which sealer before tru oil?

[eiopago]

hello,

I`ll be finishing my black korina guitar as soon as it gets shipped by warmoth.
What I want to do is a washcoat of some sealer not to let the black grain filler affect the colour of the wood too much (I only want to fill the pores with it) then tru oil.
the question that I have is: is it ok to use shellac for this ? I read somewhere on this forum that shellac is not recommended before the tru oil, so what other sealer can I use to be safe?

thanks  marco

 

[Soylent]

Hey Marco!

Marko and I use Naphtha!

 

[m4rk0]

the naphta is really for cleaning and removing fingerprints etc.

I never use a sealer with Tru-oil - I wonder if I should going forward.
I have used different types of grain filler in combination with Tru Oil though

 

[Soylent]

Fine whatever, all I know is the back of my strat, the korina, is too nice heh (no grain filler)

 

[Rick]

Doesn't tru-oil make a sealer?

 

[m4rk0]

when I did my first tru oil finish, I followed these - http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/TruOil.htm - instructions
the way I read it, is that you can skip the sealing part if you don't use a filler.

 

[eiopago]

well,

if i don`t use a sealer the black grain filler will colour the korina, and not just the pores.
so the sealer for me is a must for the kind of effect i have in mind...

why would the shellac not be good by the way?

 

[TroubledTreble]

Definately use the Birchwood Casey sealer. It is compatible with the Tru-Oil. It is also inexpensive and comes in the right amounts that you need so there won't be any waste. I would get two bottles and use them both up.

 

[llama]

My first Warmoth build was a Black Korina strat. I used the Birchwood Casey Sealer first and then Tru-Oil. It worked a treat. I should never have sold it - still the money was used to build two Warmoth Teles!

 

[Keyser Soze]

Why not just use a wash coat of tru-oil?  Dilute it 50/50 with mineral spirits then apply.

 

[eiopago]

I actuallt thought of using a wash coat of tru oil as a sealer, then grain fill with black and tru oil again...

thanks

 

[markwlewis]

You can use the Tru Oil sealer from BC. Yes, you can use shellac, according to dozens of pro-semi-pro builders who use Tru Oil primarily. You could thin down the oil itself, tho' if you are worried about BLEED with normal thickness TO, I fail to see how thinning it would help prevent bleeding. Probably cause more? Tru Oil is cool, easy and looks good. Pitfalls: Don't slather it on, thin coats only with reasonable dry time in between . I live in SoCal so your dry time and mine are different. I wait an hour or two, but more is ok. 0000 steel wool or GREY scotchbrite (better) will take off the nubs and give the oil a tooth for the next coat. Final polish is rottenstone or micromesh (prefer) 6000 and up to final finish. Incidentally, make darn sure your sanding is completely finished before beginning the finishing process. Go to 320 or 400 minimum before starting Tru Oil, check and recheck. You can easily sand-thru the finish trying to remove a missed spot left over from previous sanding. Not a disaster unless you have a stain and sealer, etc. Then it could be visible. Short answer is GO FOR IT. It is probably the easiest HQ finish for instruments and quite forgiving in application. No slathering and no pools around edges and you'll be fine, I swear. :hello2: :headbang:

 

[Mor Paul]

Another M Lewis?

Not sure how this'll work  :laughing7:

 

[Steve_Karl]

when I did my first tru oil finish, I followed these - http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/TruOil.htm - instructions
the way I read it, is that you can skip the sealing part if you don't use a filler.

Awesome!  Thanks for the link.