Any 3D designers?

[justsomeguy1]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747019

I had this jig 3D printed to assist in drilling tuner locator pin holes in my headstock to accomodate my Schaller tuners. Ordered the 9.92mm Schaller holes in the headstock. Actually hole diameter I'm measuring around 9.60mm. Tuners fit but are very snug. The jig does not fit however.

Anyone good at looking at STL files?

Wondering if:

A) the design itself is wrong for what I'm trying to do
B) the print was somehow messed up
C) the STL is not correct

Would be helpful to know before I drop money on a 25/64" reamer.

 

[swarfrat]

I measure the STL as 9.7mm tuner holes spaced 23.35mm apart, so there's obviously no scaling error.  (ie - it's not off by 25.4x or something) Depending on your extrusion multiplier - your hole could be printing a tiny bit small - SOP is to allow about 0.1 to 0.2mm for fits on 3d printed parts. I'd say 0.2mm is safer for giving a print to someone else and you can whittle it down to 0.1mm if it's your own printer and you know you have it dialed in.

Do your calibration prints check out? If you've not already done a calibration recently and with this filament I'd give this a run through:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/index.html

 

[swarfrat]

Also - if they fit but are just too snug - I wouldn't spend the money on a specific reamer - I'd just give it a whirl with sandpaper on a dowel or a t-handled reamer.

 

[justsomeguy1]

Thanks for taking a look and the suggestions.

I didn't print this myself so I cannot check calibration. There's 3D printing shop down the road that I paid $10 to in order for them to print the jig. It's an assumption but I'd assume their machines are properly calibrated, pretty highly regarded shop around here. Ya never know though!

Also found this, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4883858 it looks the exact same to me.

I love the idea of 3D printing but am not confident in my ability to learn the design software. I have no artistic ability, I still use stick figures haha. Spent a few hours going through a fusion tutorial and didn't feel like I was really grasping it. Maybe I'll give it another shot, I'm really quite fond of the technology.

I'll likely just use that dowel and sandpaper idea. I like using the right tools for the job but 1/64" is so small I should be fine without a reamer.

Thanks!

 

[swarfrat]

The reamer I mentioned is tapered. So it works for a variety of sizes. And they're cheap. If the hole should theoretically be straight but it doesn't really matter like in this case, I usually just use the tapered reamer in both sides, so that I'm not making the top twice as big as it needs to be to fit the bottom of the hole.

I already have the 1/2" from Radio Shack eons ago but I might order this just to get the 5-16mm reamer.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lheng-1-3-13mm-5mm-Woodworker/dp/B07PZ847SR/ref=mp_s_a_1_33?dchild=1&keywords=t-handled+reamer&qid=1627384617&sr=8-33

 

[justsomeguy1]

Initially I didn't think a tapered reamer would be best since the tuner holes should be a straight 9.92mm, but in reality I should be able to ream from both sides then safely drill out the swell in the middle. Sorry for misunderstanding initially, new to a lot of this stuff.

https://www.amazon.ca/QXUJI-3-18mm-12-7mm-Woodworker-Repairman-Maintenance/dp/B086GXTCC9

Amazon to the rescue!  ccasion14:

 

[swarfrat]

As long as you the fit is somewhere between drop in and finger pressure, you're good. The little bit of V is fine. The tuner has constant pressure from one side and is fixed from rotation. It falls under "not super critical, just don't embarrass yourself".

Oh yeah, before I drill anything, I'd make sure the screw hole to post hole lines up with your tuners. That's the critical dimension. If those are off you could have visible scars

 

[DuckBaloo]

How are you measuring the holes?

• If you have a digital caliper, then you can double-check the scale of the jig and make sure the drill spots are right
• If the scale of the jig is correct for where you need to drill holes, then you can just sand down the jig's peg until it presses into the peghole

You already confirmed the tuners fit, the jig only needs to fit well enough to drill the holes. I wouldn't alter the neck for a temporary jig.

But if you fit the whole jig is off of 5 or 10% (most 3D printing shops are pretty accurate), you may want a different plan.

 

[stratamania]

You can get a jig for this purpose from StewMac in case you were not aware of it.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/jigs-and-fixtures-for-guitar-building-and-repair/tuner-pin-drill-jig/

 

[justsomeguy1]

Oh yeah, before I drill anything, I'd make sure the screw hole to post hole lines up with your tuners. That's the critical dimension. If those are off you could have visible scars

The plan is to mark the locator pins with a felt tip marker and press into place, then insert jig and check for alignment. But I'll also check scale of jig holes to tuner pins like DuckBaloo recommended as well.

How are you measuring the holes?

• If you have a digital caliper, then you can double-check the scale of the jig and make sure the drill spots are right
• If the scale of the jig is correct for where you need to drill holes, then you can just sand down the jig's peg until it presses into the peghole

You already confirmed the tuners fit, the jig only needs to fit well enough to drill the holes. I wouldn't alter the neck for a temporary jig.

But if you fit the whole jig is off of 5 or 10% (most 3D printing shops are pretty accurate), you may want a different plan.

Yes using digital caliper. Will definitely check scale of jig holes compared to pin location on the tuners as an extra safety measure.

I'd agree that modifying the neck should be the last resort. I was going to sand the jig a little until I realized that the tuner holes are coming out to 9.60mm instead of 9.92mm as I was expecting from warmoth. The tuners do fit as is, but uncomfortably tight. Test fit a couple of holes and took a fair bit of force to get it started. I'm sure I could push them home the rest of the way but too tight in my inexperienced opinion. Maybe just some light sanding inside the tuner holes and slight sanding on the jig would do it.

You can get a jig for this purpose from StewMac in case you were not aware of it.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/jigs-and-fixtures-for-guitar-building-and-repair/tuner-pin-drill-jig/

Thanks for the link. Well aware of this tool but Stewmac is not Canadian friendly. I'd be looking at over $100 for that. Some luthiers on Reddit recommended the jig I had 3D printed. I think if the tuner holes weren't each 1/64th smaller than expected, I'd be in business. The jig only barely does not fit.

I could always cut this 3D print jig in half as well.

 

[justsomeguy1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1wsYlu1HIc

This is my plan as of now (except I'll use scrap wood to drill through first, more precise than cardboard imo) though once I verify scale of jig. If I discover that the jig isn't to scale and the tuner holes that Warmoth drilled isn't the issue, I'll drop the plan.

 

[stratamania]

I get stuff from StewMac and I am in Europe. I have StewMax and that way if you are likely to order a few things a year it makes it more affordable shipping wise.

 

[DangerousR6]

Thanks for taking a look and the suggestions.

I didn't print this myself so I cannot check calibration. There's 3D printing shop down the road that I paid $10 to in order for them to print the jig. It's an assumption but I'd assume their machines are properly calibrated, pretty highly regarded shop around here. Ya never know though!

Also found this, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4883858 it looks the exact same to me.

I love the idea of 3D printing but am not confident in my ability to learn the design software. I have no artistic ability, I still use stick figures haha. Spent a few hours going through a fusion tutorial and didn't feel like I was really grasping it. Maybe I'll give it another shot, I'm really quite fond of the technology.

I'll likely just use that dowel and sandpaper idea. I like using the right tools for the job but 1/64" is so small I should be fine without a reamer.

Thanks!

Fushion 360 is really not for novice cad users. I've been a cad/cam user for over 30 years, I've used everything from AutoCad to UG/NX. And it took me some time to get used to Fushion...

 

[justsomeguy1]

Ream and drill to 10mm worked like a charm. Perfect jig and tuner fit.

Only did the first two holes. The rough drill marks on the other 4 holes are as received from factory.