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Custom Warmoth build

Cobretti86

Junior Member
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Hi guys,

coming here from strat talk.  first post.
I would like to ask a question. Maybe someone can give me an answer as this will be my first warmoth build, and first time using a compound radius(10-16). Given that I will be using a wilkensons vn-100 tremolo (2.2" spacing maybe?) and a 1 11/16 nut im wondering will my pickups be fine with that radius (HSS strat body). the bridge P/U is a seymour tb-4 JB (all flat poles), and the middle and neck are rails. vintage rails in the middle and cool rails for the neck. Also, and I know you guys won't know exactly how a custom built guitar will sound, but do you think those pickups in a black kornia/maple top body with a maple neck will sounds nice (3A flame 1 piece)? Would you assume it would sound nice I guess I'm asking haha. You can never have too much feedback when your a newbie. Not I'm totally green, I've been fooling around with guitars for a few years and I've been playing for over 10 years, but I'm no pro with all this technical stuff. I appreciate all the feedback people, thanks! :guitarplayer2:
 
First off welcome, and we all do know how custom built guitar will sound, cause we've all built one. And from my experience they all sound different. Many variables that make up the unique characteristics of each guitar. :icon_thumright:
 
First off, welcome to the forum! We have a lot of fun here, and there are a lot of talented people sharing a great deal of knowledge about guitar finishing, wiring, assembly, and adjustment.

As to your question, you don't have a problem. That bridge and those pickups will set up and work great with that neck. I'm a big fan of the VS-100 and have them on several of my guitars.

The wood choices will also work together ok, but it's not often you see Black Korina covered up with some other wood. If you want a figured Maple top over a "warmer" body carcass, you might consider Mahogany. For as little as the body contributes to tonal character, there's not much sense in using an expensive cosmetic wood. Or, if you like the look of Korina, you may consider not putting a top on it. It's quite attractive on its own, so that's how most people use it.

 
DangerousR6 said:
Cagey said:
First off, welcome to the forum!
I said that already... :doh:

First off, welcome to the forum.

I think that sounds like a pretty good pickup combo! I've heard of the JB/Cool Rails and only heard good things about it. I had a JB and wasn't a big fan of it, but that doesn't mean you won't be. It was a little harsh for me, but it sounds like you've done your pickup research so you probably know what you're getting into. It was in an alder body, so whatever thats worth... People seem to love their black korina so I'm sure you will too. Not only do I think it'll sound good, but I bet it'll look pretty damn good too!
 
here's a link to a strat with maple neck and black korina/maple top body: http://www.bluetoneguitars.com/BlueTone_Guitars/Korina_S.html
 
my full specs would be...
body (CHAMBERED BODY??): black korina strat with quilted maple top (dyed blue like in the link posted above) and black binding. top routed for HSS. (TB-4 JB, SVR-1, SCR-1) black wilkinson vn-100 tremolo and black jack, black control knobs, black pick guard with white trim, everything black except the pickups they're white.

neck: strat style, vintage modern 3a maple flame 1 piece, black dots, 22 frets Stainless steel, vintage tint satin nitro finish, 10-16" compound radius, 1 11/16" graph tech nut, staggered locking tuners (black)
 
Just to give you some idea, i have built a Les Paul style with Korina body / Quilted maple top and have SD Jazz on the neck and JB on the bridge. All i can say about the JB's tone with this wood combination: It's loud, warm and balanced tone with considerable sustain probably due to korina's resonance. I have a rosewood neck though, maple neck might bring a bit more bright response.

Quoted from below link:

The JB works best in denser, brighter sounding guitars (Fender Stratocasters, Older Paul Reed Smith CE’s and most alder/basswood bodies) with rosewood fret boards because of the tighter bass response, strong mids, and medium to high output around 16.4k ohms DC resistance (how guitar pickup gain is usually measured). I tend to use these in guitars that didn’t have much of a clean presence right off the showroom floor. For the same types of guitars that naturally have a good resonance and clean tone, I’ll use the Invader to really bring out the dirtier side of the instrument. This guitar pickup comes paired with the Seymour Duncan SH-2 Jazz neck pickup in countless mid-priced and high end guitars, and the Seymour Duncan Hot Rodded pickup set.

http://www.buddyhawke.com/seymour-duncan-pickup-reviews/
 
ozyonum said:
16.4k ohms DC resistance (how guitar pickup gain is usually measured).

