Are you Kidding Me??

I think you're going to be SOL on this one.  It's entirely a "cosmetic" issue, sort of, in a place that no one will see.  I'm sorry man, but I think you're overreacting.

And considering these things are CNCed on the same machines in the same building, you get a new one and the screws are probably just going to go through to the trem cavity on the next one.  That's assuming they give you another one, but I find that highly unlikely.
 
And just as an FYI, if Tonar is saying it's normal and it doesn't hurt anything, then it's normal and it doesn't hurt anything.
 
deepblue said:
so you drove the screws too deep and that's some how the fault of warmoth?
sorry but i'd guess your SOL. i mean warmoth didn't drive the screws in right?

I drove the screws in untill they hit the bridge plate.....you know, where they are suppose to rest!
I mean really...do you know anything at all about a vintage tremolo?
Should I leave the screw heads sticking up 1/4' off the plate?......dont insult my intelligence.

Actually, if you want the tremolo to function properly you're supposed to leave the screws off the body/bridge plate a bit. That's why the screws aren't threaded at the ends... to give the tremolo a full range of motion when the screws are set slightly off the body.
 
Actually, if you want the tremolo to function properly you're supposed to leave the screws off the body/bridge plate a bit. That's why the screws aren't threaded at the ends... to give the tremolo a full range of motion when the screws are set slightly off the body.

I know all of this...thats why the base plate is cut on a slight wedge angle.
Im 46 and know a few things about guitars.

Bottom line....
If, as Warmoth states these are Fender compatable bodies the vintage trem screws should NOT..Ill
repeat that..NOT come through into the trem cavity.
If thats ok with you guys cool...I have a higher standard.
I should have gone with a Hefner body.
 
You could always go at 'em with a Dremel. Grind those tips right off and no one'll know the difference.  :laughing7:

(I'm kidding. I'm fully aware that that's not the point of your post.)
 
I have a W strat and while I didn't take the bridge off my old strat, I did use the screws. and they didn't stick through at all.  These bodies are CNC routed so I doubt there is any deviation, unless it is a massive defect, and that would be caught by the QA guys.  So I'd say despite all the idealized specs that "must" be exactly the same.  You might just have some screws that are a bit longer than they're supposed to be.  It could've also been Fender that messed up.  I also screwed mine all the way in until the back of the bridge was up in the air (because I had never installed a Strat bridge before and wasn't sure what I was doing at first) and they still didn't poke through.
 
I'm still failing to see what the massive issue is.  It doesn't affect playability.  It barely affects anything cosmetically, if at all.  Especially if you're going to put on a trem cover.  It's the same thing as the worn through edges behind the pick guard on that body a few weeks ago.  It has no effect on anything and you can't see it.  What is the actual issue other than your supposed higher standards?
 
I've had this on two different fenders and on a warmoth body btw. The length of the screws you choose to use does not a defect in the body make. Get some shorter screws if it really bugs you.  :dontknow:
 
First let me say, I'm sorry that it happened - not the way anyone wants to start out with their new guitar. 

tfarny said:
I've had this on two different fenders and on a warmoth body btw. The length of the screws you choose to use does not a defect in the body make. Get some shorter screws if it really bugs you.  :dontknow:

Shorter screws, some hole filler and a little paint and no one will know. 
 
Even though I was on the other side of this discussion in the other thread with the buffing through of the finish under the pickguard, this isn't a Warmoth issue imo.  They didn't fail to measure screws.  These bodies/necks are based on samplings of other bodies, and can't possibly be expected to work perfectly with every vintage and option that's ever been on any Fender guitar ever.  As has been said, you should have measured, and you could have used shorter screws.  I won't touch the "it does/doesn't matter" discussion concerning if it's an issue.

-Mark
 
hey, at least they didn't forget to sand down the finish and binding on the fretboard over-hang on your neck. Then you'd really have a problem hahahaha :tard: :laughing7:
 
It's going to be OK.  Just ditch that John Mayer strat somehow/anyhow and it'll be our little secret.  :headbang:
 
I was told today by Warmoth that they route the tremolo cavity deeper then Fender.

BINGO!

Why is this not posted anywhere on the site? I could have taken measures to avoid this whole situation.

Im sorry to vents lads, but I like things neat and tidy. Having six screw tips looking at me every time I flip
the guitar over would remind me of a miscalculation....and btw...I dont use a trem cover, so its not like
it hidden.
 
