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tru oil question

asix

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when im oiling the neck should i attach it to a spare bit of wood to make handling it easier? that would leave b bit of the heal unfurnished as i was thinking of doing it. any thoughts please. 
 
asix said:
when im oiling the neck should i attach it to a spare bit of wood to make handling it easier? that would leave b bit of the heal unfurnished as i was thinking of doing it. any thoughts please.

I don't know how else you're going to handle it. Those who spray finishes can hang the thing by a peghole, but you won't have that option. I wouldn't worry about a bit of unfinished heel.
 
I got a question about Tru Oil.

I know you can dye it, what is the best product to use?

Rit?
Aniline dye?
I have a selection of natural dyes, bone black Ti Oxide, ect.

Suggestions?
Experience?

:icon_scratch:
 
My understanding is you don't want to tint it. Not sure why, but I suspect there are separation issues that lead to uneven results. What you do is either dye the underlying surface, then finish over it, or dye the thinner before mixing it in with the solids.

That said, Mixol makes some tints they describe as "universal" and suitable for just about anything, including oil. I don't know what makes them that way, but that's their claim. I haven't tried them, so I can't say how well they work. But, I imagine if they didn't work they'd be in trouble.
 
You can tint Tru-Oil, but you're better served dying the wood rather than the top coats.  Here's why... If you dye the wood, you can highlight the figuring or grain pattern using multiple colors, techniques (dye, then sand back), and products (BLO for 'pop').  After these processes, apply the TO for an opaque, durable finish.

If you tint the TO, you lose the ability to highlight the natural beauty of the wood for the following reasons:  TO does not soak into the wood beyond the first application.  TO is basically BLO with hardeners added.  Subsequent applications of TO build layer upon layer with each new application.  If you tint the TO, you will be adding a new 'dark' layer to your project with each application.  The more layers you apply, the less opaque your project becomes-- you lose some visual of the wood grain with each application of tinted TO.

Not my first choice, but if you must.... Oil based paints in TUBE FORM work well.  You can find them at art supply stores.
 
telecutie said:
If you tint the TO, you will be adding a new 'dark' layer to your project with each application.  The more layers you apply, the less opaque your project becomes-- you lose some visual of the wood grain with each application of tinted TO.

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[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif][/size]As far as that goes, you can stop applying tinted Tru-Oil as soon as you have the color where you want it, and continue with un-tinted after that.  Same as you'd do with a lacquer toner.[size=78%][/font]
 
Bagman67 said:
telecutie said:
If you tint the TO, you will be adding a new 'dark' layer to your project with each application.  The more layers you apply, the less opaque your project becomes-- you lose some visual of the wood grain with each application of tinted TO.
As far as that goes, you can stop applying tinted Tru-Oil as soon as you have the color where you want it, and continue with un-tinted after that.  Same as you'd do with a lacquer toner.

Both of these answers are what I am looking for, Thanks!
This is good to know.

I will be having a SW/Ash body done, no fancy top this time.
I want to do opaque finish with a canary neck, more than likely it will be black with Chrome HDW.
And black faced headstock.

I found out elsewhere that it can also be used over DeWaxed Shellac.
so my options are varied.
 
I've put 3 coats a day for the last 4 days. The UK is cold and damp, I don't doubt it would dry a lot quicker in (insert a hot place). I can just about see the grain of the wood. I've flatted it back a bit. It does feel sweet now kind of played a lot but I'm thinking of going a bit further I don't want to see the grain of the woods.
 
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