FIREBURST FINISH

GUNSNGUITARS

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[/img]Been a few years since I've been on here. Finally got my dream shot built and got a Quilted map top Tele routed out. I really want to do a Fireburst Finish but there seems to be different ways to mix the dye to get he Orange/Red finish. Anyone have any experience or any recipes to achieve this. I'm assuming I'll need Orange with Red mixed in to get the tint I need. Thanks much
tim

Never dyed Black and then sanded back either. Anything I need to worry about doing that. Seen where people dye black first to Pop the grain.. then sand it off.

 

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This might not be the exact burst you're after, but there is this very interesting video on getting a "nuclear burst" with stains :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeERvZ8ca3o

Especially if you're wondering about the order in which to apply the different dyes, and when to sand in-between.
 
Here is one I did.

01-Small-Front_of_Tele.jpg


And here is the thread on how.
Patrick

 
Thanks for the replies. Patrick,, that is awesome. I'm not sure I have the patience or knowledge to layer dyes though. all of the guitars I have built and finished, I have always layed a base coat of dye, the toned it with laquer. Can you explain your process (steps) of you layed the dye down. Looks like a base of Yellow. Then maybe shaded with Red.... Then a black "Burst" ring on the outer edge.

Also looks like you didn't initially dye the center of the body with black (to pop grain)and sand off.. just the edges???
 
I did it backwards from what you said.  Before I start, it is best to get some figured pieces of wood and practice.  I obtained some figured scraps from eBay for quite cheap, and I was able to get my bearings on how things behave.  I started with the black around the edge, and pushed it towards the middle.  I used acetone to "blend" the dye towards the middle.  Then I sanded it to have the dye stay only in the places where it easily penetrated the wood.  I did the same procedure with the red, pushing it from the outside to the middle, but not actually getting there.  I sanded the middle of the guitar, because I liked the Black and Red effect on the outside edge.  I had not actually used any dye in the center of the guitar at this point, but I wanted the middle layer of red to be sanded back so it would blend with the yellow.  I then dyed the whole thing yellow, starting in the center so as not to pull the darker dyes in to the middle and muck it up.  While my description sounds precise, the process was anything but.  At this point the thing looked like it has three distinct areas, so I blended a little with acetone, and the barriers between the colors melted quite a bit.  I reapplied a tiny amount of black to the edges to frame the look and then I put clear over the top.  I should have sealed it first to try to lock the dyes in place better, they were pulled up by the solvent in the lacquer, making the clear kind of yellow.  I used alcohol soluble powder dyes from Reranch.  If I were to do it over, I'd use MEK dyes from LMII to avoid solvent issues.  However, if you are not using lacquer, the alcohol dyes work fine, very easy really.
Patrick

 
I appreciate everyones replies... but I guess I'm a little too new to finishing. What I was looking for is what Dyes do I need to mix to get this shade of orange... and any idea what the starting ratio's would be.  I'm assuming I will need Orange with Red mixed in with it??
 

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I seriously doubt there's anything resembling an ''official'' ratio of colors. As Patrick suggested, get yourself some scrap wood and mix your dyes until you get the color you want. Trans-tint dyes are soluble in either alcohol or water, and mixing up your very own ''custom color'' really is very easy...enjoy!! 
 
I got primary colors so that I could mix the colors, and have some idea what would happen.  It is more of an art than a science.  Each brand of dye will have its intricacies.  Also one big thing to note, when you dye the wood, it will look pretty much like it should, but alarmingly bland.  The clear coat will take it from regular to high def.  It is a revelation when you see it go from one to the other.
Patrick

 
As a starting point for orange, I have had good luck with General Finishes water-based dye.  This is at full strength from the can, with a black grain filler on ash, but for figured maple, you'll probably want to do a dilute darker color dye, sand back, then apply your orange (maybe at a diluted strength, as well) - and then work your burst in from the edges as Patrick describes.  The dark first coat remains in the figure and makes it contrast more when you apply the lighter dye on top of it.


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