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First Build Questions

Aria

Newbie
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15
Hi All,

I am building a strat type guitar, with a rear rout though.

They have three options for side jack, which one is most common?

Also, I plan to a get Floyd Rose. I want a standard width neck. There are some option R3 R4 R5 -- which one do I use?

Thanks,
Ash
 
"standard width neck" isn't as standard as you'd hope. 

Here's from the Warmoth page on String Nuts:
R-2 = 1-5/8" Nut-Width
* R-3 = 1-11/16" Nut-Width Narrow (Essentially, this nut is the 1 11/16" width, but the spread of the strings is pulled in resembling the spread found on a 1 5/8" nut. )
R-4 = 1-11/16" Nut-Width Wide
R-5 = 1-3/4" Nut-Width

R3 & L3 nuts work well with necks that have a 1 11/16" nut width and that are also bound. They are also popular with players wishing for a little more fret margin so as not to bend the strings beyond the fret ends.
Both necks I've gotten from Warmoth have been 1-11/16"  Eddie Van Halen likes the 1-5/8.  It all depends on playing style, feel, and hand size really.

Side jacks are totally up to you, here's the link to them: http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/SidejackOptions.aspx
 
Whether you use the electro socket jack, football jack plate, or rectanglular plate, get the 7/8" side jack hole.  The 1/2" side jack hole is for that 1/2" cylinder looking jack.  For whatever reason, it always requires wood removal modification.  The 3/4" jack hole, I don't know what that's for because it's too big or too small for either of the other options.
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
Whether you use the electro socket jack, football jack plate, or rectanglular plate, get the 7/8" side jack hole.  The 1/2" side jack hole is for that 1/2" cylinder looking jack.  For whatever reason, it always requires wood removal modification.  The 3/4" jack hole, I don't know what that's for because it's too big or too small for either of the other options.
Tele jack. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
Whether you use the electro socket jack, football jack plate, or rectanglular plate, get the 7/8" side jack hole.  The 1/2" side jack hole is for that 1/2" cylinder looking jack.  For whatever reason, it always requires wood removal modification.  The 3/4" jack hole, I don't know what that's for because it's too big or too small for either of the other options.


I think the 3/4" hole option mimics the Gibson hole  - but I agree the 7/8" hole is more adaptable, and thus preferable.
 
I think the Tele jack is 7/8 because I recently replaced the standard Tele "cup" on a friend's with an electro socket.  I don't think a standard jack even fits in the 3/4",hole.  It is the source of so much confusion and "this won't fit" on the forum, it should be an off the menu option.
 
Anything will work with the 7/8" hole. Electrosocket, square plate, football plate... doesn't matter. I'm not sure why it's even an option, although there may be some "vintage correct" anal retentive types out there who must have the diameter of whatever Leo's sharpest drill bit was on stage on certain days.
 
Warmoth recommends the 3/4" hole for the football jack on a strat. So I got it for my strat. And yes, once it's in, you can't put a plug in it. Had to get in there with a dremel. Stupid.
 
You have to be careful when using a football plate on a 7/8" hole as there's little room for error, but it'll cover and you have a hole you can deal with that won't interfere with your jack or wiring. Square plates are easy, and I've replaced my Electrosockets with one plate or the other. I like the appearance of the things, but they're just not as practical as they look. I've never used the cup sockets, but I imagine they're ok, in a pointless kind of way.
 
The cup sockets are a pain in the arse to fit, but they make up for that by being an even bigger pain in the arse to use.

I just made a tele. I might switch it to a square plate. I'm not sure what the benefit of an electro socket over a square plate is: I think maybe one benefit is if you retrofit one to a tele, you can switch it back again to sell it. Another is that it still looks like a standard tele from a cursory glance.

If you don't care about either of those things, is there a benefit?
 
I've used 2 football jacks on j-basses and installed 4 electro sockets on my more previous builds and retrofitted an electro socket on a Tele cup.  The cup likes to spin and you can never quite get it tight enough.  The football jacks, you always have to bend them to fit the radius of what they're going on.  The electro socket, being flat, has gaps when putting on a round edge, but I still like it the most.
 
Jumble Jumble said:
The cup sockets are a pain in the arse to fit, but they make up for that by being an even bigger pain in the arse to use.

I just made a tele. I might switch it to a square plate. I'm not sure what the benefit of an electro socket over a square plate is: I think maybe one benefit is if you retrofit one to a tele, you can switch it back again to sell it. Another is that it still looks like a standard tele from a cursory glance.

If you don't care about either of those things, is there a benefit?

