First Warmoth Project - Flying V in Cordovan

[fdesalvo]

OK I can't comment on the grain fill/sanding bit, however -

If you are finding glossy spots, you simply need to keep applying.  Since you are going for a gloss finish, you need to keep going and keep the coats as thin as humanly possible. 

 

[2ManyShoes]

OK I can't comment on the grain fill/sanding bit, however -

If you are finding glossy spots, you simply need to keep applying.  Since you are going for a gloss finish, you need to keep going and keep the coats as thin as humanly possible.

Do you keep the coats thin by pressing a bit harder and/or rubbing to stretch a smaller amount of oil over a larger surface?  Or do you press gently and control the thickness by limiting the amount of oil on the applicator?

 

[fdesalvo]

People will tell you the thinner the better.  In this case, using your fingers is probably best.  It will get gummy quickly as it dries, but this is the nature of the finish.  A few more drops will allow you to blen in the tacky edge with the next pass.  Avoid sanding between coats unless there are nibs in the finish, as it's way easy to sand through. 

On my last few coats of the neck, I "went for broke" and used heavy coats - but with this technique, I'd only do one side at a time, as hanging it may result in drips.  My logic was that I could wet sand any uneveness or lap marks once the finish was thick enough and that proved to be the case.  I found that the stroke marks flattened out for the most part.  I hesitate to recommend this, as it was my personal experience and maye other factors weighed in and influenced the outcome, which I found desireable.  I have never seen application techniques which recommended doing it this way!

 

[2ManyShoes]

Last night's coat of oil.  Starting to get some sheen on the cap.

 

[fdesalvo]

Awesome. Keep going haha.

 

[2ManyShoes]

Just a progress report.  Took these pics dry this morning.  I'm about 10 coats in on the cap and neck (8 in on the back because of grain-filling) and with the warmer weather (it was 80 here yesterday) I've moved to two coats a day, about 12 hours apart.  Starting to get some thickness to the finish.  It's  a little orange-peely in places, from some angles.  I'm hoping the final sanding and polishing will smooth it out completely.






I thought it would be fun to use up some maroon-dyed tung oil I had left over from my last build by staining the pickup cavities.  Of course, I got a thumbprint on the body while doing it, which I had to sand off.

 

[Cagey]

That's moving along nicely. Starting to actually look like cordovan. I was wondering at first.

 

[2ManyShoes]

That's moving along nicely. Starting to actually look like cordovan. I was wondering at first.

Thanks.  Yeah, the color is a bit baffling.  It was too cordovan to begin with, but I might have backed off a tad bit too far.  It's a brownish color to begin with, and the tung oil takes it further in that direction.  After the first few coats of oil, it did match a pair of cordovan shoes I have almost exactly.  Now it's trending brown again.

It also looks completely different from various angles, and wildly different with the flash on vs. off.  (I posted a comparison a few days ago.) 

 

[Cagey]

Even when it's cloudy, sunlight cures most photo lighting ills. Plus, it generally allows for much higher shutter speeds, so motion blur is less of a problem. And in the case of phone cameras or low-end point & shoot units, the noise level is dramatically reduced so the results don't look like newsprint. Last but certainly not least, you get the best color rendition.

 

[fdesalvo]

Looking great.  The orange peel will go away with wet sanding.  I'd invest in a micromesh set.  I'd continue building a few more coats up top.

Just a progress report.  Took these pics dry this morning.  I'm about 10 coats in on the cap and neck (8 in on the back because of grain-filling) and with the warmer weather (it was 80 here yesterday) I've moved to two coats a day, about 12 hours apart.  Starting to get some thickness to the finish.  It's  a little orange-peely in places, from some angles.  I'm hoping the final sanding and polishing will smooth it out completely.









I thought it would be fun to use up some maroon-dyed tung oil I had left over from my last build by staining the pickup cavities.  Of course, I got a thumbprint on the body while doing it, which I had to sand off.

 

[2ManyShoes]

I have a Micromesh set, although this will be the first time I use it.  I actually have a couple of questions about the final sanding/polishing phase.

1.  Do you work with the grain, or in circles?

2.  I plan on sanding wet.  What is the best liquid to use?  I've heard everything from soapy water to more Tru Oil.

 

[fdesalvo]

I went in circles, but there are some that go with the grain.  Make up a lil' soapy water and keep the micromesh pads wet and constantly rinse them to prevent loading of the paper.  Some people wet sand using to to act as a grain filler.  Be careful as you near the edges of the body headstock and these areas are prone to sand-through.

I have a Micromesh set, although this will be the first time I use it.  I actually have a couple of questions about the final sanding/polishing phase.

1.  Do you work with the grain, or in circles?

2.  I plan on sanding wet.  What is the best liquid to use?  I've heard everything from soapy water to more Tru Oil.

 

[bagman67]

And use a firm foam rubber sanding block.

 

[fdesalvo]

^^ yep - comes with the micromesh kit  :icon_thumright:

I can't stress enough that you must build up many coats before you wet sand.  Once you hit the deck and work your way up a few grades of micromesh with the foam block, towel dry the surface and look across it at an angle.  You should see a mostly dull surface with some shiny spots randomly scattered about.  These are your low spots.  If you continue leveling the finish to reach these low spots, you might have thinned out the finish by a great degree, so really layer on those top coats.

 

[2ManyShoes]

Yeah, I always use a block (I have several in different shapes and sizes).  I'm planning on a minimum of 30 coats.

 

[fdesalvo]

Nice.  I had about 8 coats on my neck and managed to san through the head stock on a few places near the edge.  You'll be fine.  The micromesh will take you all the way up to a very nice gloss - just shy of swirl free. 

 

[2ManyShoes]

While I'm at it, I have three more questions.

1.  How long do you let the body and neck cure before the final sanding/polishing?

2.  After Micromesh, what sort of finishing compound do you all recommend?  Preferably something generally available at woodworking stores, so I won't have to send off to StewMac and pay their @#*%ing shipping fees.

3.  Do you recommend wax (carnauba) as a final step, assuming that the finish is thick enough that there won't be touch-ups down the road?

 

[fdesalvo]

I'd let it cure a couple of weeks.  The rule of thumb is actually the rule of nose - if you can still smell the TO, it ain't dry.

Most people use a very fine 3M product like 3M Perfect it.  Any Autozone or Pepboys will have what you need.

I use Zaino products - again, use what you would on your vehicle.  I don't like the protection that carnauba - or any wax offers, so I always go synthetic when I can. 

While I'm at it, I have three more questions.

1.  How long do you let the body and neck cure before the final sanding/polishing?

2.  After Micromesh, what sort of finishing compound do you all recommend?  Preferably something generally available at woodworking stores, so I won't have to send off to StewMac and pay their @#*%ing shipping fees.

3.  Do you recommend wax (carnauba) as a final step, assuming that the finish is thick enough that there won't be touch-ups down the road?

 

[2ManyShoes]

What's the name of the Zaino product?

 

[fdesalvo]

I use Z-2 and Z-8.  You will not have a problem with finish wear if you use these products.  They will also greatly enhance the depth of your finish well beyond the appearance of your polished clear.