Toulouse_Tuhles
Senior Member
- Messages
- 236
Not much new to share, as this is not going to be more than just a Telecaster: Plain, simple, pure....
Most of the hardware is what Fender sells as parts. The jackplate will be some recessed aftermarket that looked nice. And I'm going with a LP type toggle rather than Tele blade/wafer type. Just to be a little different :icon_smile:
One thing I will say, is that I'm being rather anal-retentive on the screw hole sizes, the string cup sizes. For instance, my string cups measured .313, and I slowly reamed the holes from whatever they were to .3125 reamer size. The cups pressed in by thumb pressure alone, with one tiny tap from a brass punch in the cup to "seat" 'em.
Same thing for the bridge screw holes, the major diameter was .142 and the minor diameter was .108 inches. In between, the holes were opened to .123 (the 1/8 drill I had handy was a little under size. Strap buttons were the same size screws, but I went with a .110 drill since they take more abuse (and go in the end grain, not cross grain).
Most of the hardware is what Fender sells as parts. The jackplate will be some recessed aftermarket that looked nice. And I'm going with a LP type toggle rather than Tele blade/wafer type. Just to be a little different :icon_smile:
One thing I will say, is that I'm being rather anal-retentive on the screw hole sizes, the string cup sizes. For instance, my string cups measured .313, and I slowly reamed the holes from whatever they were to .3125 reamer size. The cups pressed in by thumb pressure alone, with one tiny tap from a brass punch in the cup to "seat" 'em.
Same thing for the bridge screw holes, the major diameter was .142 and the minor diameter was .108 inches. In between, the holes were opened to .123 (the 1/8 drill I had handy was a little under size. Strap buttons were the same size screws, but I went with a .110 drill since they take more abuse (and go in the end grain, not cross grain).
