Trem stopper

[Cederick]

I can't seem to set it up my Floyd on my Warmoth Soloist properly. Intonation is a fudging pain cos I have loosen a string to reach that fudging screw underneath... Aaaah!!! I tired one string and just totally gave up after an hour of nothing good coming out of it.

So I was looking for a cheaper solution than the ridicolously priced Tremol-No and I didn't want to have some clunky blocks inserted, and found this:

Have anybody tried these out? The real product seems a bit expensive for a pair of screws and metal thing.
20 dollars for one... :S

But I figured out that just going to a local hardware store I would be able to find something very similar.
A little bent metal thing, a pair of screws... Maybe 5 dollars max.

So I need to know if it's worth it, or if the screw will shake and make the bridge out of tune once again?

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I did something similar for a customer once, just took a metal spacer and screwed in in there between 2 springs.

Really cheap, easy to remove, only takes two little humbucker mounting ring screws, the short ones are fine.  Just pre-drill the holes before installing.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Pickup_parts/Humbucker_pickup_parts/Metal_Spacer.html

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Floyds are a pain to set up?  Well I must say, this is news to me. :icon_jokercolor:

There is a tool out there to help with Floyd intonation.  Maybe some blue locktite will help the screw stubbornly stay in place on the trem block so it won't move with use.

http://www.stewmac.com/Shopping?actn=search&keyword=floyd+rose+intonation+tool&x=29&y=13

 

[Jumble Jumble]

Well yeah, comparatively speaking, if someone had to invent a tool to make intonating a FR as easy as a normal bridge, then they're a pain - compared to a normal bridge.

And with the amount of compound necks on this forum, there must be either a hell of a lot of shimming going on, or a hell of a lot of necks that end at 16" with the strings at about an 11.5" radius over them. So that's not great either.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

... a hell of a lot of shimming going on ...

Are you shimming me?  :laughing7:

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

The Key, by Allparts can make for some very precise intonation setup on a Floyd, but with that being said, I've had them setup and running fully intonated in under 30 minutes.

 

[Cederick]

Yeah lots of stuff going on....

But yeah if this little thing could work (or a similar from a local hardware store) I will go with it and finally be able to start setup my Warmoth
guitar

 

[Strat Avenger]

I have them installed in 2 of my guitars (2 in each guitar with 3 springs).

It works for me, for the most part. Of course if a string stretches or the neck shifts and doesn't return to pitch, you can not give it a quick pull up to tweak it back to pitch. I do love the stability of the bridge when set like that to "dive only".

I'm getting old, 'cuz now I just want all my future guitars to be hardtails.
I'll leave all the whammy tricks to Vai, Satriani, and Van Halen, and just play my guitar.

 

[swarfrat]

I'm contemplating yanking the springs and blocking my Wilky, and using the spring space for my graphtech stuff.

 

[Dan025]

Well yeah, comparatively speaking, if someone had to invent a tool to make intonating a FR as easy as a normal bridge, then they're a pain - compared to a normal bridge.

And with the amount of compound necks on this forum, there must be either a hell of a lot of shimming going on, or a hell of a lot of necks that end at 16" with the strings at about an 11.5" radius over them. So that's not great either.

there are Floyd's with a 14” radius. and the mismatch isn't as bad as you think. the shim is minimal. I had it all figured out some years ago and if I remember right from 14" to 18.5" the difference in height on a chord the length of the distance between strings at the bridge is only about the thickness of a high e or b string. it was a while I did this so my memory may be off but that's how I remember it. I'll look up old threads later where it was discussed. though that number may actually be from what I figured from a specific fret by figuring what the difference in radius might be on the playing surface. either way even if you figure the difference at the bridge the difference on the playing surface is less and becomes less as you approach the nut.

 

[Cederick]

I have them installed in 2 of my guitars (2 in each guitar with 3 springs).

It works for me, for the most part. Of course if a string stretches or the neck shifts and doesn't return to pitch, you can not give it a quick pull up to tweak it back to pitch. I do love the stability of the bridge when set like that to "dive only".

