Wraparound bridge recomendations
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Cagey
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reluctant-builder said:
Whoever told you that a 13" radius bridge would be good with a neck that ends on a 16" radius may not have understood what you were asking. If you're using a fixed-radius bridge, you'd end up with strings that are sitting too tall in the middle. If you're using a bridge with adjustable saddle heights, then you can essentially create your own radius. If you're using a compound radius neck such as Warmoth sells, which runs between 10" at the nut and 16" at the heel, you want at least a 16" radius at the bridge, and to be perfect, I think it needs to be in the neighborhood of 18.5". But, depending on string gauges, fret wear, personal preferences, etc., an inch or two one way or the other may be desirable or even necessary. So, yeah. You usually want adjustable saddles. If you don't have them, then you end up raising or lowering a whole side of the bridge, which can cause other compromises.
It's unlikely you're going to find any compound radius necks at GC.
Patrick from Davis
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If it hasn't been said before, the compound radius fingerboard is basically the surface of a cone. Near the tip, more radius, near the bridge, less radius. For something like a tune-o-matic bridge that doesn't allow you to adjust the individual heights of the strings, you have to file the intonation doohickey's. They make diamond needle files that you can buy from Amazon that are not very expensive that I use to do this kind of work. If Amazon has them, other outlets will as well. The suggestion of Dan Erlewine's book is also a very good one. It clearly explains a lot of these issues.
Patrick
Patrick
Jusatele
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I have tried to stay out of this,
But here goes
Unless the bridge has a way change it's radius, it should only be used on a fixed radius neck or a guitar only used for slide
Remember that a neck may start at 10 degrees, and end at 16, but if you put a 16 degree bridge on that you would be out of alignment with the neck, the angle does not stop growing till you hit the bridge, so tell me, just what is the degree once it gets to the neck? and that answer varies with scale length.
A very important of setting up a guitar properly is setting up the neck so the action is correct and consistent, with a fixed bridge that is impossible therefore fixed bridges are not a viable alternative.
But here goes
Unless the bridge has a way change it's radius, it should only be used on a fixed radius neck or a guitar only used for slide
Remember that a neck may start at 10 degrees, and end at 16, but if you put a 16 degree bridge on that you would be out of alignment with the neck, the angle does not stop growing till you hit the bridge, so tell me, just what is the degree once it gets to the neck? and that answer varies with scale length.
A very important of setting up a guitar properly is setting up the neck so the action is correct and consistent, with a fixed bridge that is impossible therefore fixed bridges are not a viable alternative.
Have you ever played a guitar with a fixed bridge and a compound radius? My Dinky is a string through TOM and I have absolutey no problems whatsoever. The compound radius works as advertised. The thing is, a neck radius is also fixed so having a fixed bridge is fine. Once its set its good. It's no different than having a TOM on any other guitar. You still can't adjust individual string height. Instead of pissing and moaning about theories and assumptions go out and play one. Yes setting a bridge for a compound radius neck is a compromise. That's true for any bridge you use. Regardless of what adjustment points it has. Besides its still a helluva lot better than a Tele bridge.
Actually, we've been over this - a warmoth 10-16 compound radius neck takes about 18.5" radius at the bridge. But I doubt you can visually tell or physically feel the difference between a 16 and an 18.5 radius. I have good vision and I can't. Plus, you want the action slightly higher on the bass side anyhow. Just use a 16" radius gauge to check the relative string height at the highest fret, after getting your E strings to the height you like them. If your bridge isn't adjustable for individual string height, then file the saddles down as needed.Teletuby said:
reluctant-builder
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pabloman said:
Thanks for the amiable sentiment, there, but it's hard enough finding ordinary guitars to play as a lefty, let alone one with a compound radius. So, without practical examples of how something actually plays, I try to allay my lack of understanding by asking questions. It's a pretty novel concept, I know.
Keep those helpful suggestions coming, though.
