Aluminum "Acoustic Looking" strat bridge....the work begins

thanks for the comments :icon_biggrin:

I wanted to get an idea of what it looked like on a guitar so I just layed it across my bridge and took a pic. Actually, I think with a modified pickgard and moving the controls a bit it wouldn't look to bad on a strat......even though it's not going on this one. However, one done in ziricote, madagascar ebony or claro walnut wouldn't look to bad on old driftwood.....hummmmm. It has a blocked tem so I wouln't have to worry about that, just use the 3 holes for the trem block...maybe :icon_scratch:
 

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That actually looks pretty good, I agree a ziricote or walnut even would look better on 'ol Drifty.... :dontknow:
 
I think I'll give it a shot.....I mean for under $10 buck and a couple hours I could have one made.....I think I'll give it a try. If I don't like it I'll just use it on another build. I'll have to rework the pickguard but that's no biggie.....I think it'll look pretty frickin cool. :headbang:
 
Being made of a solid piece of metal should give you a bit more sustain than the stock bridge... :icon_thumright:
 
I found a very nice piece of wenge to use for the bridge.....it'll match the neck/headstock. I'm going to inlay a piece of either steel or aluminum in the wood bridge for the saddle adjustment screws to sit on. I'm sure I'll mess around with it a bit once it's building time since this is the prototype. I think it would add a unique look on guitars that keep the original wood grain, each one would be unique and built to spec. Think I'll build a few different styles and see what happens. Guess we'll see what the wood will look like on "Ol Drifty" Orders anyone :icon_biggrin:
 
wenge ordered.....hope to get started next weekend :cool01:

Does anyone know what size the intonation screws are for fender saddles? I'm not going to use the standard pan head screw, I want them to sit flush so I'm going to go with a black flat hex or allen screw.
 
I'm not sure how much material you're leaving on the end but you could also potentially just countersink/counterbore the holes for the saddle/intonation adjustment screws so that they're hidden and be able to use stock screws from whichever saddles someone requests.

This is a great concept, very nice work!
 
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