User's guide to tru-oil finish

jyjvstrat

Newbie
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Hey everyone! I searched but couldn't find an answer to this.

I have an old Fender JV Squier ('82) that has always been plagued by neck problems. I finally sent it to a high end luthier who confirmed the neck was toast (mostly because prior luthiers butchered it trying to 'fix' it). He recommended a Warmoth neck (never heard of 'em?), so I took his advice. I ordered a maple '59 roundback, maple fretboard, 21 6105 SS frets, 9.5"-14". I had never owned a compound radius before.

The luthier offered to tru oil the neck for me.

So I get the guitar, and I'm completely in love with this neck. I can't put it down! The tru-oil finish is very smooth and fast.

So my questions are: what are the expected wear, and, what's the general care? The reason I ask is that, in < 1 week of moderate playing (1-3 hrs a day), I noticed the following:
1) there is already dirt buildup on the maple fretbord. grey/black. The strings are new (D'addario 10s) and I do wash my hands before playing.
2) on the back, where there is a light shean / gloss from the finish, there are some rough patches starting where my hand makes the most contact. Of course, there's nothing on my hands to hurt the wood.

Is this normal? Will the neck "roughen up" a little as I play it and break in, so to speak?

I emailed the luthier about it (will hear back soon I hope), but I also wanted to ask around here.

PS - I've also since ordered my own warmoth both/neck to make my own tele! Wish me luck!
 
I tru oiled my baritele neck with a maple shaft about 11 years ago just about one or two layers above grain fill, and I have not had to touch up in the slightest, nor have I had to make any truss rod adjustments, zero, zilch, none.  Additionally, I have a Birdseye maple rifle stock that I had built 31 years ago that was finished in true oil, and a side from a minimal scratch or two from going through the brush, it’s only needed a spot rub of true oil once or twice.
 
Thanks, that's helpful. I wonder what others' experiences are. My luthier is off until next week, but I'll ask him what he thinks...
 
Perhaps the Tru-Oil on your neck may have been applied a little thick and perhaps is not fully hardened leading to what you are experiencing.
 
I've now done 3 roasted maple necks with TruOil.  One of them I didn't spend as much time on, and it shows.  Fret board is looking a smidge dirty and what not, while the others don't.

The difference was sanding between the frets to 1000 grit or so, and then 2 light passes of TruOil on the fretboard, and let dry.  Hope that helps.
 
Very important to let the tru-oil cure at least a month before playing.  If you play before then you get smudges etc.  Eventually it will settle down then you apply another coat and you're done.  Let cure a month.  Or you could do nothing, play  it and the smudges etc will wear off eventually.
 
Ok Thanks. I checked my email and it's about a month to the day that he said the neck was finished.

I'll keep playing it. I'll ask around on here what to do if the roughness on the back keeps up. I'm pretty handy and interested in doing my own finishing, so if all I end up doing in the end is a bit of fine sanding and re-apply tru oil. I could manage that.

Thanks!!
 
Tru-Oil is "Life by the drop" as SRV would say. Especially on tight grain wood, a very little goes a looong way. If you got goop and dirt sticking in the finish, it was likely put on excessively. The good news is it sands off real easy because even a thick coat isn't very thick. If it is too gooey to sand, Acetone will strip it.

I would suggest either sending it back to Luther the Luthier and let him deal with it or just sand it off and put 2 or 3 really light coats back on it with at least 24 hours between. Then put it away for a month, more is better. Once it is really dry, you can very gingerly smooth and polish it with some 1500 grit paper or a fine scotchbite. It will set up rock hard and very durable if done correctly. Seriously, a few drops will do the back of a neck, I hand rub it with (ta da) my hand, no rag required. Each coat should look almost dry when you are done applying it.

Think gunstocks that go afield in all kinds of weather through the briars and underbrush. It is not a sissy finish.
 
OK Thanks everyone, this insight really helps. I think it may have been put on too excessively.

The bad news is that (very long convoluted story ensues) the luthier is remote and I shipped the guitar to get it done, so I'm not sure I'd ship for this. I may see how it plays out and then try to fix it myself.
 
Absolutely you can fix it yourself.  Sand off the gloppy parts as suggested.  Let it dry two weeks.  Then put on uber thing coats, at least 5, and you should be good.  Later coats thin with naptha.  Then let dry for a month, buff and it will be beautiful.
 
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