wizard neck relief

[Smpl9]

my new warmoth neck arrived and i bolted it onto me strat. it has the same 10-16 compound radius as the previous neck that was on the strat. same length, same radius though thinner neck body.

new frets are .010 taller than the previous ones.

since this is a wizard neck the truss rod adjustment is on the side and right now, after stringing the guitar up the relief at 8th is ~.021.

i want to ask, turning this side mount adjustment hex is the same as if it were in the head stock?  like, righty tighty, etc?

i would like to get the relief down a bit. it will need to settle in a bit and treaked

 

[Cagey]

That's correct. Be sure to loosen the strings before you try to take up any relief, then re-tension them after you've got it where you think you want it.

 

[Wyliee]

Remember the side adjust is for fine tuning only.  Do your basic adjustments at the heel.

 

[Smpl9]

ok, thanks for the tips.

darn, as for the heel, i've already got it bolted on, so only the side fine tune nut shows.

well, i could loosen the strings and unbolt it if need be or just cut the strings. my D'addarios' cost only 5.89 so which ever is the preferred way.

is now the time to unbolt it and make a big adjustment or wait a few weeks and let her settle into it a bit? i say big adjustment in that i'd like to get the relief about .008-.010.

she plays good now. pretty cool for just bolting on a new neck

appreciate the tips


ps:  i practed last nite for a few hours and not once did my left hand cramp!!  and raw wood is so slick too my hands just didn't confrom to the clapton model sorry to say.

 

[Strat Avenger]

ok, thanks for the tips.

darn, as for the heel, i've already got it bolted on, so only the side fine tune nut shows.

well, i could loosen the strings and unbolt it if need be or just cut the strings. my D'addarios' cost only 5.89 so which ever is the preferred way.

is now the time to unbolt it and make a big adjustment or wait a few weeks and let her settle into it a bit? i say big adjustment in that i'd like to get the relief about .008-.010.

she plays good now. pretty cool for just bolting on a new neck

appreciate the tips


ps:  i practed last nite for a few hours and not once did my left hand cramp!!  and raw wood is so slick too my hands just didn't confrom to the clapton model sorry to say.

You don't need to waste the strings. Just put a capo across them at the first fret, and loosen them enough to separate the neck from the body.

 

[line6man]

i want to ask, turning this side mount adjustment hex is the same as if it were in the head stock?  like, righty tighty, etc?

Didn't you read the instructions that came with it?

 

[Smpl9]

i want to ask, turning this side mount adjustment hex is the same as if it were in the head stock?  like, righty tighty, etc?

Didn't you read the instructions that came with it?

obviously not, a bit embarrassed to admit.  ok, so i found the instructions and wrench. didn't dawn on me since other strat necks didn't have this but this being me first 'wizard type' neck...

well, guess i owe an apology to those who answered.  sorry bout that!

 

[ezas]

No apology needed, that's how everyone learns.

My original plan was to ignore the side adjuster since I'd read of the troubles some had with it. But I have to admit I changed my mind when my neck needed a slight tweak and I didn't need to tear my guitar down when I had no other reason to pull my guitar apart. I only used it once, but it did what it's supposed to do with no fuss. Damn modern pro necks are rock stable.

 

[Cagey]

Damn modern pro necks are rock stable.

No kidding. I have a bunch of them here made of a variety of woods and have worked with many more, and they're magical. It seems Warmoth is religious about seasoning their wood properly and in combination with the dual-action truss rod, their necks are remarkably stable. Set 'em and forget 'em.

 

[ezas]

Now if they could make them lighter, they would be perfect. My 24" neck weighs a touch more than than the 25.5" vintage modern neck I put on a friends strat guitar and his neck has slightly heavier tuners!

 

[Cagey]

Weight is certainly something to consider. I recently had a Rosewood over Maple neck here with vintage modern construction that only weighed 1 1/4 pounds, while my "Pro" version Aframosia neck weighs over 2 pounds. Some of it is probably the wood, but almost all my necks are "Pro" versions and they're all heavier than dammit, so I gotta think that extra truss rod is adding some serious mass.

 

[Smpl9]

yep, the instructions helped. ;-) duh?

~.009-.010 relief at 8th

3/64 lo-E at 12th str height
4/64 hi-E at 12th str height

20 radius at bridge (stew-mac 20-gauge)

no buzz and plays easy for me hands & ears at this setting. so i leave it as is for now. she'll settle a bit i guess.


this neck sure feels lighter than the mahogany/kingwood. but that that neck was a bit wider and thicker too.

i'm happy as a bug in a rug its worked out well so far. thanks for all the tips folks, really big help!! and thanks Warmoth for the nice easy fitt'n neck!

pots on, gas on hi ...

 

[ezas]

Any particular reason you went with 20" radius? You don't say but I'm assuming its a Warmoth 10"-16".

 

[Patrick from Davis]

If you think of the radius getting larger, or the fret board getting flatter, as you go from the nut to the 22 fret it is 12" to 16".  If the fret board went the entire body length, it would continue to flatten until it got to the bridge.  At the bridge it would have a ~20" radius if you follow the rate of change of the compound radius.  A little odd to think about, but once you get it, the clouds go away, and the sun comes out.
Patrick

 

[Smpl9]

Any particular reason you went with 20" radius? You don't say but I'm assuming its a Warmoth 10"-16".

two reasons:

1.  i have a set of stew-mac gauges, and only 16 or 20 to help with a 10-16 compound neck. i've tried 16 & 20 and 20 suits me a bit better - currently. 

2. as patrick mentioned, that conical shape grows a bit from the 22nd fret to the bridge. i think, but don't quote me, actual math might bring it closer to ~18.5 close to the bridge on my strat but i don't have a 18 gauge.

i use the 16 or 20 as  a starting point and once in awhile make mini-tweaks. its more for how the pick feels in my hand when strumming but the gauges help in a general way after i get the lo-E & hi-E set to a height i feel ok with.

well, that is my uneducated reason for doing it. for me its still a "feel" thing after using the gauge.  but my nerves are weird anyways in what they perceive from hitting or stroking the strings.

 

[Jumble Jumble]

Here's an article I wrote a while back on extending the 10-16" radius down to the bridge. I get 18.34" as the bridge radius.

http://www.jumbleguitar.com/2012/04/17/bridge-logic-revisited/

 

[fdesalvo]

If the last fret is 16" and the saddle radius is set to 16", then I would imagine you have a 16" straight radius from that last fret to the bridge, correct?

 

[SustainerPlayer]

If the last fret is 16" and the saddle radius is set to 16", then I would imagine you have a 16" straight radius from that last fret to the bridge, correct?

If the radius at the nut is 10" then both the last fret and the bridge can't be having the same radius.

A 10" to 16" compound radius neck makes the radius at the bridge approx. 18,5".

EDIT: Jumble Jumble already gave that answer ... sorry.

 

[ocguy106]

obviously not, a bit embarrassed to admit.  ok, so i found the instructions and wrench. didn't dawn on me since other strat necks didn't have this but this being me first 'wizard type' neck...

well, guess i owe an apology to those who answered.  sorry bout that!

You do realize that wizard is the profile of the neck and has nothing to do with the side adjustment. The side adjusment is avalible on all of thier neck profiles. The side adjustment is a function of the Warmoth Pro necks

Ken

 

[Jumble Jumble]

If the last fret is 16" and the saddle radius is set to 16", then I would imagine you have a 16" straight radius from that last fret to the bridge, correct?

This would mean that the strings changed radius steadily until the 22nd fret, and then somehow stayed at the same radius until the bridge. That would mean that when you tuned up your guitar, the strings would have a corner in them above the 22nd fret!