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Wiring a 500k Push/Pull Pot as a bridge pickup tone and coil tap?

Cagey said:
You know what the common denominator is in all the capacitor testing videos? Nobody checks the value of the capacitors they use. They all rely on the marked value, as if it has any relation to the real value, which it never does. They can be off by 20% or more. Some guy hooks up a half dozen various caps to a switching arrangement of some sort, all of which may be marked as .022µF parts, and never bothers to check to see if that's what their actual capacitance is. Then, surprise! They sound different! Well, duh! Whaddaya expect?

Yep. The common scenario is for someone to start with something terrible like a ceramic capacitor (they can be as bad as 80%), and then swap it for the flavor of the month expensive capacitor, without checking the capacitance difference. The value changes dramatically, and that causes a noticeable change in the behavior of the tone control, so they swear that the new capacitor sounds better. Interestingly, the change in tone is always perceived to be better.

Cagey said:
No matter how or what it's made out of, a capacitor of a given value will always behave the same way.

This is quite far from the truth. Capacitance is only one part of the story, when you are spec'ing out capacitors. There is an equivalent series resistance, as well as an equivalent series inductance, and some amount of parallel resistance, interacting with that basic property of capacitance. Different types of capacitors will also exhibit various nonlinear behaviors, including sensitivity to temperature. Ceramic capacitors, in particular, are noted for their microphonic nature.

Of course, none of it matters for a guitar tone control. There is really no voltage or current to speak of, and nor is there anything wacky going on, like ultra high frequencies, or high temperature environments.
 
@line6man. From what you say I'm guessing the answer to this must be no, but can any of the non-linear or microphonic characteristics of different cap types cause any 'peakiness' at or above the roll-off point (within the audible frequency range)? Or will any 2 caps of the same actual measured value always result in the same, completely smooth, roll-off curve?
 
Fat Pete said:
@line6man. From what you say I'm guessing the answer to this must be no, but can any of the non-linear or microphonic characteristics of different cap types cause any 'peakiness' at or above the roll-off point (within the audible frequency range)? Or will any 2 caps of the same actual measured value always result in the same, completely smooth, roll-off curve?

There is simply no way you could ever hear a difference, other than if you heard it because of the power of suggestion. Even an objective analysis of the waveforms is not likely to show much difference.
 
pabloman said:
Ok.....I'll bite, please axplain to me how I might be naive. Where in the effing video does he say anything like "PIO sounds better than ceramic" or anything close to that? All he says is there's a lot of talk of them sounding different, see for your self if they do.

After which he describes an approach that is absolutely worthless. And you can read the reviews on the site with all sorts of glowing reviews of the "high-end" caps. So, first you undermine the people who know how caps work ("No one can tell you!"), then you offer up a testing procedure that, lacking basic controls, lends itself to misleading results.

And would you say the same thing if he was a high end home audio guy selling expensive audiophile grade power receptacles (i.e. the thing on the wall you plug your power cord into) or audiophile grade network cables? Those are real products by the way, and I suppose the people who buy them will "just use their ears" and decide for themselves.

Being pro knowledge you should understand how difficult a truely objective test would be to perform. I'm guessing that's why they aren't done. There's just way too many variables. I mean a strings tone degrades with every pluck right? No two guitars are the same. Barometric pressure will affect vibration from a scientific stand point too right?

Actually it's reasonably easy - it's just an electronic signal hitting the cap so you could take a recording, do some reasonable level and impedance matching of the signal, and then you can test it through both quantitative measurement and double blind audio tests with all of the necessary controls.

Drew I gotta say I don't think you are as "pro-knowledge as you'd like to think. It is absolutely idiotic to try and quantify sound.

Lots of things can be (and are) quantified. All sorts of noise, distortion, level, frequency and phase measurements are made all the time. The limits of human hearing are also well established from careful research done over a very long time.

Interestingly, there's this amazing coincidence where the stuff people claim they hear that's out of line with everything that's known from decades of careful research is the very stuff they can no longer hear when subjected to controlled listening tests. This coincidence is of course blamed on the "stress" of the test, among various other things.

