Figured Walnut build...making cheap wood look expensive

[dmraco]

I got my hands on a great figured walnut veneer.  So I ordered an alder body from a builder I know and he made it to my specs.  It will be veneered top and bottom.  I will make the sides BLACK with a VERY tiny black accent burst to hide the wood transition.  When complete it should look like a solid walnut body.  But MUCH lighter!!!

I am thinking of getting something cool for the neck.  I am not sure what shape.  It may be a pau ferro neck with a canary fingerboard.  I want it raw.  I was considering a walnut neck but I do not want a finish on it.

Here is the body getting ready for the veneer.

 

[Cagey]

That's gonna be sharp. Looking forward to watching this come to life.

 

[slashin_velvet]

Out of interest.....how flat is the veneer?

Do you plan on using a vaccuum press, or standard weights and clamps?

 

[dmraco]

Out of interest.....how flat is the veneer?

Do you plan on using a vaccuum press, or standard weights and clamps?

weights.  I do not have a vacuum

 

[slashin_velvet]

I used one of these with great success - http://www.roarockit.com/proddetail.php?prod=01301

If you're veneer is very flat, and you're not applying to a curved surface, then weights should be fine....however if you plan on doing this more then once, then the kit may be a worth investment.

 

[Cagey]

I was under the impression those vacuum kits cost a lot more than that. From what I've read of others who've done veneer, the vacuum method is superior, so at that price I think I'd be making the investment. Hate to have bubbles or hollows under the stuff.

 

[dmraco]

i have one of those bags you hook up to a vacuum  :laughing11: :laughing11: :laughing11: :laughing11:

 

[slashin_velvet]

I was under the impression those vacuum kits cost a lot more than that. From what I've read of others who've done veneer, the vacuum method is superior, so at that price I think I'd be making the investment. Hate to have bubbles or hollows under the stuff.

The ones you buy from most veneer suppliers are set up with a motorised pump, and are such a niche product that they can afford to mark it up. These ones come with a manual hand pump, and it only takes about 2 minutes to create full vacuum.

These kits were designed for making skateboards manually at home (hence the longer bags on their website), but have found they can be used for other purposes.

Mine was $100AUD from a local store here in Australia....$60US is a good price, and worth the investment if the veneer has any warping/isnt flat. (I used a walnut "burr" peice that came wrapped up.....it was very bumpy, so the vacuum press was a must have for my project).

i have one of those bags you hook up to a vacuum  :laughing11: :laughing11: :laughing11: :laughing11:

I actually did a lot of digging into this idea when I head of a vacuum press (the space bag), but my research established that they dont hold the same pressure as these kits

I'd offer for you to borrow mine, but I assume you arent local to me.

You can see my end result here: http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=24203.15

 

[stubhead]

Same shape as your seafoam guitar? Your siggie, or his?

 

[dmraco]

Same shape as your seafoam guitar? Your siggie, or his?

Similar.  Lower horn is different and has a PRS style cut out

 

[DangerousR6]

That will be cool, and yes solid walnut is very heavy.

Krank N Stein is walnut with maple runners and a canary neck with ziricote board. And it's by far one of my favs....

 

[dmraco]

Quick update.  I have sanded off the mess I made the 1st time and tried again.  This time I used a 50lb bag of Costco rice to help set the veneer.
Here is the back.  I am going to leave this alder.  I will stain brown to get close to the walnut color.


Here is the new front.  I still have to sand the edges and cut out the PU and bridge routes.  Looks good.  I will be shooting a trans black on the back and sides and giving a small highlight on the front edges to blend into the sides.

I am still considering neck options.  I was thinking wenge with a canary or pau ferro fret board.

 

[dmraco]

first pass with some 220 grit.  I still need to clean up the endues by hand.  The dark spot is naphtha.  This stuff REALLY gets dark when wet.  I am going to seal it with shellac or I will be spraying FOREVER!!!

 

[Great Ape]

Lookin' very cool...very unique!

 

[fdesalvo]

Subscribed!

 

[dmraco]

I am going between black or silver hardware.  Going to leave the cutout natural like PRS.

 

[fdesalvo]

Black may disappear against that top.

 

[dmraco]

Black may disappear against that top.

that is what I was thinking.

 

[slashin_velvet]

Black may disappear against that top.

that is what I was thinking.

Depends whether you want your hardware to be a feature or to be less flashy. I myself prefer understated hardware where possible, so went with black. Also, whilst your top looks dark, using a tru-oil type finish shoulds brighten it up a touch.

 

[dmraco]

The top will just be clear lacquer.  When I hit with naphtha it really was dark.  I will see.  Tomorrow I hi]ope to finish the sanding and get some shellac on it. 

there is always GOLD......