truss rod adjustment

i have but if you say it to a woman be prepared to take a beating, they have nails! they pull hair, they kick and if needed they bite.
 
JohninSC said:
P.S the knobs on the wife will actually do something if you know how to turn them the right way.

yah buts a lot less work with the amp... and the tone is better.... not to mention louder... plus you can shut the damn amp OFF when you want silence
 
You want 0.4mm maximum relief (usually this occurs at about the 7th fret) when the string is fretted at the 1st fret AND the body fret.  To measure this, the guitar must be tuned to concert pitch, although the action doesn't have to be correct, nor do the nut slots.

If the relief is too little, slacken the truss rod, If it's too much, tighten the truss rod.  Work  1/8 of a turn at a time, never force anything, and re-tune and re-check the relief after each small adjustment.

You will have to do this again if you change the weight (or even brand, because some, like Fender Super Bullets, have a heavier bass) of strings.
 
This thread should have been beaten, stabbed, poisoned and abandoned by the roadside long ago. Look at the dates, guys. If the guy doesn't have his setup by now, he's probably playing keyboards already.
 
relief actually also depends on scale length and type of radius.

there is one important thing you need with a truss rod, FEELER GAUGES, i coulden't stress that enough, guessing game is over with those little buggers.

there's also this vid that teaches you how to do it very nicely: (suhr guitar site)

http://gallery.mac.com/suhrguitars

and if you want the "perfect" set up, get this tool.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Measuring_tools/Neck_Relief_Gauge.html
 
Hmmm...weird thread.  Anyway, the simple, and equally madening answer I have, is that there is possibly no right answer.  I am an experienced guitar repairman, and have adjusted a 1000 truss rods I guess...and quite honestly, each one reacts a little different.

Most of the time, almost totally flat, with a tiny bit of upcurve will work good.  Sometimes I need to readjust the saddles to work with the new adjustment, and sometimes I choose to lower the nut slots a tiny bit if needed.

If I had the chance to adjust it for you, I'd show you what I'm doing.

Alot of times, I let the guitar tell me what it's going to allow.  Each one is different, and it's my job to pull out it's 'best'.

Best of luck,
Mark Stockwell
stockwellguitars@aol.com

p.s. congrats on marriage!
 
Hi,

I just got my first Warmoth and now I am trying to add the strings. However, it seems that the truss rod adjustment screw is very loose, and the neck bows (towards the strings & bridge) if I tighten any strings. The screw still remain loose..

So, do I have to tighten all the strings and see if the neck adjusts by itself and tightens also the truss rod (-> screw is tight too)? I wouldn't want to break this one.. :)
 
Welcome to the boards!

What is happening to you is normal.  If the truss rod nut is completely loose then there will be no tension to counter the pull of the strings, hence the neck will pull into an upbow.   The nut should be just tight enough for the neck to be flat.  Does it adjust at the peghead or at the heel?

Don't keep the neck at full string tension with the truss rod completely loose for any long period of time.
 
Blue313 said:
Welcome to the boards!

What is happening to you is normal.  If the truss rod nut is completely loose then there will be no tension to counter the pull of the strings, hence the neck will pull into an upbow.   The nut should be just tight enough for the neck to be flat.  Does it adjust at the peghead or at the heel?

Don't keep the neck at full string tension with the truss rod completely loose for any long period of time.

So, if I tighten the screw, the neck will bend downwards, away from the strings? It adjusts at the peghead.
 
Yes, if you tighten the truss rod it will exert tension on the neck that will somewhat counter the pull of the strings.  Since yours adjusts at the peghead you can do it under string tension without having to remove the neck from the body.  Just go SLOW, 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn at a time and recheck.  Usually almost dead flat with a little relief works well for most guitarists.

Do you have a straight edge?  Anything that's very straight, but thin enough to fit between the strings, will be a big help (roofing square, the shaft of a t-square, etc).  It'll help you to gauge what you're doing.


StockwellGuitars said:
Oh...hey...sorry I gave you that free advice up above...I guess that it's against the 'spirit' of the boards... :(
I'm thinking I missed something here. :dontknow: 
I absolutely refuse to charge someone for advice when they're seeking knowledge and not my professional services.



Humanoid - Please continue with any questions you have and ignore that comment about not giving out free advice.  :icon_thumright:
 
Thanks alot :) Now I know what to do.

If I only manage to find the right key/wrench for that screw. Already bought few ones but no match. Warmoth should definetely include one with the neck..
 
Maybe the fitting wrench sizes is a bit of info that could be added to the W site. They have a lot of really good technical background info complete with diagrams (if you take the effort to look for it), but adding this kind of information would be a definite plus. Especially with hex, where both metric and fractional inch versions exist and some of them are darn close to fitting the other - but not quite. Just close enough to damage the head when you apply force.
Alternatively we could start a sticky on 'the right tool to use for...'
 
Not a bad idea actually Bytefrenzy.  I don't think they'd be abject to something like that.

What style of neck is it you got from Warmoth?  Better yet....got a pic?  :icon_biggrin:
 
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