This might be the prettiest Strat I've seen...

Thanks!

Roasted neck and body for sure. So you guys think that's oil, no grain filler, and lots of buffing?

No hard finish coat? No lacquer?

I've done Tung oil and it never got that dark. Does Tru Oil? Never used it.

I should mention that I'm a retired furniture maker. Built and designed high end furniture from 1985 until 2015 then sold the biz and retired.

We used Watco for the most part.

Watched a video from Warmoth about roasted swamp ash and how dark it gets with just multiple coats of clear sanding sealer. No stain. No oil.

I do want to build one that looks like the Strat in the photo in post #1 and do it in oil if that's how to achieve that look.

I'm currently working on this one:

10 coats of clear shellac sanded between coats with 800 and 1000 wet paper.

Didn't turn too dark but it sure brought out the dramatic grain!

Waiting on Nitro spray cans from StewMac.

That's not the neck I'll use. That's just a broken neck I use for a handle. I'm using a nice Warmoth neck cut to "SRV" specs.
 
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Roasted neck and body for sure. So you guys think that's oil, no grain filler, and lots of buffing?

No hard finish coat? No lacquer?

A little internet sleuthing has me feeling pretty sharp eyed....

The Percoco Custom Shop proudly introduces the Model 1918 "Frank". Classically inspired by Mario's own family roots. A one piece aged and roasted swamp ash body paired with a roasted maple neck and fingerboard provide an incredible amount of resonance, clarity and sustain. The hand rubbed oil finish retains the woods natural vintage look, amazing feel and woody tone.

Danish Oil and Tru Oil are both hard drying since they have resin varnish in them.
  • Danish Oil is a equal mix of 1 part varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part thinner. It is considered a penetrating oil
  • Birchwood-Casey Tru Oil is 3 parts varnish, 1 part linseed oil, 4 parts thinner, so it dries faster and harder of the two. It is not a penetrating oil. It's "on label" use is for gun stocks
  • Tung Oil contains no resin, it's just tung oil that we thin 50/50. It's a drying oil, but it doesn't harden
G&L uses Tru Oil on their "gun oil" necks.. Fender Custom Shop and Musikraft use danish oil on their oil-finished necks. Warmoth says, "All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing."

I've done Tung oil and it never got that dark. Does Tru Oil? Never used it

As you mentioned, roasted swamp ash turns a dark walnut color when coated.
 
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A little internet sleuthing has me feeling pretty sharp eyed....



Danish Oil and Tru Oil are both hard drying since they have resin varnish in them.
  • Danish Oil is a equal mix of 1 part varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part thinner. It is considered a penetrating oil
  • Birchwood-Casey Tru Oil is 3 parts varnish, 1 part linseed oil, 4 parts thinner, so it dries faster and harder of the two. It is not a penetrating oil. It's "on label" use is for gun stocks
  • Tung Oil contains no resin, it's just tung oil that we thin. it's a drying oil, but it doesn't harden
G&L uses Tru Oil on their "gun oil" necks.. Fender Custom Shop and Musikraft use danish oil on their oil-finished necks. Warmoth says, "All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing."



As you mentioned, roasted swamp ash turns a dark walnut color when coated.
Thank you! Good post!
 
I keep hearing gun oil , is that the regular oil you use to clean your gun barrel and stock, and if so could you theoretically use wd40. If not then what is gun oil
 
Polymerized Tung Oil does set up hard, and takes a nice polish; got it from Veritas. This guitar body and pickguard has 10-12 applications. After initial drying and wiping of excess oil I put it over a 25W dehumidifier/heater(Sta-Dri) for a day before sanding and reapplying. Good thing about it is absolutely no toxic solvents or other additives.
As corrected by Stratomania; Polymerized tung oil from Veritas(Lee Valley) is 50% mineral spirits. So it does emit toxic fumes including toluene, benzene, xylene and other cyclic and long-chain hydrocarbons. Good idea to use a carbon filter mask when using. Also means you’re only getting half as much actual tung oil in the can.
 

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Polymerized Tung Oil does set up hard, and takes a nice polish; got it from Veritas. This guitar body and pickguard has 10-12 applications. After initial drying and wiping of excess oil I put it over a 25W dehumidifier/heater(Sta-Dri) for a day before sanding and reapplying. Good thing about it is absolutely no toxic solvents or other additives.
That's an eye-poppingly beautiful instrument! (y) (y) (y) (y) (y) (y)
 
I've inhaled some paints that made me drool. Compared to that mineral spirits is potable. I'm not saying go inhale some, be careful, but it is easier to work with than other solvents.
 
Found out something interesting. I was told that Naphtha is the precursor to all other crude oil distillation products. Do you guys know if that's true? Also is ethylene the mother liquid for products made with natural gas, other than gaseous substances?
 
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Found out something interesting. I was told that Naphtha is the precursor to all other crude oil distillation products. Do you guys know if that's true? Also is ethylene the mother liquid for products made with natural gas?
I love me some "Cold Ethyl"
 
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