Jusatele
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I have read it all, and it is my opinion you should have an adjustable bridge for action purposes. go out and buy an acoustic bridge if you want 1800s technology, the reason a electric is so much easier to play than an acoustic is you have so much adjustability.tfarny said:
And I have played a Tune a Matic I find it has major issues. Two best playing guitars I have both have fully adjustable bridges
Hey Tele I know the saddle height is adjustable on a telestet bridge. My comment was more of about the overall bridge performance. Besides it was really meant to be tongue in cheek. I should have used the joker icon. I know you have played a TOM, I was asking if you played one on a compound radius. Sure its easier to adjust a set screw than it is to file a saddle. That's the reason most guys don't do it or have it done. All I'm sayin is set one up right and there's no issues.
Reluctant...........my comment wasn't towards you. It was to anyone chiming in without ever actually playing that particular setup yet speaking as they know. In an earlier post you said you'd be willing to try one that was stung properly( :icon_jokercolor
. GC does have them. Good luck with all of this. :headbang1:
. GC does have them. Good luck with all of this. :headbang1:
Jusatele
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Pablo, if I had an issue with you you would not be on my friends ccasion14: list
the Tele bridge may not be perfect, but it is an icon for the sound put out
notice I did state in my post, they are opinions
After all, no one has ever said what was right or wrong, and what sells best is never close to correct to a lot of guys, that is why there are always #2
ccasion14: listthe Tele bridge may not be perfect, but it is an icon for the sound put out
notice I did state in my post, they are opinions
After all, no one has ever said what was right or wrong, and what sells best is never close to correct to a lot of guys, that is why there are always #2
reluctant-builder
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pabloman said:Reluctant...........my comment wasn't towards you. It was to anyone chiming in without ever actually playing that particular setup yet speaking as they know. In an earlier post you said you'd be willing to try one that was stung properly( :icon_jokercolor
Hey, Pablo. Sorry for taking umbrage; I couldn't quite tell. I appreciate the clarification and I'll be sure to check one of the compound radius axes out, if I find one ... even if it is in reverse.
Jusatele
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I had tried a compound radius before building Barn Door, the reason she does not have a form of Tele bridge is because of the limitations of a tele bridge, instead she got a Fender Am Std Strat Bridge. It is a very nice hardtail and is set up for string thru which I like.
I like wrap around bridges for the style, but that is another bridge I have not owned in years, I see PRS is using one now but is it adjustable ? I do not know.
Some times we accept a bridge for the style of guitar we use, such as a TOM on a 335 or a Tele 3 saddle bridge on a vintage Fender, I think chasing the Holy Grail is what we do here sometimes on this forum, If the bridge is what you want, and you are willing to accept that, Go for it.
After all, I like Vintage late 60s early 70s Tele Bridges because of the sound they put out and how the ribbed saddles look, I do not apologize for the intunation problems, I just go for it.
And Rock and Roll is all about going for it, Could you imagine Rock history without the Ramones ? The Stones ? The New York Dolls ? Those bands never apologized for anything, they just went with it.
I like wrap around bridges for the style, but that is another bridge I have not owned in years, I see PRS is using one now but is it adjustable ? I do not know.
Some times we accept a bridge for the style of guitar we use, such as a TOM on a 335 or a Tele 3 saddle bridge on a vintage Fender, I think chasing the Holy Grail is what we do here sometimes on this forum, If the bridge is what you want, and you are willing to accept that, Go for it.
After all, I like Vintage late 60s early 70s Tele Bridges because of the sound they put out and how the ribbed saddles look, I do not apologize for the intunation problems, I just go for it.
And Rock and Roll is all about going for it, Could you imagine Rock history without the Ramones ? The Stones ? The New York Dolls ? Those bands never apologized for anything, they just went with it.
Shoot. Well, I bought the TonePros II and I was just doing a mock up and noticed that the post hole spacing on my body is 2 7/8 (maybe as much as 2 29/32). Does anyone know of wrap around bridges with narrower post hole spacing? I couldn't find anything with a quick search.
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