IOW it turns out that the subjective stuff that "can't be quantified" almost always fails under more carefully controlled subjective testing.

Of course I'm talking about technology, not art. I wouldn't argue that you can quantify beauty or exhilaration in music, though I wouldn't be surprised if there were people out there trying.

You realize by nature sound is subjective right? It's a perception. Most learned folks understand this. So again, in the video he says "sound". Thats it.

The word "sound" both refers to the transmission of pressure changes through a medium such as air as well as something subjectively perceived. Now generally those two things coincide as the perceived "sound" is triggered by the sound wave entering the ear, getting shaped and filtered by the ear and then triggering auditory nerves going to the brain. But unfortunately the brain messes with things at a low level and at times things are consciously perceived that have nothing to do with what entered via the auditory nerves. I don't much care about the imaginary "sound" itself, but it does bother me when people try to charge objectively real money for imaginary stuff. Or argue about it as if the imaginary stuff wasn't imaginary.

And there are ways of getting objectively valid data from subjective tests.

From a practical standpoint it depends onwhat we are doing - if we are listening to two different sounding things to determine which we prefer, that's a purely subjective decision and casual methods are fine.

But if we are involved in some way in a discussion about differences that - oops - might not be real based on lots of objective knowledge or research, then we have entered objective reality and either need to be not pretend we are talking about something objectively real (and worth spending objectively real money on it) or else behave objectively. Do we talk about the dreams we had last night as if they were real world occurrences?
 
Drew, it is apparent you are missing my point. Entirely. I understand your argument. Most of it is valid. I've already given this topic way more attention than it deserves.    :rock-on:
 
I've been on guitar forums for a good decade now, and about two-thirds of all of the threads about tone control capacitors end up with lively debates about something or other. It goes with the territory, when discussing this particular subject.

 
Only two thirds? You must have an aversion to or be very adept at avoiding capacitor threads. I'd have put the number closer to nine tenths :icon_biggrin:
 
Woah, debates are happening. :headbang1:

So I love the 500k pots with the Twangmaster. The Alnico slugs are warm enough where I dig the hotter sound.

BUT, I wired the pickups out of phase :doh:, and somehow wired both tones as master tones. the PRS tone pot I used (intending to be the Twangmaster tone) is pretty cool cause it's actually a .033uf.

I'm gonna be trying to fix the wiring problems soon...If anyone is feeling charitable, I'd really appreciate a diagram for this. :icon_jokercolor:

So I have a the Twangmaster in the neck, a Van Zandt Humbucker in the bridge, 3-way blade switch, master volume, neck tone, and bridge tone with a coil split. Anyone have input for what I did wrong?
 
LushTone said:
Woah, debates are happening. :headbang1:

So I love the 500k pots with the Twangmaster. The Alnico slugs are warm enough where I dig the hotter sound.

BUT, I wired the pickups out of phase :doh:, and somehow wired both tones as master tones. the PRS tone pot I used (intending to be the Twangmaster tone) is pretty cool cause it's actually a .033uf.

I'm gonna be trying to fix the wiring problems soon...If anyone is feeling charitable, I'd really appreciate a diagram for this. :icon_jokercolor:

So I have a the Twangmaster in the neck, a Van Zandt Humbucker in the bridge, 3-way blade switch, master volume, neck tone, and bridge tone with a coil split. Anyone have input what I did wrong?

I'll draw a diagram within a few days, if you don't find one sooner.
 
line6man said:
LushTone said:
Woah, debates are happening. :headbang1:

So I love the 500k pots with the Twangmaster. The Alnico slugs are warm enough where I dig the hotter sound.

BUT, I wired the pickups out of phase :doh:, and somehow wired both tones as master tones. the PRS tone pot I used (intending to be the Twangmaster tone) is pretty cool cause it's actually a .033uf.