The Electrosocket gives the impression that it'll be easier to use by self-centering the plug while you're trying to hit it blindly by feel, but that's not the reality. You have to mount the jack to it in such a way that the sloped sides of the mounting flange only lead to the plug hitting the sides of the jack, rather than be guided into the jack. If the jack is mounted deep enough so the sides act as a guide, then only certain plug ends will actually plug in and stay put. That's NFG. Then, regardless of how you mount the jack, you can't use a 90° plug if you'd prefer. So, with an Electrosocket, about 75% or better of the cords out there won't work for you. That's also NFG. Being able to connect an electric guitar to something that will amplify it is fundamental requirement of the thing.

Square plates are more or less foolproof, but you need the room to install it. Some body edges may not be thick enough for the thing.

Football plates work in all cases, although as STDC points out, you may have to recurve them in some situations..

7/8" jack holes work in all cases.
 
Cagey said:
Then, regardless of how you mount the jack, you can't use a 90° plug if you'd prefer. So, with an Electrosocket, about 75% or better of the cords out there won't work for you. That's also NFG. Being able to connect an electric guitar to something that will amplify it is fundamental requirement of the thing.

MoonriseKingdom.jpg
Cagey, "I love you, but you don't know what you're talking about."


I've had no problem using Electrosocket jacks with 90 degree cables.  If it was a problem, I wouldn't use them, the Electrosocket that is.  The trick is to halfway install it enough to get the screws into the body then screw the jack the rest of the way out.


My Butterscotch Tele:
Electroscoket-1.jpg

...with Livewire 90 degree cable:
ElectroscoketLivewire-1.jpg

...with Mogami 90 degree cable:
ElectroscoketMogami-1.jpg


My Iceman Bass and Buck Owens Tele with Livewire 90 degree cable:
ElectrosocketIceman.jpg


ElectrosocketTele.jpg


My latest P-bass with Livewire 90 degree cable.
P-12.jpg
 
I'm surprised to see that, but you do have the jack sticking way out of the mounting flange, which defeats its design intent. But, it's still attractive so I don't suppose it matters. If it works for you, then you're good to go.
 
Cagey said:
I'm surprised to see that, but you do have the jack sticking way out of the mounting flange, which defeats its design intent. But, it's still attractive so I don't suppose it matters. If it works for you, then you're good to go.

What design intent?  Is it supposed to be flush?  There are no directions or pictures of a suggested, finished install.  Even a straight cable couldn't stay in if it weren't sticking out a bit.  It is funnel shaped afterall.  There's the overhang and jacket of the cable.  Even when installing a jack on a flat plate, a few threads past the nut are still exposed. 
 
I currently have two electrosockets and they're both arranged such that the jack is flush. This does indeed allow the surround to "funnel" the plug into the hole.

However, this just isn't a big deal at all, and it does stop right-angled plugs from working. I think this is what will lead me to switch them for square ones.

The deep panel jacks and 1/2" hole don't get mentioned much around here. Why's that? Just curious, not really bothered about ever putting one on.
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
Cagey said:
I'm surprised to see that, but you do have the jack sticking way out of the mounting flange, which defeats its design intent. But, it's still attractive so I don't suppose it matters. If it works for you, then you're good to go.

What design intent?  Is it supposed to be flush?  There are no directions or pictures of a suggested, finished install.  Even a straight cable couldn't stay in if it weren't sticking out a bit.  It is funnel shaped afterall.  There's the overhang and jacket of the cable.  Even when installing a jack on a flat plate, a few threads past the nut are still exposed.

Perhaps I'm reading things into it. A funnel shaped design? Why would you do that, unless you wanted to direct flow from a large area to a small one?

Assuming that's your intent, why would you direct flow like that if you were going to block the neck of the funnel with the lip of a protruding jack? It's frustrating.

I've used the things because I like the appearance of them, but that's where I ended up: frustrated. With most of my cables not working.

It's no biggie. If Electrosockets work for you, then you're happy. Plates work better for me, so I'm happy. If we're all happy, life is good. And fair.
 
Maybe I'm reading into it too, but I thought it was just designed to be recessed like an improved cup design.  Even with a straight cable, I'd still let it protrude more just because the rest of the cable is wider than 1/4".  It never occurred to the funnel shape was to guide it in, simply because the cable end is cone shaped.  If I lack that coordination of plugging it in, I'd better stay away from the fretboard.
 
Moral of the story: use a strat top mount jack.  It might not look pretty depending on your body style, but they work daggumit!
 
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