Yes, for decades the tremolo rout has been deeper than Fender. As you may be able to guess, we do that to accommodate customer's desires to use different tremolo systems. Complaints about it are virtually non-existent which is significant when you realize the number of bodies we sell and for how long we've been doing it. Ken Warmoth designed that tremolo depth knowing full well those screw tips can show slightly. He surmised that it would be a non-issue to the customer in aesthetics or performance and that has turned out to be practically 100% accurate.

By the way, the pickup routs are also a tad bit deeper. You have Dimarzio to thank for that. Years ago they started putting the magnet on the bottom of their single coils and once again, our customers demanded we make our body compatible with various parts manufacturers, and we answered the call.
 
deepblue said:
100% of the money I sent to Warmoth is good. If these bodies (as claimed) are licensed by Fender, then they should be up to Fenders standards.

"Fender's standards"?  :icon_scratch:

Look, I hope things go right for you and I'm sure Warmoth will properly address the issue - but "Fenders standards" is an oxymoron like "military intelligence".

I've played guitars for many years and I think 99.99% of all Fender strats quality is absolute crap for the money. That being said, I agree that a stratocaster is a standard that all other guitars should be measured against (in terms of function, etc.) At least if you quantify the sort of quality one SHOULD expect for some of the ridiculous amounts even joe-blow Fender strats MSRP at.

I wouldn't touch an OEM Fender strat unless it was a 'Fender Custom Shop' or 'Master Built' one, and even then the amount they'd charge would be laughable. Which is why I'm building a Dave Murray strat via Warmoth vs. buying the POS (for the money Fender wants) Dave Murray Fender Signature Artist strat.

Good luck on your project!  :rock-on:

ORC
 
ORCRiST said:
deepblue said:
100% of the money I sent to Warmoth is good. If these bodies (as claimed) are licensed by Fender, then they should be up to Fenders standards.

"Fender's standards"?  :icon_scratch:

Look, I hope things go right for you and I'm sure Warmoth will properly address the issue - but "Fenders standards" is an oxymoron like "military intelligence".

I've played guitars for many years and I think 99.99% of all Fender strats quality is absolute crap for the money. That being said, I agree that a stratocaster is a standard that all other guitars should be measured against (in terms of function, etc.) At least if you quantify the sort of quality one SHOULD expect for some of the ridiculous amounts even joe-blow Fender strats MSRP at.

I wouldn't touch an OEM Fender strat unless it was a 'Fender Custom Shop' or 'Master Built' one, and even then the amount they'd charge would be laughable. Which is why I'm building a Dave Murray strat via Warmoth vs. buying the POS (for the money Fender wants) Dave Murray Fender Signature Artist strat.

Good luck on your project!  :rock-on:

ORC
the scale of quality/consistency (worst to best)
Gibson-Fender-ESP(standard)-Warmoth
 
Gregg said:
Yes, for decades the tremolo rout has been deeper than Fender. As you may be able to guess, we do that to accommodate customer's desires to use different tremolo systems. Complaints about it are virtually non-existent which is significant when you realize the number of bodies we sell and for how long we've been doing it. Ken Warmoth designed that tremolo depth knowing full well those screw tips can show slightly. He surmised that it would be a non-issue to the customer in aesthetics or performance and that has turned out to be practically 100% accurate.

By the way, the pickup routs are also a tad bit deeper. You have Dimarzio to thank for that. Years ago they started putting the magnet on the bottom of their single coils and once again, our customers demanded we make our body compatible with various parts manufacturers, and we answered the call.

Gregg....
Thank you for your input into this thread. But, dont you think there should be a section at least explaining to potential buyers that there are some differences to the body then you wouldnt expect from a typical Fender? I mean one of the reasons I chose Warmoth is because they are licenced by Fender, which says to me that you are built to Fenders tried and true specifications. If I had known this before my assembly started then I wouldnt have had to deal with this incident. I would have simply used smaller screws. You have a great web-site that if full of information. Perhaps  a paragraph or two to let people know that there will be a few cosmetic differences in the "Fender" bodies that you have for sale.
 
Sorry, just had to comment again... not trying to be mean or a jerk et. al. (as a matter of fact, of all the forums I surf on the 'Net, Unofficial Warmoth is most friendly flame-free one I've ever found).

But 'typical Fender' (another oxymoron ;)) bodies and necks are just as varied in form, fit, and function... depending on a Fender Strat thats MIA , MIM, or MIJ. I won't even go into variances over the long span of style/cosmetic/electronic/hardware changes that have occured to strats over the decades.

Again, I hope things work out for you and in the end your new strat ends up beong one you love!

ORC

 
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