Warmoth builds that didn’t work out? Looking for mistakes made in hindsight

[bonesofwrath]

Speaking of things you can't stand the look of but you wonder if its not a good idea... I'd love to try out a V for a few weeks some day. Can't decide if its the most unergonomic design ever or sheer genius.

 

[NedRyerson]

Heh. I have a Warmoth V-K, the first WM guitar I ever built. I love it, but I'm also a fan of pointy-metal-ridiculous designs It's a 3x3 custom headstock. If it's in my lap, I play it classical style with the body resting on my left leg and the V portion cradled on my right. It's meant for aesthetics, not for practicality. Any fan of a V-style or anything made by BC Rich understands that.

I also made another down-tuned guitar with reverse in-line headstock. 6 string, B to B. It took some acclimation on my part, but it's fine now. I'm used to it. Placement and alignment are all preference, not gospel.

As for a mistake I made, I ran bolts into the neck without properly preparing the bolt holes once. Ended up getting one of the screws jammed into the wood so badly that I couldn't get it out again. I applied so much torque on it that I was not only stripping it, but snapped the head right off. I Dremeled the remaining shank off and then had to use a bore to cut the rest of it out. Then plug it and start over.

Lessons learned: check the shank width before assuming its fit to the screw holes. Do a test fit by hand. If it doesn't turn easily by hand, it's going to be a bad day with a power driver.

I've also done the "screwdriver slips off the screw and dents the body" thing. Dropping tools onto the workpiece because I was reaching over the guitar to get a tool. Not using the correct soldering tip for applying wire to the pot case.

And the biggest mistake ever: over-confidence.

 

[GoDrex]

Hey all, I’m doing my first Warmoth build (first custom build ever) soon and I’m super excited to get started once all the parts come in.

It’s going to be a telecaster style body with TV Jones pickups. Here’s my initial thread on it. https://unofficialwarmoth.com/threads/first-build-ordered-tele-style-with-tv-jones-pups.35291/

I’ve loved going back into the older threads and reading about everyone’s builds, and it seems like almost everyone has been happy with their builds, both the newer builders and the experienced builders. As this is my first time building one, I’m very nervous to accidentally make a mistake when drilling/putting it together, so I’m curious if anyone had a build that went wrong and what mistakes they realized in hindsight they could’ve avoided. I’ve already gotten some great advice (thanks again @stratamania ) about the tuner hole bores that I originally planned out, so I got those changed before my order processed.

I appreciate any advice anyone has or any shared experiences for something that went wrong that you realized afterwards!

Oh I've had lots of issues. To the point where I started to believe I was cursed. The problems with guitars started before I got involved with Warmoth. Some things were definitely my ignorance, but some were, imo, mistakes made by Warmoth that I wasn't experienced enough to catch.

For example you can read all about my troubles with my first ever Warmoth I attempted myself. Right out of the box the neck had a bead of finish on the end of the fretboard over hang that I didn't know to look for (and I don't know why I should have had to, but I learned my lesson). This caused the end of the fret board to become a ramp when the neck was attached. My fault? Warmoth's fault? You decide. I didn't expect that I would have to sand the end of the neck because finish drip. Look for my very long Gold Top thread. I also had a very bizarre experience with an employee from Martin Guitars (I live very close to Nazareth PA) regarding getting a nut cut for this guitar. It's beyond insane.

Another fun issue I had was a I ordered an Iceman body with three holes for volumes and tone. I also wanted to use one of those Tele style output jacks. My lack of experience (or no one telling me, "no don't request that") lead to me having to drill a new hole for the output jack because there wasn't nearly enough room because of the tone pot. My fault? Probably. I don't know. You can find the details of this and my fix here as well

In my latest build I had all sorts of issues fitting a pickguard to the strat I ordered. Never once had and issue with actual Fender bodies. Ended up needing to use a mini pot for the bottom tone. My fault? I guess so.

Thing is none of this was too serious and no permanent damage was done. None of my guitars are perfect but they're all good for me and I've learned a lot in the process. I will still get more custom parts from Warmoth, even though the most successful parts guitar I ever put together was made from Fender parts.

 

[bagman67]

For drilling pilot holes, an eggbeater hand drill is way less scary and way less likely to get out of control than a power drill.

Also, when drilling pilot holes for your pickguard, it's helpful to first tape it into its expected final position on the body, and then mark the hole locations with a center punch. Unlike a pen or pencil, the center punch will create an indent that will keep the tip of your bit where you want it, instead of letting it wander across the surface. Once your holes are marked, remove the pickguard, then drill. Removing the pickguard will keep you from accidentally poking or gouging it with your drill bit.

