Why tru-oil

RosamondEdge

Junior Member
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I know many people use it, and I use it on some things, and I want to know why some of you use it. What does it do besides "let the wood breathe" (I know someone will say it)?
Sell me on it.
 
I'm a big Tru Oil fan mainly because it fairly easy to work and get good results without expensive equipment and no spraying necessary. I've finished four guitar bodies in Tru Oil now, and they've all come out great! On the other hand, I've done spray finishes in nitro and polyurethane and comparatively they were both a pain in the rear and didn't come out quite as well as I hoped, not to mention a little more expensive.

Oil finishes don't "let the wood breathe", nor does any other finish worth applying. That's the whole point of applying a finish!
 
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For me, it's about aesthetics. It adds a lovely sheen without having to go through the rigamarole of setting up my spraying rig for a couple of coats of clear lacquer. And it's not as tacky in feel as wipe-on poly. I don't rely on it for any measure of protecting the wood (because it doesn't, from physical impact or the effects of humidity). It does, though, add a pretty "glow" to the wood.
 
For me, it's about aesthetics. It adds a lovely sheen without having to go through the rigamarole of setting up my spraying rig for a couple of coats of clear lacquer. And it's not as tacky in feel as wipe-on poly. I don't rely on it for any measure of protecting the wood (because it doesn't, from physical impact or the effects of humidity). It does, though, add a pretty "glow" to the wood.
If wipe on poly is feeling tacky for you, you are doing it wrong.
 
It cures hard as a rock if you stick to the “one wipe on coat per day” method. It polishes up nicely and is very durable.

Case in point. I had a AAAAA Birdseye Maple ‘98 Mauser custom rifle stock made in 1989 and it was my main “brush” rifle for hunting for years, open sited, very simple. It was a Tue Oil finish, and finally last year I gave it to my son, who was only 2 years old when I bought it and had the work done to it. After all these years, the finish is still in the same shape. Barely a ding here and there after nearly 35 years.

True Oil is super tough, easy to work with, and gets stellar results if you don’t rush it and do it right.

Look at my refurbish post that I just posted in the general topics for further reference.
 
Over the years, I have used it on a few necks and am not against it. After a while, I started applying a few layers of pure orange oil to smooth out the feel. Fun fact: the termites and other bugs hate Orange Oil (the real stuff).
This is not mean-spirited; I am genuinely curious. I have a big bottle of the stuff, and after watching some YouTubers, I expected the Heavens to open peace on earth and goodwill toward men. What did I not do (LoL)? I have yet to try it on a guitar body, but I need a piece of wood I want to look at. It would save a lot of money if I finished the Body and neck of my next order.
I wonder if I could add color pigment, dye, or ink to change the tone or color.
 
#wonder if I could add color pigment, dye, or ink to change the tone or color.#

I have considered to try staining maple neck, I realize maple doesn't soak much, but my thoughts are roasted maple may absorb more, NOTE , my mind thought it but my hands never did it, I don't know if it is a good idea or folly
 
Breathe? No. Once you master it's application it's insanely easy, and looks good. I've heard it doesn't meet warranty, but I've had good luck with it. An alternative is a wipe on poly. Like a lot of oil based finishes tru oil imparts a nice slightly amber hue over time. Gives it a richness rather than a sterile clear.
 
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It needs to be new shellac.
Preferably de-waxed shellac if you’re going to use another finish over it. I have had success with poly over waxed (Zinser Bullseye) shellac, but IMHO it’s better to not risk it. That’s the lovely thing about shellac, it sticks to everything!
 
Preferably de-waxed shellac if you’re going to use another finish over it. I have had success with poly over waxed (Zinser Bullseye) shellac, but IMHO it’s better to not risk it. That’s the lovely thing about shellac, it sticks to everything!
Yes, de-waxed.
 
I've used TruOil on 3 Warmoth partscaster builds from unfinished bodies and neck.

I like seeing the wood grain, so some kind of clear finish is a must for me.

I haven't used other finishing methods, so can't speak to those. I like TruOil for the following reasons....
  • Easy to apply
  • Reasonable drying time
  • Gives a rich appearance for the wood it's covering
  • Can go from a satin to glossy appearance pretty easily
  • When the guitar gets dinged, fixing the TruOil finish is pretty easy

What I don't like about it...
  • Colors the wood with an amber tint
 
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