Burnt Telecaster

thekiwidisciple

Junior Member
Messages
34
Got this made up by Warmoth, with a neck too, a few months ago. Just got it back from the pyrographer today. It has no finish on it.

27062009.jpg


Will be starting the finish probably tomorrow.
 
I'll start the finish shortly. I'm using Minwax Wipe-On Poly. Because of the burning, grain filling was not possible. So it'll end up with a beautiful natural finish!!

As far as pickups go, I've had a set made by Mick Brierley (Adelaide). If you're ever looking for pickups, do yourself a favour and contact this man! You will not regret it!!

http://www.brierleyguitarpickups.com.au/
 
I hope you get this in time - I would NOT use minwax wipe on poly for that beautiful piece of art!
The surface will be very, very uneven - unfilled swamp ash plus all the burning. The poly will pool in the depressions and probably take forever to dry to an uneven and ugly mess. Further, it's very hard to add coats to fix screwups - new coats will tend to lay on top visibly without blending in with previous coats. I think the wipe on poly is great for very smooth wood applications like a maple neck, so-so for wood like alder or poplar. I would not use it on swamp ash, especially not on a one of a kind piece like you have there.
That piece of art is a fine candidate for a bit of color, like a vintage amber, and a nitro finish - easy to repair and forgiving of mistakes. Seriously!
 
Thanks for the info, tfarny. I haven't started the finish, and I guess I won't use the Minwax after reading what you've written. I don't want to stain it with amber or anything, I like the contrast between the Ash and the burning. What would you suggest for a finish?
 
WOW!!!  That is going to be a real looker  :glasses9:
So, who is your pyrographer?  Where do you go to get work like this?
If you don't know the rules; more pictures are required.  Please keep us posted...  :hello2:
:kewlpics: :rock-on:
 
Tfarny has a great point about the wipe on finished.  It is ash, so it will take quite some time to seal the wood as well.  I am finishing up an ash  bass body with urethane and a spray gun.  It took 4 coats of sealer, after grain filling.  I might have been a little excessive about being "sure" but it took in a lot of sealer.  The point I would emphasize more is to get spray on finish.  This way you can control the thickness of the layers of finish much better.  Then you should use lots of thin coats.  It will look like drizzle has hit the body, and then a moment or two later the whole thing looks like one continuous sheen, and stop.  Since it has quite a few uneven surfaces wait until it is dry and then do the other side.  Then wait at least a day for it to properly set up, more might be better, before doing the next layer.  Spray cans commonly require more time than spray rigs because of the amount of solvent/propellant used in the cans to keep the finish dissolved/spray worthy.  This means you have to wait longer for the solvents to leave.  Use you nose, it will tell you real quick when the finish is solvent free.  The more thin coats, the better off the job will end up, so patience will be very useful here.  

It is a beautiful piece you have there.  Keep us updated.
Patrick

 
Thanks everybody.

Tonar8353 said:
I would shoot a couple of wash coats of non yellowing gloss water white lacquer on it then fill it with McFadden’s transparent grain filler.  
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Filler&NameProdHeader=McFadden%92s%99+Pore+Filler

After it was level I'd finish it off with the McFadden’s gloss lacquer.  

Nice work.

Thanks for the suggestion, but doing this will mess up the really delicate details in the texture of the burns, which I do love. I like the idea of being able to feel the grain, I think it gives it a more natural feel. I only want to give it a thin natural finish.
 
Well if you want it to look good for years to come, Tonar's way is no doubt the best. Protecting that is probably a bit more complicated than just finishing an alder body.
 
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