I'm getting old, 'cuz now I just want all my future guitars to be hardtails.
I'll leave all the whammy tricks to Vai, Satriani, and Van Halen, and just play my guitar.

Ok so I don't have that much experience with Floyds, this being my first experience with an actual Original instead of edges and licensed, but what do you mean with a string dont return to pitch?
Is it like when bending it might slip a bit under the locking nut?

I don't wanna install a block, because I know that some day I wanna do some pull-up tricks and I just need to screw the screws back a bit

I'm also most for hardtail, so my first Warmoth was in some way a naive order (hardtail strat up next :cool01 but I still don't want to get rid of it, since I put so much effort in the paint job.
I usually play speed/power metal but want a hardtail, but making cheesy 80s divebomb effects in recordings is a must so I need a guitar for effects near hand

 

[Strat Avenger]

I have them installed in 2 of my guitars (2 in each guitar with 3 springs).

It works for me, for the most part. Of course if a string stretches or the neck shifts and doesn't return to pitch, you can not give it a quick pull up to tweak it back to pitch. I do love the stability of the bridge when set like that to "dive only".

I'm getting old, 'cuz now I just want all my future guitars to be hardtails.
I'll leave all the whammy tricks to Vai, Satriani, and Van Halen, and just play my guitar.

Ok so I don't have that much experience with Floyds, this being my first experience with an actual Original instead of edges and licensed, but what do you mean with a string dont return to pitch?
Is it like when bending it might slip a bit under the locking nut?

I don't wanna install a block, because I know that some day I wanna do some pull-up tricks and I just need to screw the screws back a bit

I'm also most for hardtail, so my first Warmoth was in some way a naive order (hardtail strat up next :cool01 but I still don't want to get rid of it, since I put so much effort in the paint job.
I usually play speed/power metal but want a hardtail, but making cheesy 80s divebomb effects in recordings is a must so I need a guitar for effects near hand

It's a decades-old technique where you just give the bar a quick yank upwards and it kind'a balances out the tension and returns the string to pitch (or closer to pitch). Eddie Van Halen used that technique in the late '70s with his 6-screw Fender "Tremolo" bridges before Floyds even existed.

You can still do it with the trem-stop, but your bridge will have to be slightly floating, which kind'a defeats the purpose of the trem-stop.

 

[Cederick]

Yeah I'll go with the trem stop because I wanna be able to easly set up the guitar without worrying about the bridge leaning backwards every time I need
to loosen a stirng to set intonation screw...

 

[swarfrat]

My bad, on the tiny screen I thought it was completely fixing the trem, not just an adjustable stop.  Two questions I have: Does the metal on metal make for a loud clunk when you release the trem? And unless you put loctite purple or a lock nut on it, it seems like your tuning stop would have the potential to walk  under bombardment from loading and unloading whenever you use the trem.

 

[Strat Avenger]

My bad, on the tiny screen I thought it was completely fixing the trem, not just an adjustable stop.  Two questions I have: Does the metal on metal make for a loud clunk when you release the trem? And unless you put loctite purple or a lock nut on it, it seems like your tuning stop would have the potential to walk  under bombardment from loading and unloading whenever you use the trem.

You can hear the block make contact with the screw when unplugged, but not through the amp when you're playing.

I used blue loctite on mine.

 

[Jumble Jumble]

I'll leave all the whammy tricks to Vai, Satriani, and Van Halen, and just play my guitar.

I feel the same about bends, hammer-ons and vibrato. Never mind the fancy stuff, just play the guitar.

 

[AutoBat]

All that "fancy stuff" is playing the guitar!

 

[Jumble Jumble]

You have successfully understood my point.

 

[Strat Avenger]

And being that there is so much you can do with bends, vibrato, and hammer-ons, it pretty much nullifies the need for a "whammy bar".

 

[Jumble Jumble]

Of course there's no "need" for one. It's just another tool, and on a guitar with a trem I don't see how using it is different do doing a bend, or finger vibrato, etc.