What the heck is a #38 drill bit?

[Perry Combover]

I have looked everywhere and can't find an answer.  Surely someone here can tell me what a #38 (.101) drill bit is.  All the hardware stores I go to have their bits labeled as fractions and metric.  It sounds conspiratorial.  :help:

 

[AutoBat]

a 38 bit is 0.1015 inches, or 13/128ths, it's halfway between 7/64ths & 3/32nds (42 & 35 are the closest bits to those fractions)
also metric would be 0.25781cm

 

[Cagey]

I have looked everywhere and can't find an answer.  Surely someone here can tell me what a #38 (.101) drill bit is.  All the hardware stores I go to have their bits labeled as fractions and metric.  It sounds conspiratorial.  :help:

When a bit is called out as a letter/number, it's a wire gauge size rather than an imperial or metric diameter dimension. They're typically finer gradations than you'll find in the traditional measuring scales, and usually only used by machinists who require very specific sizes. That's why you don't see them in hardware stores - those places are frequented by regular folks, who wear sneakers or the occasional python boot. Being a millionth of an inch off doesn't bother us mere mortals.

There are conversion charts out there - Google is your friend. For example, see here.

 

[Perry Combover]

Good info. Thanks gents.

So the question is this: Can I use 7/64ths or 3/32nds and get away with it?  Schaller tuners:

It calls for a #38 drill bit. Obviously I'd like to go tighter rather than the opposite and have potential slop in there, but I don't want to have to hammer it in either.  Any experience installing these?

 

[Cagey]

The hardwoods necks are made of don't compress very well - almost not at all, for all intents and purposes - so as much as you want your tuners as tight as possible, you don't want to be too tight. You might even split the peghead if you force the issue. But with both of those sizes you're only off by thousandths. If I had to choose between the two, I'd use the 7/64" bit. It's not exactly right, being .008" larger, but the 3/32" is .008" smaller. Schaller is a premium manufacturer, so they keep to their dimensions better than, say, a Kluson or Grover part. Better to be safe than sorry, which is also to say that for the $4 of $5 you might pay for a bit, it's not a bad idea to use the right size. You'll beat yourself silly if you screw up a $300-$400 neck over $5 and/or laziness.

 

[bagman67]

The point of those pins is to prevent rotation of the gear casing, not to actually fasten the tuner to the headstock.  Use the larger bit if you're worried about splitting the wood by pounding the pins into their holes.

 

[Perry Combover]

Clearly the #38 bit is the way to go.  I just need to find one locally or hit the interweb.  Oh, and Cagey, it's a $650 neck.  I'll spend the $5.  :icon_thumright:

 

[Cagey]

I'm sure somebody around there has them. I wouldn't waste too much time trying to run one down at Lowe's or Home Depot, as those are consumer suppliers. But, a good tool supply house will certainly have them.

 

[bagman67]

http://drillsandcutters.com/dap38jobberlengthpolished.aspx

 

[Perry Combover]

Perfect Bagman.  I have one on the way.

 

[Cagey]

55 cents!! Damn! That's couch cushion change, with money left over for some Reese's Cups...

Don't even think about it - just buy me!​

!

 

[Patrick from Davis]

You have to buy $1.00 worth for them to take the order.  There is another one here and the shipping is rather cheap.  Any way you cut it, sorry, it is about $5.00
Patrick

 

[stubhead]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes#US_number_and_letter_gauge_drill_bit_sizes

I have actually printed out the conversion charts and sizes, drill bits, screw dimensions, metric lengths - inches, all that kind of stuff; and loaded the pages into a three-ring binder. Rather than having to trick it out of the internet every time, it's always in the same place.

 

[Perry Combover]

Ok, if you are a penny pincher: Snap-on has them for $3.15, tax included, no shipping.  I usually avoid Snap-on because they are frequently overpriced, but they are a winner this time.

 

[DaveG_NJ]

I started looking for one of these #38 bits for a new neck that I'm waiting on. Found 'em on Stewmac, but then recalled that I swapped out two brand new Fender necks this year (with pre-drilled holes) and one had very tight alignment pin holes and the other very loose, so I thought to measure. What I'm getting at is that I don't think you really need this elusive #38. Mind you, these are recent vintage OEM Fender (MIM) necks, one 2018 and the other 2019 and the tuners are the Fender locking tuners with the two alignment pins at the top. Bear in mind that the #38 is .101".

#1 (Fender Player Strat, gloss maple, 2018):
Tuner Pin width: 0.088" (2.24mm) Fender drilled width: 0.097" (2.45mm) <- Tuner pins fit loosely (could wiggle)
Tuner Pin depth: 0.128" (3.25mm) Fender drilled depth: .315" (8.00mm)

#2 (Fender Tele Replacement neck, roasted maple, 2019):
Tuner Pin width: 0.088" (2.24mm) Fender drilled width: 0.092" (2.35mm) <- Tuner pins fit snug (no wiggle and required pressure to seat or remove)
Tuner Pin depth: 0.129" (3.28mm) Fender drilled depth: .318" (8.06mm)

I would drill test holes in scrap wood to be sure, but I think a friendly on 3/32" bit would be fine. It's also interesting that Fender drills their holes WAY too deep for their own tuners.