Wilkinson Scimitar 6 (Schizoid Musiclander)

[Fat Pete]

Well here we go again... Finally got some real-world work done on this project. As usual for me, this one will take a while to complete and will be documented here as much for my benefit as anybody else's. So if you're looking for edge-of-the-seat thrills, you're probably better off looking elsewhere.

The 'Scimitar' name relates both to some design elements (just in the scratchplate now as I'm not using a custom headstock shape) and to the automotive naming 'tradition' started with my Corvette - the Scimitar GTE was a late 60s British 'Grand Tourer Estate*'. I used to own one of these:

* British 'estate' car = US station wagon. Not a lot in common with a Corvette - apart from the fibreglass.

Anyway, it arrived like this:

I'm converting it to front-routed so first job was to cut out the control area. Did this with hand tools.

Not perfectly tidy but nothing that will be visible with a scratchplate on.

Next up, enlarging and modifying the pickup routing to allow for the 2 or 3 different configurations this will have. Time to unleash the routerbeast!

All done. Finger count still at maximum = result!

That's it for now. Stay tuned...

 

[Fat Pete]

Meant to say - this follows on from here and here - and now, here!.

 

[Fat Pete]

The neck arrived - shipped 1 day short of 5 weeks from order. Warmoth Pro construction Arrow head, Clapton contour, ziricote over roasted maple, azurite malachite dots, 1 5/8", black graph tech nut. Very, very pleased with it.

Ziricote is interesting stuff up close - looks like this, feels like ebony.

The roasted maple feels great. Silky smooth out of the box and will only get more so when it gets the burnishing treatment.

Test fitted the tuners - closed gear Hipshot Grip Locks with 'UMP'. As others have noted, the mounting plates had to be filed a little to fit.

I'd previously not been convinced about the standard key shape on the Hipshots, but with all the weird scooped-out curves and cut off lines on this thing, I think they'll suit it just fine.

I'll have to wait and see how the neck pairs up with the body - hard to tell when it hasn't been painted yet!

 

[stratamania]

This is looking interesting. Nice neck by the way... And I think the standard Hipshot buttons work well with that neck, also would on a warhead.

 

[Jet-Jaguar]

Looking good!

 

[swarfrat]

This body is growing on me. I always have about 10x the ideas that I have space time or funds for, but it's on the short list, or perhaps the long list since it'd be a baritone.

 

[rgand]

This looks really good. I'll be following this one, for sure.

 

[fdesalvo]

I have been waiting on a build such as this.  Subscribed!

 

[Fat Pete]

Thanks guys - we'll see if you stick with it; There are some quite unusual features planned for this build.

Here's a tiny bit of progress while I'm waiting for the body to be painted.

Got these somewhat cheap looking spun aluminium knobs, partly because it fits in with the 60s/70s Japanese aesthetic (from which I have more or less completely deviated)...

...and partly (mainly) because they lend themselves to this treatment.

I'm a maniac, I know, but I find this kind of stuff both pretty cool and pretty funny. More weirdness to follow soon...

 

[Great Ape]

Let's hear it for weirdness! CARRY ON!! (Looks Great!)

 

[BigSteve22]

I like weird. Interesting shape, works well with the neck. I never really liked he stock Hipshot buttons either, but on this project, they do look good. 

 

[Fat Pete]

Overdue update time and it finds me in a quandary...

I paid amateur money for a paint job and, surprise surprise, got an amateur result.  :doh:

I have 3 basic options:
1. Keep it as is. It's going to be a strange beast anyway and other elements (crazy scratchplate and unusual headstock treatment) will probably catch the eye more than the paint. It looks just about ok from 10 feet away in the right lighting and a gentle westerly breeze.

2. Strip the paint and do something myself. It's nitro so certainly doable. Unfortunately I have the finishing skills of a trilobite.

3. Just spring for a new Warmoth finished body. Bank balance isn't too keen but it wouldn't kill me. Biggest issue with this is that it'd be a long wait for paint and probably a full custom build. It would also necessitate me taking a router to a finished body.

d. Strip the paint and pay someone else - again. Obviously I'd need more of a guaranteed good result which means a lot more money. Cheaper than option 3 but kinda feels like throwing good money after bad - even though that doesn't really make sense.

Thoughts, folks?

 

[fdesalvo]

Show us Whatchoo workin with.

Maybe the paint only needs to be wet sanded.  Let's see. There is no shame.

 

[swarfrat]

Yeah, if you're painting opaque and not changing colors, you can always sand it smooth and hit it again. I wouldn't despair just yet.

 

[Fat Pete]

Thanks guys. It is opaque (in theory) - a metallic burst. It's fairly heavy on the clear coat so I have wondered about trying to flat it properly. BUT, it's poor from the ground up. There are surface scratches/indentations in the wood (that I was assured wouldn't be a problem to fill) that are still visible - as is some of the wood grain - and we're talking about alder!

Also, I wasn't kidding about my finishing skills - put a piece of sandpaper in my hand and things will not improve!

I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

 

[Great Ape]

My first question would be, can you 'finish' or perhaps 'wet sand' the guy who messed up the body?
Oh well, maybe not (this time). If it's really unacceptable, I'd say strip it yourself, and then decide how to progress, rather than starting over at Warmoth...heck, you've got the body already, and already altered according to your original plan, y'know? Strip it, an' take it from there...GOOD LUCK
with it, it'll work out!

 

[Fat Pete]

My first question would be, can you 'finish' or perhaps 'wet sand' the guy who messed up the body?

:laughing7:
He's not exactly within easy reach. I'm sure he's still reeling from my stern email.

Here's where we're at:

Actually I don't think it looks too bad from a moderate distance. This is what the surface is like up close:

Examples of the marks (that I made in the bare wood). These wouldn't be a problem to fill apparently. As the wood grain is clearly visible, I'm not sure any kind of primer was used under the metallic base, let alone grain fill etc.:

Doesn't seem like there's any clear coat on the inside of the horns. It's hard to photograph but there's no shine at all here and it just feels rough.

Current mood indicates that I'll probably leave it as is. Or at least complete the build to see if the general concept works for me before attempting a refinish or replacing the body.

I was getting bad GAS yesterday and very nearly pulled the trigger on a new body - probably tobacco burst black korina. Between dithering between that or my more usual territory of solid/metallic/candy finishes and you guys' calming influence*, I've saved my self a small fortune - for now, so thanks for that!

*Sorry Warmoth.

 

[fdesalvo]

Have her wet sanded and buffed out. Won't be perfect but will look much better. This is assuming there's enough clear to remove before hitting flakes. I've been dying to see this thing built lol.  Love underdog builds.

 

[rgand]

Too bad he messed that up. Your color choice was really good one. I don't know the ins and outs of finishing but if you can save that, it'll look great.

 

[swarfrat]

Yeah, that was a nice choice.