I'm gonna be trying to fix the wiring problems soon...If anyone is feeling charitable, I'd really appreciate a diagram for this. :icon_jokercolor:

So I have a the Twangmaster in the neck, a Van Zandt Humbucker in the bridge, 3-way blade switch, master volume, neck tone, and bridge tone with a coil split. Anyone have input what I did wrong?

I'll draw a diagram within a few days, if you don't find one sooner.

Thanks line6man! I appreciate the help. You probably already know this, but the Twangmaster is a single conducter, humbucking single coil.
 

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I was going to draw that diagram now, but I realized there is one bit of info missing.
What do you mean by coil split? Series/North Coil? Series/South Coil? Series/Parallel? Series/North Coil/Parallel? Something else?
 
line6man said:
I was going to draw that diagram now, but I realized there is one bit of info missing.
What do you mean by coil split? Series/North Coil? Series/South Coil? Series/Parallel? Series/North Coil/Parallel? Something else?

Oh gotcha, I want the slug coil of the humbucker. As far as the middle position of the 3-way, I want it to blend the two pickups just like a Gibson or Tele would blend the neck and bridge pickups. I'm not sure if that's series or parallel. I appreciate the help!  :help:
 
LushTone said:
line6man said:
I was going to draw that diagram now, but I realized there is one bit of info missing.
What do you mean by coil split? Series/North Coil? Series/South Coil? Series/Parallel? Series/North Coil/Parallel? Something else?

Oh gotcha, I want the slug coil of the humbucker. As far as the middle position of the 3-way, I want it to blend the two pickups just like a Gibson or Tele would blend the neck and bridge pickups. I'm not sure if that's series or parallel. I appreciate the help!  :help:

So Series/North Coil?
 
line6man said:
LushTone said:
line6man said:
I was going to draw that diagram now, but I realized there is one bit of info missing.
What do you mean by coil split? Series/North Coil? Series/South Coil? Series/Parallel? Series/North Coil/Parallel? Something else?

Oh gotcha, I want the slug coil of the humbucker. As far as the middle position of the 3-way, I want it to blend the two pickups just like a Gibson or Tele would blend the neck and bridge pickups. I'm not sure if that's series or parallel. I appreciate the help!  :help:

So Series/North Coil?

I guess so, I'm unfamiliar with some of the terminology. But, when the two pickups are blended with the 3-way, I want full humbucker and the Twangmaster. But the north coil when coil split. Does that work?
 
LushTone said:
line6man said:
LushTone said:
line6man said:
I was going to draw that diagram now, but I realized there is one bit of info missing.
What do you mean by coil split? Series/North Coil? Series/South Coil? Series/Parallel? Series/North Coil/Parallel? Something else?

Oh gotcha, I want the slug coil of the humbucker. As far as the middle position of the 3-way, I want it to blend the two pickups just like a Gibson or Tele would blend the neck and bridge pickups. I'm not sure if that's series or parallel. I appreciate the help!  :help:

So Series/North Coil?

I guess so, I'm unfamiliar with some of the terminology. But, when the two pickups are blended with the 3-way, I want full humbucker and the Twangmaster. But the north coil when coil split. Does that work?

I'll draw the diagram tomorrow.
 
line6man said:
LushTone said:
line6man said:
LushTone said:
line6man said:
I was going to draw that diagram now, but I realized there is one bit of info missing.
What do you mean by coil split? Series/North Coil? Series/South Coil? Series/Parallel? Series/North Coil/Parallel? Something else?

Oh gotcha, I want the slug coil of the humbucker. As far as the middle position of the 3-way, I want it to blend the two pickups just like a Gibson or Tele would blend the neck and bridge pickups. I'm not sure if that's series or parallel. I appreciate the help!  :help:

So Series/North Coil?

I guess so, I'm unfamiliar with some of the terminology. But, when the two pickups are blended with the 3-way, I want full humbucker and the Twangmaster. But the north coil when coil split. Does that work?

I'll draw the diagram tomorrow.

Thank you, much appreciated :hello2:
 
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