I don't know who says that, but gain is usually measured in decibels, and in reference to a gain stage, and you measure output in Volts. (Or milliVolts.) DCR is a measure of a coil's resistance to the flow of current at 0Hz. A different measurement entirely.

I don't know why so many people use incorrect measures. DCR hardly tells you ANYTHING about a pickup unless you know the rest of the specs.
 
taking the woods into consideration and the jb with vintage and cool rails would you recommend 500k volume and two 250k tones? some help please
 
Given that you're going with a 'darker' sounding body wood you could probably try 500k all round.
... or maybe 500k vol with 2 x 250k tone ... or maybe all 250k  :laughing7:

Sorry, not meaning to come off like a jerk but you'll never really know until you put it all together. The good thing about changing vol/tone pots is that it's a cheap way to change the tonal balance of the guitar. You could even try tacking the electronics together outside the guitar to see what works best—extend the pickup leads and try connecting different combinations of resistors using alligator plugs before the output jack.

Like many here I'd be tempted not to cover up your exotic wood, but having looked at the link you posted above I gotta say that guitar looks pretty damn sweet  :icon_thumright:

At the end of the day it's YOUR custom build. You get to spec this guitar out exactly as you want. If you've got a strong idea about how it's going to look, go with that. There was a thread a while back asking what people regretted with their Warmoth builds and the big things was skimping out or not trusting their guts enough to build the guitar they had envisaged. I say GO FOR IT!

... and post pictures .... we love pictures  :hello2:
 
I have used JB / Jazz combo with 500K volume and tone pots as suggested in the wiring diagram. However do note the following quote directly from Seymour Duncan product page: "Some players use it with 250K pots to smooth out the highs"
@ http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/electric/humbucker/high-output/sh4_jb_model/

line6man said:
ozyonum said:
16.4k ohms DC resistance (how guitar pickup gain is usually measured).

I don't know who says that, but gain is usually measured in decibels, and in reference to a gain stage, and you measure output in Volts. (Or milliVolts.) DCR is a measure of a coil's resistance to the flow of current at 0Hz. A different measurement entirely.

I don't know why so many people use incorrect measures. DCR hardly tells you ANYTHING about a pickup unless you know the rest of the specs.

I agree with that. However pickup comparison in Seymour Duncan web site gives the DC resistance as the only spec for the comparison and it somehow tends people to relate it with gain.
@ http://www.seymourduncan.com/comparetones  
 
ozyonum said:
I have used JB / Jazz combo with 500K volume and tone pots as suggested in the wiring diagram. However do note the following quote directly from Seymour Duncan product page: "Some players use it with 250K pots to smooth out the highs"
@ http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/electric/humbucker/high-output/sh4_jb_model/

line6man said:
ozyonum said:
16.4k ohms DC resistance (how guitar pickup gain is usually measured).

I don't know who says that, but gain is usually measured in decibels, and in reference to a gain stage, and you measure output in Volts. (Or milliVolts.) DCR is a measure of a coil's resistance to the flow of current at 0Hz. A different measurement entirely.

I don't know why so many people use incorrect measures. DCR hardly tells you ANYTHING about a pickup unless you know the rest of the specs.

I agree with that. However pickup comparison in Seymour Duncan web site gives the DC resistance as the only spec for the comparison and it somehow tends people to relate it with gain.
@ http://www.seymourduncan.com/comparetones  

A lot of manufacturers do this, and from an engineering standpoint, it's quite ridiculous. They give you the DCR and resonant peak of all of their pickups, but those measures alone tell you nothing. What is the wire gauge? That has a serious effect on the DCR, and not much of an effect on the output level, depending on how the coil is wound. It would be useful publish the average number of turns of wire for each pickup design, as well. DiMarzio posts an output level in milliVolts, which is much more useful, but of course, it is only useful relative to comparing pickups in their product line, because you don't know what method was used to test the coils, so another manufacturer's tests may be different. In any case, I would rather have questionable milliVolt output specs than worthless DCR specs. If you are going to try to rate the output level of the pickups in your line, use the appropriate measurement instead of filling people's heads with misconceptions. :tard:
 
I agree with Mr. Avenger - 500K pots on everything. Audio taper.

I also say 1 volume, 1 tone. Anything more is just useless clutter and doesn't work properly.
 
how is the set up in relation to what you suggested? http://www.guitartechcraig.com/techwire/tech16.jpg
can you give me some more details on exactly how you think i should (you would) wire this set up. JB-vintage rails-cool rails
 
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