Floyd NFT and Schaller Vintage Compatibility Questions

johnnyj

Active member
Messages
28
Hi folks,

i am thinking about ordering a new build in which i would like to try out the Floyd NFT. Unfortunately, I read a some bad things about the NFT and would be very glad to hear some first hand experiences from you before taking a wrong decision. I have these questions in my mind i couldnt find so far answered:

1. Is the floyd nft only usable with the wood screw in bolts or is it also compatible with the normal floyd studs? additional question: did you use both bolt systems and noticed a tonal difference?
2. when ordering from wartmoth the off menu nft recess option, do they also insert the studs for me even if i cannot buy the tremolo from them (not listed in their page)?
3. regarding the knife edges: did you experience edges wearing out at the nft? any other quality issues at the nft that you encountered?
4. is the nft coming with a 37mm block by standard? this is unfortunaltey not listed in the specs.
5. i read that the final guthrie version is different from what we can buy as floyd nft. can anybody tell me what is different?
6. can you give me some insights about the mechanic of the arm-baseplate connection? is it a nut with some plastic around the arm endpoint in the screw or is it metal on metal? screw at bottom and screw at the side for adjustment? are there any noises when moving the arm or is the arm perfectly fluid also after some playing months? except the gotoh and wilkinson by gotoh i found so many trems have this as a weak point, so i am wondering if the nft is a step back here?
7. did you experience any tuning issues with the unit where you isolated the issue to be somewhere in the tremolo (e.g. having perfect saddle, lock tuners etc.)?
8. i would like to have a very flat shredding neck with 12-16 or maybe 15 or 16 straight radius, will the nft be compatible?
9. regarding a fallback option: in case i dont like the nft, will i be able to swap it for the schaller vintage? i had this unit before and found it good (except of the arm nut). it seems that the major difference in the spacings is the stud spacing of 74 (nft) vs 74,3 (schaller). do the 0,3mm matter and ruin the stability? did anybody of you fitted both tremolos in one guitar without changing studs? and did anybody who went for the recess nft route use this route for the schaller vintage so far?
10. what is your overall satisfaction with the nft?

sorry for this big wall of text, but all inputs on these questions would really help me out.

best
johnny
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,208
Welcome to the forum.

1. Is the floyd nft only usable with the wood screw in bolts or is it also compatible with the normal floyd studs? additional question: did you use both bolt systems and noticed a tonal difference?

I have not noticed any detriment to tone using studs and inserts. Warmoth only offer the NFT rout with studs and inserts.

2. when ordering from wartmoth the off menu nft recess option, do they also insert the studs for me even if i cannot buy the tremolo from them (not listed in their page)?
Yes they will install them. You would place an order for the Floyd studs and inserts, and there is a charge of I think $10 to have them inserted for you.

3. regarding the knife edges: did you experience edges wearing out at the nft? any other quality issues at the nft that you encountered?
None whatsoever.

4. is the nft coming with a 37mm block by standard? this is unfortunaltey not listed in the specs.

Yes

5. i read that the final guthrie version is different from what we can buy as floyd nft. can anybody tell me what is different?

It is different. Guthrie talks about it on a recent YouTube video. Mainly the arm I think but I recommend getting a Red Bishop arm and replacing the original arm.

6. can you give me some insights about the mechanic of the arm-baseplate connection? is it a nut with some plastic around the arm endpoint in the screw or is it metal on metal? screw at bottom and screw at the side for adjustment? are there any noises when moving the arm or is the arm perfectly fluid also after some playing months? except the gotoh and wilkinson by gotoh i found so many trems have this as a weak point, so i am wondering if the nft is a step back here?
It is like the early arm fittings on Floyd Roses with a nylon type washer, see above, I suggest a Red Bishop.

7. did you experience any tuning issues with the unit where you isolated the issue to be somewhere in the tremolo (e.g. having perfect saddle, lock tuners etc.)?
No.

8. i would like to have a very flat shredding neck with 12-16 or maybe 15 or 16 straight radius, will the nft be compatible?
No, not without some additional work as the NFT is a 10" radius. If you want to use it with a flatter or compound radius neck, you need to shim the saddles.
9. regarding a fallback option: in case i dont like the nft, will i be able to swap it for the schaller vintage? i had this unit before and found it good (except of the arm nut). it seems that the major difference in the spacings is the stud spacing of 74 (nft) vs 74,3 (schaller). do the 0,3mm matter and ruin the stability? did anybody of you fitted both tremolos in one guitar without changing studs? and did anybody who went for the recess nft route use this route for the schaller vintage so far?
The Schaller vintage would retrofit the studs, but the NFT has a wider baseplate and therefore recess, then an OFR and also a Schaller vintage. So the Schaller vintage would fit but you would have a gap at the sides.

10. what is your overall satisfaction with the nft?

I am very happy with the NFT.

Please note also if using a pickguard you need to request one for the NFT as a standard tremolo or Floyd bridge cut is not compatible.

Take a look also at the Similar threads suggestions and also here is a link to a build I did using an NFT which will give you more information with lots of photos etc...

 
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johnnyj

Active member
Messages
28
wow, thanks for your detailed answers, they really help! just some follow ups:

could you tell me a bit more what led you to chose the aftermarket arm? did the original one make noises?
and regarding the shims: what shims did you order that fitted those saddles?

is the nft recessment cave in your black cherry done by warmoth directly or did you do it on your own?

your block looks very heavy. can you still divebomb with that strat so deep that the strings end loosely on the fretboard?

your pictures gave me a good insight in this unit. i wondered also if there are maybe some replacement screws available (the black ones in the back) to compensate the different setting of the three positioning holes (to have a more clear line in the end).

it is really great to hear that you think the schaller would retrofit. i wouldnt bother a bit of too wide caving but it is good to know you have another option if things turn our not good. i guess i will give the nft a try once i accepted the fact that i obviously have to pay for another warmoth guitar. :)
 

stratamania

Senior member
Messages
9,208
could you tell me a bit more what led you to chose the aftermarket arm? did the original one make noises?
No it did not make noises but I just swapped it out before I used it as the Red Bishop is an improvement over the original. I had a couple of the originals on Floyd OFRs from the 80s and ended up swapping those eventually.

and regarding the shims: what shims did you order that fitted those saddles?

That should be documented in the build thread. If not, probably 0.15 mm thick.

is the nft recessment cave in your black cherry done by warmoth directly or did you do it on your own?

The cavities, recess and body was done by Warmoth.

your block looks very heavy. can you still divebomb with that strat so deep that the strings end loosely on the fretboard?

I can lower it enough for me, but the original block is perfectly usable and would give you perhaps a little more range.

your pictures gave me a good insight in this unit. i wondered also if there are maybe some replacement screws available (the black ones in the back) to compensate the different setting of the three positioning holes (to have a more clear line in the end).

Not sure what you are asking here. The original screws work as expected, the positioning holes are there to enable intonation. It is not meant to follow a line. Any intonated guitar will have a stagger to the saddle.

Unless you mean the string lock screws. If you wanted those in a line, I think that would not add anything useful.
 
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johnnyj

Active member
Messages
28
yes i meant the string lock screws, and you are right, it would not add anything useful. thanks for the additional info.
 
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