Truss rod adjustment is easy on a good neck with a properly (not damaged or defective) functioning truss rod.
String the thing up and tune to pitch. press the string down on the first fret and on a fret where the neck joins the body (usually around the 17th). You will need both hands for this, or you can use a capo at the first fret to free up a hand. While doing this, check the distance between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the 8th fret. Why the 8th? Because that is close to the middle between the two points where you are fretting the string. There should be a tiny bit of distance. Some players like the neck to be perfectly straight (no distance), but there is actually supposed to be some neck relief (a.k.a. "forward bow). Too much will result in high action. In any case, under NO circumstances should the neck ever be back-bowed.
You can use feeler gauges, but I just tap on the string (like a hammer-on) on the 8th fret and look, and listen for a "clicking" sound. If there is no "clicking" sound at all, the neck is either totally straight, or back-bowed. A slight clicking sound will indicate some relief. Turning the truss rod adjuster clock-wise will straighten the neck (create counter tension), while turning it counter clock-wise will allow more relief (forward bow) as the counter tension is reduced and the string tension pulls on the neck. You should not go more than 1/4 turn at-a-time, re-checking after each adjustment. Once the adjustment is made, you should then adjust the bridge or bridge saddle height for the final string height adjustment. I like 1/16" to 5/64" @ the 12th fret, but it's all a matter of preference, and you may prefer something different.
As previously mentioned by someone else, there could be more "settling" of the neck after it sits for a couple days or a week, so you'll want to re-check it again after some time has passed, however some necks will not need readjustment.
ccasion14: And I am now rocking out :guitarist gif:
