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First Warmoth Project - Flying V in Cordovan

No - but you'd also have good results from other, more readily available synthetic/polymer products at the local autozone. 
 
I'd be interested to read the entire Zaino process as applied to guitar finishes.  E.g., do you use the ZFX accelerator, etc.?  Have you posted that anywhere?

 
I use the accelerator for the initial 4 or so coats. After that u don't need it since you won't be layering it. Really easy to apply. 
 
You can layer Z2 and Z8 for building up your initial coats.  After that, I use Z8 after everytime I handle the guitar.  I apply a coat or two of Z2 on a monthly basis and hit the covered pickups, bridges, and screws; it helps prevent them from corroding.  Way overkill, but I'm like this with my car, too.  I enjoy it, though. 
 
Just a few more updates.  This is about 18 coats in on the cap, 14 on the back and sides (which were grain filled).  Oddly, the cordovan color seems to be fading in the open field areas, rather than darkening, with successive coats of Tru Oil.  From some angles, the field looks almost natural.  While it's not precisely what I was going for (I wanted a bit more of the deep purple/red cordovan color), and while the days and days of work I put in on the dye job might not have paid off, I have to say it looks nice.

I'm wondering how it will mate with the pau ferro fretboard, though.  They (the body and the board) might be a bit to similar in overall color tone.  If that happens, sometime down the road I'll probably swap this neck for one with a maple or ebony fingerboard (i.e., go way light or way dark to get some contrast) and do another body for this neck.  That would be either (i) after I save up some serious money, or (ii) immediately before my wife divorces me.


















Another dozen coats (so 6 days) and I'll let it cure, then head to the final sand/buff/polish.  Time to start picking out knobs and fiddly bits. 

 
Gorgeous!  Let her dry a long time.  It will not polish up if it's not fully cured. Just stunning so far. Amber top hats??
 
I agree with the black and the knurled barrel style knob, but those might be a little too gaudy for a top like that.

Be aware that if you do choose to use that type of knob, those inlays are glued in with superglue and it doesn't work well. They really should use epoxy for that. I've had it happen to me twice, and in a surprisingly short period of time after installing them.
 
Cagey said:
I agree with the black and the knurled barrel style knob, but those might be a little too gaudy for a top like that.

Be aware that if you do choose to use that type of knob, those inlays are glued in with superglue and it doesn't work well. They really should use epoxy for that. I've had it happen to me twice, and in a surprisingly short period of time after installing them.

I like their Celtic knot knobs, too.  I haven't been able to find a picture of the black ones, though.  I'd like to know whether the pattern on top is a contrasting color (like the black-on-gold here), or whether they are just solid black.

http://www.beyondeleven.com/Q-Parts-Metal-Dome-Style-Guitar-Knob-Celtic-Weave-p/q-parts-metal-knob-celtic-weav.htm
 
That would probably be better than the first one you picked, but it's still a bit much in my opinion. You're attempting to make a patterned tie look good on a patterned shirt. You want solids on patterns, and vice-versa.

If it was me, I'd want a nice, conservative part that matches the rest of the hardware and doesn't distract the eye or take anything away from that beautiful complex top you have. In the interest of keeping the "edgy" look a Flying V implies, the flat top barrel-type Tele knob would probably be the thing to use.

FTK1B.jpg

It's a nice, practical, unassuming knob. Plus, they're a third the price of the fancy stuff.
 
Yeah, the price is a significant factor.  Turns out those q-Parts knobs are $12 each, plus shipping.

I do wear patterned ties with patterned shirts, though.  You just need to make sure the patterns are in a different scale.

 
A few more update pics.  These were taken dry before this morning's coat of Tru Oil.  Sorry about the focus on the outside pics--I don't know why my phone wouldn't focus, but that's a good representation of where the color's at.














I'm about 26 coats in on the cap and the neck, about 22 in on the back.  I think maybe 8 more coats and I'll let it cure.  I need to work out an exact process for the final sanding/polishing phase.


 
OK, I think I'm done (finally) with the Tru Oil.  The top has about 34 coats, and the back has about 30.  Now I'll let it cure for 3 weeks or so.  I'd love a pointer to a step-by-step description of the final sanding/polishing/buffing process.

 
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