Trans Yellow tint.......how to get ?

[Unwound G]

Can anyone please tell me how to get the same shade as Warmoth's Trans Yellow ?

I have experimented with Lemon Yellow pigment stain but there is still a light pigment missing.  Could it be red ?  I intend to shade a Quilted Maple face body.

Please help.

 

[Unwound G]

Here is a color sample.

 

[stubhead]

There's a lot of ways to go but I'd personally start with yellow, red and brown mixed up from LMII dry powders. It takes only a tiny bit of darker dye to change the mix of a light color dramatically. (5%, 10%?) You'll want to make up test batches and daub them on some light wood, pine oughta work if it's sanded to new, whitish wood. OF COURSE it would be best to run your test batches on AAA grade quilt maple... but that's not going to happen. With water-based dyes, you can usually rinse it lighter, or you can bleach it and start over if you blow it completely. OF COURSE MEK-based dyes are more intense.... sigh. I think maybe you can bleach and start over MEK dyes with... some kind of solvent?

It will be easiest to make your test mixes measuring with a graduated syringe (no needle needed), or at least a graduated eyedropper. WRITE DOWN your ratios. Or you'll end up with a half-dozen little bottles of various blends and you can't remember shit.

IT RARELY PAYS OFF TO KEEP POURING MORE LIGHT COLOR INTO A DARK BATCH TO "SAVE" IT!  You can use a too-brown "yellow" as your new "brown" to darken more new "yellow", but there you're quickly heading down the slope where you can't remember shit.... dyes are pretty cheap, compared to spending the rest of your life staring at a guitar you hate because you blew it. Dye the cat! Dye your sheets! Dye... something.....

Dan Erlewine's recipe for "Vintage Amber" is:
8 parts yellow
2 parts brown
1 part red
- but it doesn't say how dark each one is to start with.... might make a difference, hmmm. :blob7:

 

[jackthehack]

Check the 3 shades of yellow of the Mixol universal dye concentrates at the Woodcraft link below, you can get them shipped if there's not a store near you. The 20ml bottles will do more than one guitar if mixed in lacquer to shoot or lacquer thinner to apply as dye. Yellows can be hard to discern on computer monitors, suspect the one you want would be the canary yellow, but they're only 5 bucks a bottle, grab one of each and experiment.

You're definitely looking for a tint a LOT brighter/yellower than vintage amber...



http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=832392&FamilyID=5522

 

[Unwound G]

Thanks guys.

Canary Yellow is probably close.  I will test the shade on a piece of whitish pine like how stubhead suggested.  If the shade looks close, I will shoot some lacquer on it to match against what I am visualizing.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I used Reranch's alcohol soluble yellow dye and it looks very similar to that.  If it is too yellow, paper towels and clean denatured alcohol will tone it down.
Patrick

 

[Keyser Soze]

Looks like an orange candy color to me.

If you have spray gear you might consider dye stain(s) used as toner in a clear topcoat.

That color is going to be really hard to reproduce as a pigment stain.  Pigment stain particles, relatively speaking, are huge and behave much differently from toners that remain in the finish as opposed to settling out on the wood.  The maple effect could probably be approximated using an orange then yellow dye staining of the wood with light sanding between colors.  The ash effect can only be accomplished with a toner in a clear surface film (ash takes stains very poorly.)

 

[Unwound G]

Looks like an orange candy color to me.

If you have spray gear you might consider dye stain(s) used as toner in a clear topcoat.

That color is going to be really hard to reproduce as a pigment stain.  Pigment stain particles, relatively speaking, are huge and behave much differently from toners that remain in the finish as opposed to settling out on the wood.  The maple effect could probably be approximated using an orange then yellow dye staining of the wood with light sanding between colors.  The ash effect can only be accomplished with a toner in a clear surface film (ash takes stains very poorly.)

Thanks for your input.

I cannot agree with you more.

Presently I am experimenting with rub on alcohol dyes.  Once I get the correct shade, I will seal it with clear lacquer.  I think the effect will even be better for the grains to jump out.

 

[jay4321]

Find a light-colored piece of ash and then contact Tonar. This one's a little more golden-ish, but makes more sense with a black pickguard when I keep photoshopping it. There are a couple pure trans yellows in the Gallery that are cartoon-y looking w/ black pickguards in particular, that probably looked great on their own.

Here it is with yellow tint. Check first post for side by side.

and here's what I'd originally dreamed up

By the way, the yellow on that mockup is I believe from the back of that strat you posted