First build, introductory post - VIP almost done!!!

[Cagey]

There's a YouTube series on building a Warmoth from The Musician's Den that's pretty informative, and he gets into the fret leveling issue with radiused necks about halfway through it, maybe part 15? 16? It's a 32 part series, so you may have to search a bit. Most of it you won't need, but it's there anyway. Be forewarned: the guy tends to ramble on to the point of tedium sometimes, but don't skip around too much or you're liable to miss it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqLfllURlo8

As for the switch body relief, I'd use a Forstner bit in a drill press with a depth stop set to keep you from doing anything tragic. Those bits drill flat-bottomed holes except for the pilot point, which doesn't matter because you'll have a hole in the center of the relief anyway.

Wenge/Ebony doesn't need any finish or treatment. It'll be fine as is for just about forever.

I don't know about an 18.5" radius gauge, but you can just use a set of spark plug gap feeler gauges to check individual string heights and that'll work just as well.

 

[Ljbarbeau]

Cagey:
I don't post a lot on this forum but I read often.  You always seem to have the right answer. Those forstner bits are exactly what I need.  

I watched that YouTube tutorial you talk about.  Actually the video I posted is actually part 16.

My question is more about the tool he uses.   I'm used to the bar leveler
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Neck,_fingerboard/Fret_Fingerboard_Levelers.html
but he is using the diamond stone instead.  
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Neck,_fingerboard/Diamond_Fret_Levelers.html

I never used those.  Is this how you guys do it?  Can I use this same technique on straight radius neck?

Kboman:
When I do a setup I have to tight then loose the string quite often and even sometime remove them completely.  With the string cut so short they are hard to put back.  Also wound strings seems to unwound quite easily since they are cut so short...   I usually leave about 1/2-3/4 inch of string protruding from my tuners.  But it's not an option with those.


Apriorimark:
I'm in a small town.  I don't trust my guitars with any of the luthiers we have here.  I'd rather do it myself.  I'm probably gonna keep the cream dots.  But I will never order them again.  Probably gonna go dot less from now on unless buying from the showcase.

 

[Cagey]

The bar leveller costs less up front, but requires that you keep replacing the abrasive as it wears, which is also not as predictably flat as the diamond stone. The technique is the same, it's just that the stone is always ready and has a consistent abrasive quality. Still, you can get the same results either way.

 

[kboman]

Kboman:
When I do a setup I have to tight then loose the string quite often and even sometime remove them completely.  With the string cut so short they are hard to put back.  Also wound strings seems to unwound quite easily since they are cut so short...   I usually leave about 1/2-3/4 inch of string protruding from my tuners.  But it's not an option with those.

That's pretty much what I've been afraid of with those tuners. I think I'll stick to manual trimming

 

[Danuda]

I have the planet waves tuners and I love them.  I was able te set up my guitar using the same strings.  Past taking them off more than once though and I agree, they become too short and are a problem.  I never take my strings off unless I am putting new ones on so it has never been a problem for me.  The auto trim feature is cool, but to be honest it really doesn't save that much time.  My next guitar I probably will get planet waves again since I rarely change strings.  Regardless though I am a locking tuner guy for life.  no more wraps for me.