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Thoughts and advice for 1st Warmoth build...

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ztevie

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Hi!

So I'm gasing for a build, which will also be my first. I'd really like some advice and overall thoughts from you people here, who are more experienced with Warmoth stuff and regarding building overall...
It will be a 7/8 strat, with the 24 3/4" scale Warhead neck. Maple neck and fretboard in clear satin, probably birdseye. I want it clean and simple. Alpine white or Inca Silver body, black pickguard and pickups. H-S-S.
Now, what I'm not so sure about is f I should get hardtail or a Wlkinson. I don't use the whammy much, well almost never actually, so I was thinking a hardtail might be in place for better sustain and tone?

Will Warmoth install studs for any bridge I send themsuggestions for a clean looking hardtail? Read about this Scartozi bridge here, looked pretty cool, but with that one I first have to have the guitar routed for a standard strat 6-screw tremolo, right? Seems like overkill if I already plan to have a hardtail...

The same goes for if I'd like to send them a tremolo they don't have. Will they do the routing for me if they get the bridge. I would really like a trem that could be locked to hardtail, like the Wilkinson VS-100C, which is unfortunately unavailable. But there might be others with a similar function, or I could just get a Tremol-No...
Regarding Wilkinson: What's the difference with normal and recessed? I understand the recessed is installed deeper in the body, which I prefer, but what are the consequences? Will they have to route the neck pocket deeper, or do I just raise the saddles more? I'm not sure raising the saddles too much will look nice, or it might effect sustain/tone?

Is it possible to get a Warhead neck where the trussrod can be adjusted in the head? I don't see that option so I guess not...
Would a string-tree be needed for a Warhead neck? Nut will be a Graph Tech TUSQ.
Iv'e been playing with the thought of getting a more exotic neck wood, like Pau Ferro for example. But I see there are no finish options available on those. Why not? I guess they are not that sensitive for humidity changes but I live in Sweden where winters are very cold and dry, so I would really like a satin finish on the neck.

Many questions and thoughts pop up, but I hope I can get som advice from you guys... :occasion14:
 
ztevie said:
Read about this Scartozi bridge here, looked pretty cool,
but with that one I first have to have the guitar routed for a standard strat 6-screw tremolo, right?
Seems like overkill if I already plan to have a hardtail...
:redflag:  I'm one of those that has scartozi bridge (BTW  :dontknow:  haven't seen or heard from him for a while)
I have 2 of the one's that replace the vintage 6 hole tremolo.
Here is one .... http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=19826.0
And an install of .... http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=19185.0

Please Note .....
He has made Hard Tail ones too, Cagey has one on a Tele. (I can't find it at the minute)
He was doing anything that you wanted, with-in reason.
They are very solid and very comfy.

You can send to Warmoth bridge studs .... But ring / email them 1st to make sure all is OK for what you want to use.
I've never used any string tees on Strat or Tele or Firebird or V necks.
As I always use Graph tech nuts with locking tuners, that's with a Hard Tail or Tremlo or String though.

Yep .... Raw necks are very very nice indeed  :icon_thumright:  ... Plus the SS Frets  :icon_biggrin:
 
ztevie said:
Is it possible to get a Warhead neck where the trussrod can be adjusted in the head?
Yes. You just need to look for total vintage or vintage modern. Also, any of the strat or CBS strat headstock necks in the showcase can be cut into the Warhead shape for a fee ($45?)
One other idea is to use the angled strat and have it made as a warhead, then you could have Pro construction AND head adjustable truss rod.
 
Found it ....  :doh:
Here's Cagey's Tele with a hard tail scartozi bridge.
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=19625.0
 
AutoBat said:
ztevie said:
Is it possible to get a Warhead neck where the trussrod can be adjusted in the head?
Yes. You just need to look for total vintage or vintage modern. Also, any of the strat or CBS strat headstock necks in the showcase can be cut into the Warhead shape for a fee ($45?)
One other idea is to use the angled strat and have it made as a warhead, then you could have Pro construction AND head adjustable truss rod.
Actually, he is going to use the 24.75 scale 24 fret neck, which does not have the option for vintage modern. Total vintage doesn't have headstock adjustment anyhow.
But OP, you'll find that the Pro necks with the double truss rod are very stable and almost never need adjustment. Even in Sweden, I doubt you'll need to do adjustments once you've set it up the first time.
Also, I would recommend an exotic wood. They don't require a finish because, unlike maple or mahogany, they don't tend to dry out and become unstable. And they feel smooth and awesome.
As for bridges, I would not get a tremolo if you don't use one - they weigh more, add complication, and change the tone - less sustain, more "airy" sound. Don't know much about the scartozi bridge though, I'm a fan of hipshot hardware.
 
Thanks for all the answers!

Yeah, I had my eyes on Hipshot hardtails. Clean look and seems sturdy enough. Do Warmoth drill holes for those? Of course I could do it myself, but to avoid mistakes I'd feel more comfortable if they did it...

I'll think about that raw neck. But are these exotic woods less likely to warp or are they unfinished just because they won't take finish that well? I see that Warmoth's warranty is valid on those even unfinished, so...?
 
