Warmoth Jagstang - Bridge Question

Distang21

Newbie
Messages
3
Hello everyone,

I am interested in assembling a Warmoth Jagstang using a 7/8 Warhead neck to convert it to a 24.75" scale guitar. I have contacted Warmoth and they have said it will fit and intonate. The Warmoth Jagstang body allows a Mustang Tremolo with either a Mustang Bridge or Tune-O-Matic Bridge.

My question is which bridge will allow for better tuning stability and adjustments?

Thanks!
 
 
Yeah, I should've included those!

I was thinking about Maple Shaft wood and Indian Rosewood Fretboard. For the nut width, 1-5/8" is what I'd like, but if 1-11/16" works better, I can choose that. Neck Profile would be Standard Thin and Fretboard Radius 10-16" compound. Fret Size would be 6105 and with the 7/8 Warhead neck 24 frets is the only option.
 
As long as the scale length of the neck will work, the world is wide open to you. And with the amount of customization Warmoth will allow, you have a lotta choice for bridge/tailpiece that you might like better than Leo's idea of what was acceptable for Mustangs, Jaguars and Jazzmasters.
 
If you are going with the compound radius,  a mustang bridge probably isn't going to get the job done. Most are pre radiused to 7.25" although they can be found in 9.5". I've never used their modified mustang bridge, but i would assume it has it's limitations. Tuneomatics are typically notched for a 12" radius, so your best bet is probably using a tuneomatic without pre notched saddles, ultimately cutting your own.

From what I understand, the compound radius is a cone and just because the fretboard ends at 16" doesn't mean that you'll set your bridge to that. As I understand it, you'll want to to make it even flatter at the bridge, in this case 18".
 
AcrylicSuperman said:
If you are going with the compound radius,  a mustang bridge probably isn't going to get the job done. Most are pre radiused to 7.25" although they can be found in 9.5". I've never used their modified mustang bridge, but i would assume it has it's limitations. Tuneomatics are typically notched for a 12" radius, so your best bet is probably using a tuneomatic without pre notched saddles, ultimately cutting your own.

From what I understand, the compound radius is a cone and just because the fretboard ends at 16" doesn't mean that you'll set your bridge to that. As I understand it, you'll want to to make it even flatter at the bridge, in this case 18".

I second that. The radius at the bridge would definitely be larger than at the end of the fretboard and I believe it would be around 18"
 
Right. Somebody did the math one time, and I believe it ended up being around 18.25" Actually, it matters little if you have an adjustable saddle height capable bridge. Fortunately, this has been addressed. Graphtech sells replacement saddles...

41sErISNGwL._AC_.jpg


 
Thank you all so much for your help and responses! I am new to this kind of thing and learning as I am going, so this is all very helpful.

After reading your replies, I may switch to a Straight Radius neck, most likely 9.5" if I decide to use the Mustang Bridge or 12" if I decide to use the TOM. I would not trust my self cutting my own notches for the saddles.

You have all given me a lot to think about and thank you again!
 
Back
Top