regarding tuning stability.

And yes, for your setup, use staggered tuners.  Otherwise the break angle for the strings with the longest distance from nut to tuner (on a right handed Strat neck, the E and B strings) struggle with keeping enough tension and buzzing can be expected.

I think what Stratamania is referring to for shimming is the radius of the bridge itself.  I'm not super familiar with FR setups, but I believe the stock radius for their bridge is 10".  I think you can either remove or replace the shims under the D & G string saddles to give a flatter radius.  Even if you get to a 12" radius (which I think is achieved by removing the shims under the D & G string saddles on the bridge), that would better align to the 10-16" radius of the fretboard.

All in all....

Staggered locking tuners on a straight headstock (meaning not a tiltback headstock)
Precisely cut nut
Take out the shims under the D&G saddles to get a slightly flatter radius

Also, do you have the bridge floating/decked parallel to the body?
Do you have the bridge at an even height between the 2 posts?
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,232
I would recommend staggered locking tuners.

An Earvana Graphtech nut can work well, but it maybe needs a little fine adjustment with some nut files for string height and to make sure there are no potential pinch points (especially if using heavier strings) Also get something like Big Bends Nut Sauce. You wont need much.

Shims I am referring to radius but an NFT has no shims to remove you need to add some. See next link.

https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=30781.msg432981#msg432981

The NFT should be set to float and sit about parallel with the body. If it is not you need to adjust the springs to get it to balance properly with the string tension when it is in tune.  See next link,


https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=29622.msg418427#msg418427

 
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