Who here has a rear routed Tele with a 4-way blade switch?

I even have this with a 3 position switch mounted to a plate. Loosening the switch screws a bit and moving it about improved it a lot but I think I'll have to take a file to the slot to really fix it sooner or later.
 
PumpinIron said:
BroccoliRob said:
You might just need to find a different manufacturer. MAybe a different company's 4-way switch would have a different design and not give you this problem

Yep, you're right. I spoke to Warmoth today on the phone. He told me that they have never had this issue with their 3-way blade switch, but he's never heard from anyone who has run a 4-way.

That leaves me with the conclusion that it is definitely switch related. I'm not even sure if any 4-way switch will work. I may just have to go with a 3-way switch, which honestly wouldn't be the end of the world.

I actually just built a soloist with a three way blade switch in it, and the actual switch arm was hitting the ends of the slots in the body.  Not enough to prevent it from going into position, but flipping it back and forth in a live setting, I noticed it was actually chipping the clear coat on both ends of the switch slot.  I ended up doing some very fine beveling at each end of the slot with a diamond file to solve the problem.  Wish I would have caught it before I took it out for a test drive, but you honestly couldn't tell without magnification.
 
If the big Tele knob is preventing the switch from working, maybe a different and smaller tip would be a solution
 
Hendrix said:
I draw a section to show what I do .

index.php

What kind of switch cap are you running though? I'm using a factory style switch cap, and it's bigger than the one in your drawing.
 
PumpinIron said:
What kind of switch cap are you running though? I'm using a factory style switch cap, and it's bigger than the one in your drawing.

I just use Strat® Switch Knob on a 5 way ,  I have't try any tele style , I think tele factory style switch cap are longer , should their have a longer blade on switch ?
 
Would tapering the underside of the switch knob help in anyway?  :dontknow:

To me it seems the shape of the older styled Tele knob is the issue. A Strat knob would work but if you REALLY want that Tel knob, altering the slot or tapering the knob seems a logical way to go, if you have already shaved the under side of the cavity.
 
I think a good course of action, if the Tele barrel knob is retained, would be to get a pair of Strat style mounting screws to replace the Tele ones.

The round head tele type screws will sit higher. The pan head type for a Strat is closer to a pickguard due to its countersunk nature.  So if the holes at the top of the body were countersunk slightly and reinforced with some CA (Super) Glue and when dry use strat type mounting screws you could have a workable and easy solution.
 
stratamania said:
I think a good course of action, if the Tele barrel knob is retained, would be to get a pair of Strat style mounting screws to replace the Tele ones.

The round head tele type screws will sit higher. The pan head type for a Strat is closer to a pickguard due to its countersunk nature.  So if the holes at the top of the body were countersunk slightly and reinforced with some CA (Super) Glue and when dry use strat type mounting screws you could have a workable and easy solution.

I have done that on a Strat for " designers look " artistic results.

before ( also try to match up pickups cover colour here )

Screw2.jpg


after , all screw blend in .

Screw1.jpg



Behind
Screw3.jpg


I use Gorilla Glue in screw hole , as it not going to crack and easy to screw in , as it not going to really harden.

23629-1002-2-2ww-m.jpg
 
That's not quite what I mean. Firstly you have that in a scratchplate, not a rear rout.

No glue needed on the screws.  What I said was to countersink slightly the top of the rear rout body for the pan head to sit in. After countersinking the superglue would be used to seal/strenghen the wood of the countersink and hole through the body.

The screw then just is fitted through the body and threads into the switch as normal.
 
the strat pickguards 5 way switch hole don't have countersink , I need to add countersink to use the same wood screw for the pickguards .
it smaller and more blend in to other screws.so it can be use the rear rout body.

the switch's screw are bigger round head . change to countersink one need bigger and deeper countersink too.
 
Hendrix said:
the strat pickguards 5 way switch hole don't have countersink , I need to add countersink to use the same wood screw for the pickguards .
it smaller and more blend in to other screws.so it can be use the rear rout body.

the switch's screw are bigger round head . change to countersink one need bigger and deeper countersink too.

You can order a pickguard from Warmoth with the SRV countersink and that is already done for you. None of my Strats over the last forty years have had round head screws for the switch selectors. Teles yes, but Strats no.
 
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