I've never played a Goncalo-Alves neck, so can't offer any experience with that, however, I do know it's apparently got a 'waxy' finish, whereas my Bubinga one is definitely dry.
It's a harder wood than some, and seems to add some spank compared with a roasted Maple neck [that I do have], but not as bright as my Pau Ferro / Pau Ferro and Pau Ferro / Ebony neck builds - wood can be different, who knew? :laughing7:
My Bubinga neck is a quarter sawn fatback, so I'm automatically a fan of the looks for straight, plainer grain. One feature that may or may not work is the colour - I'm not sure mine's mellowed yet [not had it long enough for that I don't think], but it may clash with some woods - I was lucky in that it compliments the Canary top, and is close to the Mahogany back of the body [from the Warmoth showcase, that I got before I ordered the neck]. This issue may not be a concern for some, but I like things that work with each other...
Stability wise, once all parts were assembled and set up, I've not had to touch the truss rod adjuster once. Granted, I don't tour or play in extremes [just in comfort of home], but I'm of the understanding it's pretty damn stable in different climates? Someone else with experience of environment change playability will hopefully confirm / refute my understanding...
Feel wise, it's a smooth neck, but it isn't a consistent tight grain gap, there's some openings, but nothing like say, Wenge.
I did buy another Bubinga neck online for a project I had planned - great price, neck, wood, shape etc, but I sold it on, as I couldn't manage with the smaller nut width [even having owned EBMM Lukes in the past I couldn't readjust comfortably], big hands and 1-5/8" nuts are just not a good match for me and I'm not getting rid of my hands...
All in all, despite my bias, I'd say go for it!