Egg Beater Hand Drill with Keyless Chuck with 1/4" Capacity

This egg beater hand drill allows more control when drilling and is perfect for small and precise work. The body is tough cast zinc with a two-part plastic handle. Comes with smooth running cast double pinon gears. Handle has screw lid with internal storage. Keyless chuck will handle bits up to...

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Automatic Center Punch--466149

AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH: Taytools Automatic Center punch is perfect for layout work and accurately marks starts for screws, nails and drilling preventing wandering. It allows one-handed operation with no hammer required. The punch stores energy in a spring and when pressed down releases this...

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[bagman67]

oh, this one is my favorite:

If you make an error of sufficient substance to piss you off, put your tools down and walk away for a while. Trying to fix a screw-up while angry can lead to compounded errors that could be avoided with a little distance from the situation.

 

[DuckBaloo]

My disaster stories are all finishing related and nothing I couldn't fix by sanding it back and doing it again. But you are using a finished body (smart!).

Some tips.

1. Tape off all drill bits at the depth you want them to be. This will help keep you from drilling too far. Do not use a stop collar, it can damage the finish
2. Tape the wood that you are drilling though, drill through that tape, this will help prevent tear outs in the wood and finish. Low tack blue painter tape or masking tape that you stuck to your jeans and pulled off once or twice to reduced the stickiness
3. With holes for pickguards, control plates, etc. you can tape those down and I use a "hinge bit" which has a collar to center the drill bit in the countersunk hole
4. Hinge bits won't fit most tuner holes, use a center punch for those
5. High speed drilling for hard woods
6. Every single screw that goes into the wood should be waxed. They sell little tins of screw wax at hardware stores, but you can use candle wax. Without the wax, a screw is very likely to split hardwood, especially roasted wood, which is more brittle
7. In the pilot hole size chart...use the larger "hard wood" pilot hole sizes (most Fender-style screws for pickguard, panels, etc. are #4 and use a 5/64" pilot hole)

Finally, once you get it all together and set up as good as you can...get it professional setup, maybe even consider a professional fret level.

 

[bonesofwrath]

oh, this one is my favorite:

If you make an error of sufficient substance to piss you off, put your tools down and walk away for a while. Trying to fix a screw-up while angry can lead to compounded errors that could be avoided with a little distance from the situation.

I'm staring at one of those now on another project. Tried to build this rail and panel cabinet for my 3d printer using a rabbet bit on the assembled cabinet instead of dados.Didn't have enough of a surface for my guide bit to ride and seriously boogered it up. Its mechanically sound just ugly. I think I can save it just slapping paneling on the sides and nobody but me is looking inside to see the gaps if I do. But I'm still ticked about it.

 

[bagman67]

My disaster stories are all finishing related and nothing I couldn't fix by sanding it back and doing it again. But you are using a finished body (smart!).

Some tips.

1. Tape off all drill bits at the depth you want them to be. This will help keep you from drilling too far. Do not use a stop collar, it can damage the finish
2. Tape the wood that you are drilling though, drill through that tape, this will help prevent tear outs in the wood and finish
3. With holes for pickguards, control plates, etc. you can tape those down and I use a "hinge bit" which has a collar to center the drill bit in the countersunk hole
4. Hinge bits won't fit most tuner holes, use a center punch for those
5. High speed drilling for hard woods
6. Every single screw that goes into the wood should be waxed. They sell little tins of screw wax at hardware stores, but you can use candle wax. Without the wax, a screw is very likely to split hardwood, especially roasted wood, which is more brittle
7. In the pilot hole size chart...use the larger "hard wood" pilot hole sizes (most Fender-style screws for pickguard, panels, etc. are #4 and use a 5/64" pilot hole)

Finally, once you get it all together and set up as good as you can...get it professional setup, maybe even consider a professional fret level.

All solid tips. For those of us assembling axes from finished bodies and necks, the pilot holes for screws are by far the largest source of anguish.

 

[bagman67]

I'm staring at one of those now on another project. Tried to build this rail and panel cabinet for my 3d printer using a rabbet bit on the assembled cabinet instead of dados.Didn't have enough of a surface for my guide bit to ride and seriously boogered it up. Its mechanically sound just ugly. I think I can save it just slapping paneling on the sides and nobody but me is looking inside to see the gaps if I do. But I'm still ticked about it.

