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[Tuner] Install Sperzel T/L

Bruno

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The Sperzel need another little hole (where the pin enters the tuner).
Warmoth preparation includes this additional small hole?






p.s.:
I am undecided.
I don't want the *retainer* and Sperzel T/L  are ok (staggered 2 to 2).
Absolutely I don't want (my obsession: more aesthetic that functional :P)
On the forum a few friends have said that what makes the difference is the nut.
I agree, but with any tuners retainer is necessary too.
I'm not sure that with Schaller mini locking I don't need (strat headstock) or with Planet waves, so...I choose Sperzel T/L :D
 
Thank!

But....argh   :tard:
I'm really unable to do these works
So I must abandon Sperzel  and I'll choose the Schaller M6 (mini locking tuner, warmoht), hoping that REALLY do not require retainer
 
Some people also just cut out the guide pins from the Spezerls, no big deal, no holes to drill.

Sperzels come with a small template of their own to center-punch the guide pin, no big deal, a 5year old kiddo can do it, don't worry about it.

Sperzels are about the only ones I founds that are staggered 2 by 2 and they are very well built.
 
Bruno said:
Thank!

But....argh   :tard:
I'm really unable to do these works
So I must abandon Sperzel  and I'll choose the Schaller M6 (mini locking tuner, warmoht), hoping that REALLY do not require retainer

Regardless of which tuner you pick, you're going to end up drilling some locator holes. Whether it's for little screws or little pins, it's gotta be done and the process is the same in any event. Schallers, Sperzels, Planet Waves, Gotohs all require holes be drilled. If doing so is really impossible for you and you have to go somewhere to have it done, you may as well pick the tuners you like the best.
 
I don't agree
:blob7:
To install Gotoh SG and Kluson vintage it's very simple (IMO of course).
I've done it several times
Not for Sperzel. I have not references to align and make the hole at the same time (the big difference - IMO again :P)
 
All you have to do is install the tuner, tighten the nut a little bit, make a nice indention with the pin, remove the tuner, drill the hole using the indentation as a guide. Really not that difficult at all. In fact it's almost as easy as pissing and moaning on a forum :dontknow:
 
On sperzel tuners that I've got they would have to be filed off.

But .... I would not recommend that.  the little post is the only thing keeping the tuner from spinning around on you.
 
They're just roll pins, so they'd be a lot easier to remove than cut off. All that's holding them in is friction due to spring pressure; it's not an interference fit. The toughest part would be holding the body of the tuner in place without defacing the surface while you pried the pin out. All you'd need is a vice with some kind of jaw padding to protect the finish of the tuner body, then a pair of side cutters could be used like a pair of pliers to grip the pin close to the tuner body's surface and rotate/pry the pin out.

Really, though, drilling the holes for those pins in the neck isn't any big deal. The retail packaging for Sperzels comes with a template, or you can make one yourself. Use a bit of tape on the drill bit to set the depth so you don't drill through the headstock, and you're good to go. Like Mayfly says, it's the only thing keeping that tuner from spinning under pressure, so you don't really want to remove them.
 
Incidentally, for those who aren't familiar with what a "roll pin" is, this is what they usually look like:

.22-LR-Firing-Pin-Roll-Pin1349-2474.jpg


They're usually made of spring steel, and are compressed to fit into a hole to secure something. When you let go of them, they expand to their original diameter, and friction holds them in place.
 
actually, the Sperzels that I've got had the pin cast into the body of the tuner.  I'm referring to these ones:

02-03003.jpg


 
I was talking about the locking tuners, like these...

Sperzel_Trim-Lok_Guitar_Machines_lg.jpg


You can't see the locator pin in that picture, but I have some loose around here that I looked at before I made the previous post, so I know the roll pin trick is what they're doing with those. I can see where it would be as easy or even easier to simply make the pin part of the housing casting. Not sure why they don't. It would make sense. And in that case, you're right, you'd have to grind the locator off rather than cut it or pull a pin.
 
Hey, I just drilled my guide pins today, it's breeze to do really.

I put a piece of masking tape to the headstock and drew a line at 1/4'' from the top of the headstock, running along, parallel to that 'top line' to give me an idea of parallellism in order to guide the tuners. Then I used the cardboard template that comes attached with the tuners in their package to locate the guide pin.

I used a 11/64th drill bit, could have used one step smaller but I played it safe.

All 6 tuners aligned perfectly fine with my line, really, it's just that easy, don't think too hard about it and just do it  :glasses10:
 
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