Why poo poo the poly?

Another thing thats a big turn off for poly for me is that I spray like one or two guitar a year... poly is a little harder to set the equipment for as well as application since you need to mix them, load the gun, and they have some specific windows as well. It's a pain if you're doing one guitar because you'd do one coat then take forever to clean the gun out, and you need to clean it well because once poly dries its non-removable. This makes more sense in a production environment where they can mix a big batch for the day then keep using the gun throughout the day and take half an hour at the end of the shift to clean it. Lacquer is much more forgiving when it comes to cleaning. I know lacquer does need better surface prep though since the lacquer will shrink forever. Maybe I can use poly as a sealer coat (brushed on) then sand it flat to give me a base that won't shrink over time (more useful on open grained wood)
 
rahimiiii said:
Another thing thats a big turn off for poly for me is that I spray like one or two guitar a year... poly is a little harder to set the equipment for as well as application since you need to mix them, load the gun, and they have some specific windows as well. It's a pain if you're doing one guitar because you'd do one coat then take forever to clean the gun out, and you need to clean it well because once poly dries its non-removable. This makes more sense in a production environment where they can mix a big batch for the day then keep using the gun throughout the day and take half an hour at the end of the shift to clean it. Lacquer is much more forgiving when it comes to cleaning. I know lacquer does need better surface prep though since the lacquer will shrink forever. Maybe I can use poly as a sealer coat (brushed on) then sand it flat to give me a base that won't shrink over time (more useful on open grained wood)

Everyone always talks about the equipment required for poly, but I found everything I need in a spray can.  Dupont Chromabase paint, Aeromax Clear...I'm pretty sure there were other poly options available in a spray can, too.  I should be receiving my body soon now and I'll let everyone know how it goes (already have the paint and everything).
 
I buy some bodies with a Warmoth factory finish, usually if I fall in love with a piece of wood that's already finished, or when they decide to "fire sale" something tasty, but prefer to use nitro lacquer on anything I finish myself; gives it a much more "vintage" look, and when the inevitable dings occur they are much more easily touched up as CB noted
 
It seems that people have stopped arguing about the tone of poly vs. nitro so much.  I think the argument originally came up because people who wanted to be taken seriously as guitarists with good tone were afraid to admit that nitro may feel good or just plain look cool when it's worn out.  Let's face it, there are people who will spend a freakin' lot of money on a worn out-looking guitar finished in nitro.

In the meantime, even companies like Fender want guitars that will stand the test of time and still look brand new down the road.  If you want your guitar to look brand new 20 years down the road...better use poly.  If you want it to show wear and tear from years of use and age, go with nitro.  Personally, I'm in the latter came.  Forget repairing the finish:  the more wear, the better!
 
Here are my top 10 reasons to choose nitrocellulose over poly when finishing a guitar.

1. I have stripped several poly-finished guitars and re-did them with lacquer and they all sounded better after the refinish.  (I don’t wish the stripping of poly on any one.)
2. It’s really hard to mess up lacquer.
3. I get paid a lot of money to lacquer guitars in vintage style finishes. I have not had anyone request a poly finish.
4. Name players in the know look for good lacquer finishers.
5. It’s the only way to replicate Pre-CBS Fender finishes.
6. It yellows to a beautiful patina over time.
7. The guitar shows the wear and tear of the player using it.  No need to relic it, just cut a real player loose and the guitar will wear to the way he plays it.
8. They feel so good after they are really played and worn in.
9. I love vintage guitars!!!!  You have to play one.
10. I get do pieces like this 1954 Telecaster.  Here it is with the white wash coat.  I have learned so much about guitars as I replicate the finishes of early 50’s or 60’s Fenders. And it is always a treat to handle the stuff that was made by Tadeo, Gloria, and Eddie.   There is a real special thing going on when you get to be a part of their history.

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Tonar, how much do you ask for finish a guitar? If I lived near you I would send all my guitars to you finish, I like the way you do it!
 
Tonar - I know when you're done that Tele will look like it just came off the Fender factory line in '54, but doesn't the refin lessen the value over leaving whatrever's left of the factory finish?
 
Jack,
You are correct! I would never refinish a guitar that has even a little of the original factory finish on it.  This guitar was refinished very poorly as a sunburst before it was purchase for a crazy low price. The guy who bought it sent it to someone else to finish and when he got it back he was very disappointed with the result.  It looked like a fake so he brought it to me.  It is a great piece; every thing is original with a neck signed by Tadeo that has an amazing feel.  


I charge anywhere from $300 to $500 depending on what needs to be done and I am not interested in taking any more work.  I’m already buried.  
 
One more for nitro.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=valB38pbXYI[/youtube]
 
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