I feel you, buddy. Being a perfectionist can be the enemy of finishing stuff sometimes. And being a perfectionist and an amateur, well... you can get REALLY stuck.

 

[teleme01]

I chipped a little piece off the body when attaching the neck, didn't affect the playing any, 99.5% of people would never notice but you may not want to do that.

 

[aarontunes]

oh, this one is my favorite:

If you make an error of sufficient substance to piss you off, put your tools down and walk away for a while. Trying to fix a screw-up while angry can lead to compounded errors that could be avoided with a little distance from the situation.

Maybe the best life advice you will read today.

 

[aarontunes]

My disaster stories are all finishing related and nothing I couldn't fix by sanding it back and doing it again. But you are using a finished body (smart!).

Some tips.

1. Tape off all drill bits at the depth you want them to be. This will help keep you from drilling too far. Do not use a stop collar, it can damage the finish
2. Tape the wood that you are drilling though, drill through that tape, this will help prevent tear outs in the wood and finish. Low tack blue painter tape or masking tape that you stuck to your jeans and pulled off once or twice to reduced the stickiness
3. With holes for pickguards, control plates, etc. you can tape those down and I use a "hinge bit" which has a collar to center the drill bit in the countersunk hole
4. Hinge bits won't fit most tuner holes, use a center punch for those
5. High speed drilling for hard woods
6. Every single screw that goes into the wood should be waxed. They sell little tins of screw wax at hardware stores, but you can use candle wax. Without the wax, a screw is very likely to split hardwood, especially roasted wood, which is more brittle
7. In the pilot hole size chart...use the larger "hard wood" pilot hole sizes (most Fender-style screws for pickguard, panels, etc. are #4 and use a 5/64" pilot hole)

Finally, once you get it all together and set up as good as you can...get it professional setup, maybe even consider a professional fret level.

Supporting documentation:

 

[DuckBaloo]

Supporting documentation:

Excellent info, especially on the neck screws.

I would add to avoid over-torquing those neck screws. Tighter is not necessarily better.

 

[Rick]

Thanks to The Aaron I use the wax ring for toilets, as my screw lubricant. With one ring I got a lifetime supply.

As I read that it seems a bit off, but whatever.

 

[aarontunes]

Thanks to The Aaron I use the wax ring for toilets, as my screw lubricant. With one ring I got a lifetime supply.

As I read that it seems a bit off, but whatever.

Don't you apologize!!! Don't you hide that light under a bushel!!!

 

[electric__steve]

oh, this one is my favorite:

If you make an error of sufficient substance to piss you off, put your tools down and walk away for a while. Trying to fix a screw-up while angry can lead to compounded errors that could be avoided with a little distance from the situation.

Good advice. But here's the problem: I've got a Warmoth Jazzmaster body on the bench. I sanded through the clearcoat into the dyed wood.

Oh, I definitely walked away. No compounding errors for me.

The problem is that this happened 4 months ago, and I have ZERO interest in sanding back and starting over. Again. Because I already started over two previous times.

I'm debating throwing the stupid thing on eBay for a $1 starting price, and just walking away.

Thanks to The Aaron I use the wax ring for toilets, as my screw lubricant. With one ring I got a lifetime supply.

As I read that it seems a bit off, but whatever.

Why oh why? That stuff is a sticky disgusting mess. How about some wax from an old candle?

 

[bagman67]

Why oh why? That stuff is a sticky disgusting mess. How about some wax from an old candle?

Because toilet bowl gasket wax has more mojo, and feeds the tone worms.

 

[bonesofwrath]

I got a wenge ebony neck with a cockeyed brass insert. I even have a small chunk of wenge from the local lumber store. I'm letting it season. Another 8-9 years ought to do it.

 

[bagman67]

yeah, you don't want to jump into things too soon.

 

[teleme01]

Good advice. But here's the problem: I've got a Warmoth Jazzmaster body on the bench. I sanded through the clearcoat into the dyed wood.

Oh, I definitely walked away. No compounding errors for me.

The problem is that this happened 4 months ago, and I have ZERO interest in sanding back and starting over. Again. Because I already started over two previous times.

I'm debating throwing the stupid thing on eBay for a $1 starting price, and just walking away.


Why oh why? That stuff is a sticky disgusting mess. How about some wax from an old candle?

I make the 1st bid @ $10 And I'll pay shipping, sight unseen.