Drilling holes

[LP Freak]

New member and first post.  :headbang:

So I just ordered a prefinished body with the pickup selector being the only control drilled since I’d like to spot the volume and tone myself. What’s the best method to drill holes without chipping the finish?

 

[Cagey]

Forstner bit. Cuts very clean, as it slices the outside of the hole before it starts digging in the center.

Be sure to get one that has the smooth cutting edges as pictured above. Some of them have serrated edges, which will cut wood nice and clean but may not cut as cleanly through finish.

Here's a shot of a couple holes done that way...

 

[pabloman]

What a Quty!

 

[Cagey]

Hehe! Yeah, I've gotten a lotta mileage out of that shot, haven't I?

 

[LP Freak]

Forstner bit. Cuts very clean, as it slices the outside of the hole before it starts digging in the center.

Be sure to get one that has the smooth cutting edges as pictured above. Some of them have serrated edges, which will cut wood nice and clean but may not cut as cleanly through finish.

Here's a shot of a couple holes done that way...

Excellent, thanks.

 

[Tomatonator]

Or brad point if you can't get forstner that small maybe. Only limited experience here but I got 13mm forstner for countersunk neck holes and a 9.5mm (3/8") brad point for trem post holes + a little internal sanding of those holes. This was all before finish on mine though.

 

[Cagey]

The three must-have Forstners (or brad points) you need for guitar work are quite common - 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". That'll cover mini-switches, standard switches, pots and jacks.

 

[rgand]

No matter which type of bit you end up using, get top quality. It makes a difference in how it cuts and how long it will stay sharp.

I had an inexpensive brad point bit that wouldn't cut properly because the center point was off center and one side of the tip cut more than the other.

 

[LP Freak]

I grabbed a set today that goes from 1/4” to 1-3/8” so I should have everything covered. Thanks guys.