Can a rio grande powerbucker 5 string be series, parallel, single coil?

[line6man]

ah ok, well ill get a 4 pole 5 way somewhere then, but ive had a thought, would wiring the two in seperate volume and tone as in two seperate circuits, with the bridge having a push push to change the parallel/series work?  then solder the wires that go to the jack from each circuit seperately, along side the ground? just having looked at my options i have three, each with flaws:

1. rotary switch, looks complex wiring for a first time build
2. toggle switches, easier to wire, but need a smaller hole drilled, thus meaning id have to chance ruining a bit of the finish, though i would cover it and everything.
3. seperate circuits with a push/push on the volume for the bridge(cheap s1 switch), no clue if i could actually do that, and whether it would be safe to.
4. the only other thing is the five way selector switch that strats use, but that means getting someone else to rout a slot for it.

I would much rather just do two volumes and a 3 way switch, with a series/parallel for the Powerbucker than the rotary thing.

1. Just go for it. It's not that difficult if you have patience.
2. No comment.
3. Yeah, you could do a series/parallel for the bridge pickup as a push/pull no problem.
4. FWIW, Stew Mac sells a 4P5T Strat switch.

 

[JimBeed]

do you mean like, two volumes ( one or two tones?), three way toggle switch, and could the series parallel be a push push pot for the powerbucker volume? i can get a hold of a proper fender s1 switch, is that a better option?  this is gonna be a non show on wall bass so if it requires a 25 pound fender actual pot, then it shall have it,

 

[line6man]

do you mean like, two volumes ( one or two tones?), three way toggle switch, and could the series parallel be a push push pot for the powerbucker volume? i can get a hold of a proper fender s1 switch, is that a better option?  this is gonna be a non show on wall bass so if it requires a 25 pound fender actual pot, then it shall have it,

Yes, two volume controls, one or two tones, a 3 way pickup selector switch, and a push/pull series/parallel for the Powerbucker.

I am not familiar with the Fender S1 switches, but if it's a DPDT switch, it should work fine if you can identify the terminals.

 

[JimBeed]

well for my p bass it does the job of series/parallel, and looking at pictures it has two levels like the rotary switches kinda, well it has 12 ports on it, so must be a more advanced version of the one in my bass, so ill go with a push/pull? would a push/push be like you push it to take it to series, then push it again to take it back to parallel? cause with the knob choice i was gonna go with a push/push would be easier if possible, if it works how i thought it would,

 

[line6man]

well for my p bass it does the job of series/parallel, and looking at pictures it has two levels like the rotary switches kinda, well it has 12 ports on it, so must be a more advanced version of the one in my bass, so ill go with a push/pull? would a push/push be like you push it to take it to series, then push it again to take it back to parallel? cause with the knob choice i was gonna go with a push/push would be easier if possible, if it works how i thought it would,

A push/pull works fine for series/parallel.
It's just a DPDT switch function.

I would strongly recommend push/pull over push/push, unless you used that S1 switch.

The push/push type switch that Warmoth sells just gives me a bad vibe, because it's so flimsy feeling that I doubt it would hold up very long with normal use, and of course, it breaks quite easily if you accidentally pull it instead of pushing.

Just stick with a regular push/pull pot and keep things easy.

 

[JimBeed]

cool ok, for wiring it ive found a couple of diagrams and im trying to put them together roughly, would it be wired for the toggle, then the push pull, then the volume/tone etc?

 

[JimBeed]

oh wait, would it be the volumes alongside the push pull on the bridge volume, then the 3 way toggle, then the tone , then the jack?

 

[line6man]

oh wait, would it be the volumes alongside the push pull on the bridge volume, then the 3 way toggle, then the tone , then the jack?

The bridge pickup will go to the push/pull, where it will then go to a volume control, which will then go to the 3 way switch. The neck pickup will go to a volume control, where it will then go to the 3 way switch.
From the switch, the signal will feed to the tone control, then to the output jack.

I can do another diagram if you get lost with it.

 

[JimBeed]

thanks very much but i just needed to know the order, cause the ones ive found are what i need, just in three seperate diagrams, but im gonna post it and ask what you think. thanks for all your help, want the diagram fool proof before i even order.

 

[JimBeed]

Hope i got this right

Yes its a very basic paint drawing but thats only program ive got for that.
and anything missing/wrong?

 

[line6man]

Hope i got this right

Yes its a very basic paint drawing but thats only program ive got for that.
and anything missing/wrong?

I don't understand your color code?
"1st" and "2nd" refer to what? The coils?
There should be three coils in total.

You appear to be missing the capacitor on the tone control, and you didn't ground the third terminal on the bridge pickup's volume pot.

 

[JimBeed]

oh yeah that does relate to 1st and 2nd coil, well the neck pick up i did in same colours as 1st coil on the bridge, and the capacitors there i just hadnt drawn it, but wrote it there, and oh thanks for that ill remember that, so is it right apart from that or wrong?

 

[line6man]

oh yeah that does relate to 1st and 2nd coil, well the neck pick up i did in same colours as 1st coil on the bridge, and the capacitors there i just hadnt drawn it, but wrote it there, and oh thanks for that ill remember that, so is it right apart from that or wrong?

Looks ok.

It's better to refer to the coils as north and south.
North being the coil closer to the neck, and south being closer to the bridge.

 

[JimBeed]

ah right ok ill amend that then, and ive got the bridge ground going to the bridge volume, should i have it soldered to the tone pot alongside capacitor or doesnt matter?

 

[line6man]

ah right ok ill amend that then, and ive got the bridge ground going to the bridge volume, should i have it soldered to the tone pot alongside capacitor or doesnt matter?

The bridge ground can go anywhere, just so long as everything that's grounded maintains 0 ohms continuity to ground.

 

[JimBeed]

ok cool, erm did i do the wiring on the toggle switch right? wasnt sure, and the push pull? thanks for all your help, the push pull will depend on if the pick up can accomadate that set up, if not ill use normal pot with it,

 

[line6man]

ok cool, erm did i do the wiring on the toggle switch right? wasnt sure, and the push pull? thanks for all your help, the push pull will depend on if the pick up can accomadate that set up, if not ill use normal pot with it,

The push pull appears correct, but I you need to make sure the color code is correct though.
I'll tell you when you re-draw it.

The pickup selector is fine, though it could be simplified like the switch in this diagram:

In case you were wondering why one pickup goes to one pole, and the other to the other pole, with the two poles joined together at the common terminals, rather than just doing everything on one pole, there are actually two types of DPDT On-On-On switches, and doing it this way ensures that the switch will function properly with either type.
(This diagram shows the switch function in each position of both types of switches, for reference.)

 

[JimBeed]

cheers ill get the new one done tommorow, with better clearer look to it, right now its 5 in the morning here and i need to sleep, hehe

 

[jackthehack]

In reference to hole size for the rotary switch, I've seen them come in both 1/2" (same as Gibson type 3-way toggle) and 3/8" (same as normal volume/tone control pots) check with whomever you're buying the switch from before drilling the hole to be sure.

 

[JimBeed]

Does this look right now? got the colour code done right, the grounds all wired up as far as i know, and the capacitor added, hope this is right, if it isnt please tell me anything wrong with it, thanks