Lot's of people just like it that way. I've yet to try a raw guitar neck, though I've playe raw bass necks, I personally don't prefer on over the other. Unfinished necks are faster, though, if that's what you're going for.
 
ztevie said:
Thanks for all the answers!

Yeah, I had my eyes on Hipshot hardtails. Clean look and seems sturdy enough. Do Warmoth drill holes for those? Of course I could do it myself, but to avoid mistakes I'd feel more comfortable if they did it...

I'll think about that raw neck. But are these exotic woods less likely to warp or are they unfinished just because they won't take finish that well? I see that Warmoth's warranty is valid on those even unfinished, so...?

First off, Warmoth necks don't warp. Second, all of the necks they sell that don't need a finish are stable without finishes.
 
ztevie said:
Yeah, I had my eyes on Hipshot hardtails. Clean look and seems sturdy enough. Do Warmoth drill holes for those? Of course I could do it myself, but to avoid mistakes I'd feel more comfortable if they did it...

There's a page on Warmoth's site that describes what drill patterns/routing they'll do automatically, as well as a list of those they'll do for a fee.

ztevie said:
I'll think about that raw neck. But are these exotic woods less likely to warp or are they unfinished just because they won't take finish that well? I see that Warmoth's warranty is valid on those even unfinished, so...?

They'll finish them if you'd like, but they offer them unfinished with the warranty intact because the woods are very stable.

Years ago, I would never have thought a raw neck would be a Good Thing, but since I started using Warmoth's parts I'm sold. They're wonderful.
 
I have this bridge on my green tele and I like it fine:


http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=328
stainlesshardtail_cropped.jpg
 
What sound do you want out of it?  Will you gig a lot with it, or record?  Got an overall vision?
 
As a person that started building guitars by buying Warmoth parts and now make some from scratch that I used to buy, I have comment based on my experience. First of all, I definitely relate to your attitude, that of wanting to make the right decisions. Your questions are all answered with one answer. YES!
Other than having vibrato or non vibrato, it is mostly about appearance and design. Your success is based on how well you assemble and set up the guitar. To that end, I suggest you become familiar with Stumac videos on guitar set up, making an electric guitar. Warmoth bodies can easily be modified by using thin veneer of many types of hardwoods just using glue and pressure google Joe Woodworker for info.
Addressing your question, I get that you want others to kind of make the decision for you. The Warmoth wood parts and hardware parts if they fit together will likely work just fine assuming it is assembled and set up properly. If you choose parts and hardware based on tone. Really not predictable. I feel like many that the concept of "tonewoods" in electric guitars meaningless. Wood cut from the same tree, but from different parts of the log are not the same, when comparing, the end result is that you can have warm sounding wood (what ever that means) from maple when compared to cold sounding (ditto) mahogany, render the whole tone wood issue meaningless. What this means is order any wood you want from Warmoth. The reason Fender went with swamp ash and then alder due to price and availability, same with Gibson it was price and availability. Now those choices are tradition and sales propaganda uses it to sell guitars. For you every choice is good which is also true with your other questions, every choice is likely as good as the other. In the long run what will affect your enjoyment of this guitar is how you have assembled it and set it up. Always keep your first guitar project, then with each build you see progress, in addition every mistake is a blueprint for how to improve. As you gain experience you will learn to see your first guitar in a new light.
One thing Warmoth does which I think is unique to them is that they will sell you a body blank with the routings for the hardware already finished, that way the shape of the guitar and guitar design represents your vision. The resale value is often less than the parts, if you care about this you are likely to get better resale value from an orginal design, than a clone with thousands of the original available.
 
tylereot said:
What sound do you want out of it?  Will you gig a lot with it, or record?  Got an overall vision?

Very good questions!
I don't gig anymore, will record at home though. I've been playing for +20 years, I can do basic setup, but never did a fretjob for example.

I have a couple of guitars, my favorite is a Peavey Vandenberg Quilt Top that is just wonderful to play. I like it's feel so much I would like the build to be 7/8 body with 24 3/4", just like that one. The Vandenberg is all mahogany, with plenty of sustain and ring to it. Another standard  Vandenberg I have is alder I believe, with maple neck and ebony fretboard. This one is snappier and treblier...
Tonewise, this guitar will have weaker pickups. All of my electric guitars now are more or less aimed at hard rock/metal, the Warmoth will have a medium power Humbucker in the bridge, with DM Area 67 in the middle, and a Injector in the neck. I think it will cover Classic rock to hard rock aswell as bluesy and clean...

I would really like it's tonality to be somewhere in the middle regarding bass/treble. I like plenty of mids in my tone. Not LesPaul bassy and not strat trebley. Rather something in between...
Bluesnote: I see your point, though I don't quite agree... I feel the choice of wood have a very big effect on the overall tone, even for electric guitars. All mahogany guitars I've played have been darker sounding, maple guitars more on the treble side. I'm sure you can find exceptions to this rule, but in general I believe thay are exceptions...
I don't know if I'll buy that many guitars in the future, but I wanted to buy a Warmoth for a long time, so if I pull the trigger now I don't see it as an experiment for learning. I want it to be a superb player!

Here's a pic of three of my guitars, hopefully there will be a Warmoth among the bunch soon!!
 

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