To seal or not to seal..

[thumb55]

My blue strat project is gaining momentim.  I've settled on a solid shade of blue stain. 

Gave up on the burst idea.  This is only my 2nd peoject and my first time with a spray finish.  Just too much right now, probably should have done a  solid finish first anyway.

Also gave up on the black/dark blue first coat, sand off and come back with a lighter shade of blue.  I just can't make it work right.

I'm using the Stewart Macdonald nitro system, so after I apply the stain on a Maple top/Alder body should I use a sealer coat(s) or should I go to the nitro to "burn in" the stain? I hope I have that concept right.

 

[Tonar8352]

I do not use sealer and when I spray my first coats I do a wash coat.  I really thin the finish heavy, like 2 parts of thinner to 1 part finish with a splash of retarder.  On the first couple of coats I shoot them dry, I hold the gun further from the surface and turn the air up a little and the fluid down a little. 

I let that set over night to really shrink in and then I hit it with two full wet coats.  After they are dry level sand and then start applying the final coats. 

 

[-CB-]

If  it makes you feel better, you can hit it with two coats of clear shellac.  The Zinsser Bullseye is wax free enough to be used under nitro, no priblem.   Its the only pre-prepared shellac that gets the endorsement of Frank Ford (arguably the best repairman on the planet).

If you hit it with two coats of shellac, sprayed on (it comes in aerosol now), that will be a barrier between the wood/dye and nitro.  I find... it somewhat useful, but not a "must do".   

Where shellac REALLY earns its keep is over decals before nitro.  In that case, it just about prevents the decal from looking like a dead spider.

 

[thumb55]

Since I'm using Stew Mac rattle can's, can I approximate a thinned out coat of nitro by lightly spraying from a distance?

 

[jackthehack]

What do you have on hand in terms of rattle cans? Do you have nitro sanding sealer already on hand? What are you shooting it on top of? Hard to tell from your post; you sanded everything back and applied what kind of stain?

 

[thumb55]

I haven't really sprayed or applied anything to the body.  It's alder with a quilt top by the way.

I tested the colors (stain ideas) on some quilted maple pin blanks I bought from woodcraft.

I have Stew Mac colortone stains (blue&black-w- Behkol solvent), 3 cans of nitro and 1 can of sealer. (Plus a bunch of rubbing compound stuff)

I'd love to do that burst you are working on Jack, but I'm pretty green at this and I'd rather not screw up a nice body.  I figured I could do a nice dye job and live with it. 

 

[jackthehack]

If you've already got the sealer, and are a bit jicky about the rattle cans, I'd suggest:

1.) Finish all your dying/staining until you are satisfied with color.
2.) Shoot 2-4 coats of the sealer.
3.) Level sealer coat back to #320/400.
4.) Start applying your top gloss coats.

You can jjust use the nitro top finish as sealer as well, but you have to build up the coats very slowly, just barely "dusting" the body till you get a layer built up. Easier/quicler to use the sealer if you've already got a can.

 

[thumb55]

My blue is sort of a bright medium blue.  In the quilt it looks a little washed out.  What will happen when I spray the sealer?

From what I've read, it was my guess (hope) that the stain would bleed a little. Burn in?  I don't know if thats the right way to describe it though. 

If I use the sealer would that limit that?

I'll post some pick's of my samples.  Hell, I could just spray the thing's and compair sealer vs. nitro.

 

[-CB-]

Since I'm using Stew Mac rattle can's, can I approximate a thinned out coat of nitro by lightly spraying from a distance?

No.  What you'd get in that case is dust.  What you want is THIN nitro (not doable in an aerosol).  The "thin" part makes it penetrate, and dry very quickly.

But rattle can Zinsser is available at Home Depot and Lowes.