24 3/4 conversion strat

[fuzznut]

I believe that tele bridge would be WAY easier. :icon_biggrin:

That's one pretty drop topped and bound strat! Something that looks like that deserves a proper finish, something I can't do at this point. This first guitar will wind up pedestrian looking, some aniline dye, shellac to seal and Tru-oil for the finish. I have some spray guns, but my experience is limited to spraying conversion varnish on cabinetry. I might attempt to do a real finish on the ash or limba guitars (apparently I have to make 3 now, lol), and at that point will need some help from the experts. Would need to get buffing/polishing equipment. Can't spray in the basement, would have to be in the garage when its warm out again.

 

[Cagey]

A fine, professional-grade lacquer finish isn't particularly difficult, it's just tedious and time-consuming, and most of the time is in waiting, not working. It's about a 6 to 8 week process to do it right. On the plus side, you don't need a professional spray booth - lacquer is fairly forgiving and easy to deal with. It's not quite as durable as polyurethane, but it's a lot prettier and more durable than just about anything else you'll put on a guitar. I've done a number of bodies with it without having a proper stand buffer and gotten fantastic results. It's just a lot more work doing it by hand.

 

[fuzznut]

I have other Warmoth guitars. The black one is an ash Warmoth that I bought in 2003. It sonically didn't fit the sound of the band I was in at the time, so I bought the alder tobacco burst body shortly afterwards. It had a Warmoth neck on it until a few years ago when I put a mighty mite neck on it. The frets are already worn out on that thing, time to get another warmoth neck with SS frets for it. The black one has been sitting in my attic for 12 years, baking and freezing, but the finish still looks great! I bought a new warmoth neck for it last month and put it back together.

 

[fuzznut]

A fine, professional-grade lacquer finish isn't particularly difficult, it's just tedious and time-consuming, and most of the time is in waiting, not working. It's about a 6 to 8 week process to do it right. On the plus side, you don't need a professional spray booth - lacquer is fairly forgiving and easy to deal with. It's not quite as durable as polyurethane, but it's a lot prettier and more durable than just about anything else you'll put on a guitar. I've done a number of bodies with it without having a proper stand buffer and gotten fantastic results. It's just a lot more work doing it by hand.

Ok sounds like its doable, I'd have a guitar made already, so it would be no rush for the 2nd one. The weather here will be in the 70s in May, so I would have to wait till then. Do you mind if I pick your brain when I attempt it?

 

[Cagey]

Not at all. In the meantime, you may want to review this article. Ignoring the brand names, it's a pretty solid description of the process.

 

[fdesalvo]

Awesome thread.  I'd personally love you to keep the square body motif and paint it to resemble a box of pizza. 

 

[fuzznut]

Soooo... It was a strat, now it is a strat with some design liberties  :icon_tongue:
Figured I'd save some drum sanding time after bandsawing by using a 2" straight bit with bearing on the router table for the sides. Hahahahahaha, I knew it would happen. 3/4" of the upper horn, gone. :sad: Don't go to work all day, come home tired, and work on stuff that requires your utmost attention.  :dontknow:
So the body is less horny.  :laughing3: I reshaped it a bit so it looks intentional  :laughing11:

 

[Cagey]

Doesn't hurt it a bit. Looks good.

That wasn't a mistake at all. You designed it that way.​

Yeah, that's the ticket! I designed it that way! Yeah! Me and uh...Leo! Yeah!​

 

[fuzznut]

:toothy11: :toothy11: :toothy11: :toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy11: :toothy11: :toothy11:

 

[fdesalvo]

I really like the shape. It's fresh.

 

[rgand]

I agree. The modified shape is a good, balanced look.

 

[fdesalvo]

I agree. The modified shape is a good, balanced look.

Kinda strikes the balance between an old Kramer and Fender. I dig!

 

[BigSteve22]

Mistake? I wouldn't have noticed either, looks like an intentional design change.
:icon_thumright:

 

[fuzznut]

Boring stuff today. Made a pickguard template. I didn't do the neck area because I will be cutting that manually around the neck instead of it being under it. I hate having to remove the neck every time I need to remove the pickguard. Also, the pointy part will need to be reshaped to match my "custom" horn shape.  :laughing3:

 

[rgand]

Nice template. I also don't like removing the neck to take the PG off. Won't you be able to see under the extension by cutting around it? I have considered cutting the extension off to remove the extra fret but then I wouldn't have the extra fret.

 

[Cagey]

I also don't like removing the neck to take the PG off.

Yet another reason to install threaded inserts in the neck heel. Not only makes removal/installation easier, it doesn't wear out the holes in the heel like wood screws will.

 

[rgand]

I also don't like removing the neck to take the PG off.

Yet another reason to install threaded inserts in the neck heel. Not only makes removal/installation easier, it doesn't wear out the holes in the heel like wood screws will.

I know you're right. One of these days I need to do both my Warmoth necks. Maybe I'll just wait until I have a few more so I can do a handful at once.  :icon_biggrin:

 

[Cagey]

Yeah, once you're set up, you can sorta "batch process" them. Drill all the 1/4" holes, then all the 3/8" reliefs, then do all the tapping, then thread all the inserts in. Wear your wrist out, and have to change beer holder hands.

 

[fuzznut]

I don't have a gap in the "prototype", but that's because I routed the neck pocket deeper than normal. Looking at my regular strats, yeah there would be a void there. Maybe paint that area black so it's less noticable  :icon_tongue:



I put inserts (steel, not brass) in my first Warmoth neck, because I had to remove the pickguard occasionally to replace the battery for the active pickups. Now I figure, if I ever strip out a neck hole (and I haven't so far), that would be a good time to install inserts  :icon_biggrin:

 

[rgand]

Yeah, once you're set up, you can sorta "batch process" them. Drill all the 1/4" holes, then all the 3/8" reliefs, then do all the tapping, then thread all the inserts in. Wear your wrist out, and have to change beer holder hands.

:icon_biggrin: