Warmoth P Bass Std Profile dimension variance?

[GringoSalsero]

So far, I have purchased 3 Warmoth bass necks (all std p bass profiles) and 2 Warmoth guitar necks. I really liked my second bass neck (maple and rosewood, nickel frets, 6150, steel rods) dimensions and wanted to try 6150 SS frets on an all-maple neck with graphite rods next, which became my third Warmoth bass neck. As it was my third Warmoth p bass neck with the "same" profile, I never thought of measuring. After dressing fret ends, fretboard edges and finishing with Tru-Oil, I mounted it on my other Fender body. It always seemed fatter, but I just assumed that it could be an optical allusion (difference between different color fretboard vs. same color fretboard.)

Well, I just took out my dial calipers and measured. Second bass neck: first fret=0.872" and 12th fret=0.968". Third bass neck: first fret=0.919" and 12th fret=1.010"! Dimensions from website: first fret=0.872" and 12th fret=0.975"! I remeasured from top and bottom and got roughly same measurements, within a couple of thousandths.

So, I'm not crazy...

Comments?

 

[stratamania]

Probably it has had just a little less sanding.

If you want it to feel closer to the others, a simple solution would be some sandpaper to get it to where you want it and then redo the tru-oil.

 

[GringoSalsero]

Probably it has had just a little less sanding.

If you want it to feel closer to the others, a simple solution would be some sandpaper to get it to where you want it and then redo the tru-oil.

I'm an assembler of parts. I can do setups. I can rewire no problem. Reshaping the profile of the neck seems a little more complicated than just sand it some more. Where do I start?

 

[Spud]

I'm an assembler of parts. I can do setups. I can rewire no problem. Reshaping the profile of the neck seems a little more complicated than just sand it some more. Where do I start?

By creating plan and diving in. Could turn out perfectly................................or...................since you can only subtract wood, you may be very unhappy as there is no going back.

 

[GringoSalsero]

By creating plan and diving in. Could turn out perfectly................................or...................since you can only subtract wood, you may be very unhappy as there is no going back.

I have my 2nd bass neck as a sample. I need some way of measuring zones on the source neck and to be able to measure those same zones on the result neck. Any YouTube videos on this may help. Plus, I will probably need new tools to accomplish this.

 

[Tretgeraet]

Plus, I will probably need new tools to accomplish this

Sandpaper, time and patience.

If this sounds like I'm making fun of you, I'm not. You wanna progress slowly so you don't take away too much.

You could use a contour gauge or cut pieces of cardboard to measure and check your progress, but frankly: Your hands are way more precise and sensitive than any tool or measurement could ever be. And how that neck feels in YOUR hand matters more than anything else.

So my advice: Take some sandpaper and sand away anything that bothers you until it feels right!

This is the way!

 

[rockandroller]

Second the contour gauge idea!
a basic ten dollar one will allow you to check your sanding as you go... https://www.amazon.com/s?k=contour+gauge
I agree you want to 'go by feel', but the gauge check will make sure you can't accidentally undershoot what you know you already like

 

[Spud]

I have my 2nd bass neck as a sample. I need some way of measuring zones on the source neck and to be able to measure those same zones on the result neck. Any YouTube videos on this may help. Plus, I will probably need new tools to accomplish this.

Digital calipers to measure thickness could be helpful. (They were for me)

 

[stratamania]

I'm an assembler of parts. I can do setups. I can rewire no problem. Reshaping the profile of the neck seems a little more complicated than just sand it some more. Where do I start?

The profile does not need to be reshaped only smoothed down a bit.

You just need some sandpaper, patience and maybe a block. You probably won't need anything coarser than 220 grit.

 

[Hodgo]

By creating plan and diving in. Could turn out perfectly................................or...................since you can only subtract wood, you may be very unhappy as there is no going back.

But you can add bondo

 

[GringoSalsero]

The profile does not need to be reshaped only smoothed down a bit.

You just need some sandpaper, patience and maybe a block. You probably won't need anything coarser than 220 grit.

As I've seen on YouTube, when sanding fretboards, generally a radius block is used to prevent flat spots. How would one handle this while sanding the back of a neck?

BTW, I changed my profile picture to include my two P basses. The neck that I have been referring to (that is fat) is the maple one on the right. The one on the left is the other Warmoth neck that is perfect.

 

[Tretgeraet]

As I've seen on YouTube, when sanding fretboards, generally a radius block is used to prevent flat spots. How would one handle this while sanding the back of a neck?

BTW, I changed my profile picture to include my two P basses. The neck that I have been referring to (that is fat) is the maple one on the right. The one on the left is the other Warmoth neck that is perfect.

Well, Warmoth offers compound radius fretboards, how do you think those are sanded?

Also, in my experience it's generally harder to NOT sand a (slight) radius to a flat surface, than the other way around.

I would say, a more logical reason to use a radius block when sanding a fretboard is, if you want a certain radius all over the fretboard.

But you don't want that on the back of the neck. A good reason to use a (straight) block for sanding the back of the neck could be to have a better grip and better control over the sandpaper, also possibly apply a little more pressure, when needed.

The only way to get "flat spots" is if you stay on one spot too long while sanding.

A wise teacher once told me, that in woodworking, you have to "see with your fingers"! If you do, you will "see" if the neck is right.

 

[stratamania]

As I've seen on YouTube, when sanding fretboards, generally a radius block is used to prevent flat spots. How would one handle this while sanding the back of a neck?

You would not use a radius block on the back of the neck as you would not be trying to create a radius.

You could use a flat sanding block to keep your sanding equal and level along the length of the neck. You would use it tangentially. See also post of @Tretgeraet above.

If you have never sanded anything before perhaps get some scraps of wood to get a feel of what to do prior to doing something on a neck.