This is bobsessed fault!

[bobsessed]

The only way I've ever seen to correctly counter bore an existing hole, using a drill press, is with an index.

That'll work. I've had to drill string-through holes a number of times, so I do it a slightly different way with a simple indexing jig. Get a board larger than the body, clamp it to the stage and drill a single blind hole in it the same diameter as the string holes at the face side of the body. Then you break off a cheap or dull bit of the same diameter to make an indexing peg. Put the peg in the hole so it sticks up 1/4" or so. Then you can place the body face down so the peg fits into a string hole and your quill will automatically be aligned with the center of the hole. Drill the counterbore, then lift the body off the pin, move it to the next hole and go again. Keep doing that until you run out of holes.

I originally did it that way for drilling holes all the way through the body, as it's risky to drill all the way through from one side if it's important that the holes be perpendicular. Chances of the bit wandering off-center on its way through are high with smaller diameter bits. So, you drill partway through on one side, then use the indexing jig to drill from the other side to meet the hole. The same jig is then used to do the counterbore for the ferrules.

Perfect.....This is what I needed......Thanks for everything guys, this forum rocks.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I've added string thru holes on showcase bass bodies where the option couldn't be added once it came off the CNC table.

For the ferrule depth and counter sink, I set up a shelf/guide on my drill press.  I took a scrap piece of wood with a straight side.  On the the straight side, I put a mark corresponding with each string and it's spacing.  Then, with a square, mark a line for each string.  Put the marked wood on the drill press with the Forstner bit with the O.D. of the ferrule.  With the lines on the wood and the center point of the bit, drill each hole, slide it down the straight edge and repeat. 

You now have a jig with the same spacing as your strings, IT'S STRAIGHT, it has the O.D. of your countersunk ferrules, and you haven't even touched the body yet. 

With 2 sided tape, attach to the body corresponding with the centers of the string thru holes. 

Set the height and depth with drill press.  Hand turn the Forstner bit to get it started in the jig each time so you know it isn't biting or misaligned.  Turn it on, rinse, repeat.

On a bass, it's really easy because the string spacing is 3/4", the ferrule O.D. is 3/8", and recessed portion is 1/2".  Those aren't weird in between, non standard sizes of bits.  On a guitar the spacing is closer, but double triple quadruple checking the jig with tools and eyes should eliminate any inconsistencies. 

 

[Tonar8352]

This is turning out to be a fun thread but alas we return to the Tele refin.
So here it is sanded levle and ready to shoot the yellow shading lacquer.

Now with the yellow shading lacquer. I turned the fluid down and crank the air pressure so it gets a nice mist and then hold the gun further away from the surface than I normally would and that way I get a nice even color coat. This is ready for a few more coats of clear then another level sanding before burst.

 

[Nando Vallart]

 

[bobsessed]

Oh Yeah....lookin' good  :icon_thumright:

 

[Tonar8352]

Today is a good day to shoot a burst.
Level sanded after two coats of clear over the yellow shade coat and ready for the burst.

I only focus on the edge at first.

Here is the back with the over spray from the front and a nice clear target of the edge.

Back to the front with the over spray from the back and a little more color to the edge so the first color is getting wider. I'll let it hang for awhile and check for any areas I can see through the color on the edge and then I'll get the next color on it.

 

[rgand]

It's amazing what a difference that makes! Looking really good.

 

[Tonar8352]

Now comes the scary part. This is before the melt coat is shot that blends the colors together. Here it is with the tobacco brown.

Ahhhh, and then the magic happens with one coat of clear to melt it all together. :turtle:

 

[Cagey]

Neat trick! Looks great!

 

[nullref]

Yeah, very nice!

 

[Tonar8352]

I have been saving this pick guard for a special project and this seems like as good as it is going to get. This is suppose to be the same stuff and made with the same methods as the original black guard material. I don't know how true that is but it is different than the ones I have gotten from Callaham. It needed to be finished so here it is being shot with lacquer.

Here it is with a couple of coats of clear, level sanded and taped to a quart can which is the way I think Fender did it in the 50's.

And with the final coat of clear.

 

[Great Ape]

And of course that can is an essential element in the tonality of the finished guitar! Another of Leo's secrets revealed! Great work as always, Greg, seriously.

 

[dmraco]

I have always loved how a burst melts when you throw on the first of the final coats of nitro.  I think that is a quality not seen in urethane finished guitar.

A painted pick guard.  I have done it before on some of the EVH styles I have done before and always worried about durability.  Good to know that Leo did it first!!!

 

[Tonar8352]

I have done before and always worried about durability.

There will be zero durability. Check out the old black guard Tele's they look horrible, that is the idea for this one.  :laughing11: 

 

[fdesalvo]

Someday I'll commision you.  Someday.  Would love to learn from you, man.  Love your work.

 

[Tonar8352]

I'm real happy with how this guitar is turning out. It polished up beautifully and the Loller Royal T pickup looks really good it. I'm very interested in the change the pickup will make to the tone of this guitar.

 

[rgand]

Looking fine! I do like that pickup in it.

 

[BigSteve22]

Looking fine! I do like that pickup in it.

Me too! Love the look of the exposed pole pieces.

Any of you Tele guys know if an open cover like than can be retrofitted onto a Duncan Vintage Stack Tele neck pickup? I mean, is there any reason that I couldn't, or shouldn't, remove the existing cover and replace it with an open one?

 

[Cagey]

I know metal covers change the sound of pickups, but it's tough to say what effect adding/removing a partial metal shroud would have. Could range from no effect at all to completely ruining it. It's probably not an expensive experiment, though. At least, not financially. Tearing the guitar apart and putting it back together two or three times might be kind of a pain in the ass, depending on how you like to spend your evenings.

 

[BigSteve22]

I know metal covers change the sound of pickups, but it's tough to say what effect adding/removing a partial metal shroud would have. Could range from no effect at all to completely ruining it. It's probably not an expensive experiment, though. At least, not financially. Tearing the guitar apart and putting it back together two or three times might be kind of a pain in the ass, depending on how you like to spend your evenings.

I'm think'n of an SD Vintage Stack Tele neck pickup. Emailed SD to ask about it too. Being most covers are non-magnetic in the first place, what's the mechanism for effecting the tone? Just an attenuation of the field caused by the obstruction?