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The Prodigal Neck Returns

Verne Bunsen

Hero Member
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Hello all! I used to be a frequent contributor / participant around here, but the last few years have allowed me little time for guitar-related pursuits. Recently though, one fell in to my lap and I have chosen, enthusiastically, to embrace it! The forum software is a little different than it used to be so forgive me if I have to work the kinks out of formatting and such…

By long and circuitous route, a Warmoth neck that I bought back in 2019-20 but was never able to take delivery of has made its way home. It was initially intended to be the neck for THIS build. Long story short: At the time it was shipped directly from Warmoth to a third party for some work, but the guy it went to came on some hard times and it eventually ended up in storage somewhere with his tools and I ultimately just wrote it off as lost to time. Fast forward to a few weeks ago and I was contacted out of the blue about it by a family member of the gentleman (he’s ok for anyone reading between the lines), who had found the neck with my name on the invoice. And now here it is, at my home, and I daresay it was worth the wait! I am very appreciative of the honesty and character of the man who found it and took the time to track me down.

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This neck clearly deserves to be bolted to a body, not stuffed in a box. I hope to do it justice! More to follow.
 
There’s only so much I can do with just the neck in-hand, so that’s where I’m starting. Gotoh Magnum Lock tuners. These have become my favorite tuners. My Go-toh if you will….

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The order for the body is in. It will be a Mooncaster with two F-holes and the fiddley lower horn toggle switch. Mahogany with a Black Korina lam and black binding, finished in Caribbean Burst up front and clear on the back. I am very excited to see how that turns out… It will get a ToM / STP and I intend to mount a Bigsby B5 on a Vibramate plate to the STP studs. I have a TonePros roller bridge on hand to further this cause.

It will be routed for two humbuckers and I have obtained a set of Gibson 57 Classics for it. That’s what Johnny A uses, and if it’s good enough for Johnny A then it’s good enough for Verne B….

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That'a a truly majestic neck!

Back around 1999 or so I had acquired a similar CBS-headstock gloss ambered Warmoth neck that was QUILT maple.
It got left behind when I jumped continents and I never did get it back...
 
That'a a truly majestic neck!

Back around 1999 or so I had acquired a similar CBS-headstock gloss ambered Warmoth neck that was QUILT maple.
It got left behind when I jumped continents and I never did get it back...
I bet that was something to see! Was it attached to a guitar at the time?
 
I was looking closer at the photos and I am wondering if you had the frets installed whether the work was in progress. It looks like the frets were installed but perhaps the final level, crown, bevel or end dressing did not get done.
 
I was looking closer at the photos and I am wondering if you had the frets installed whether the work was in progress. It looks like the frets were installed but perhaps the final level, crown, bevel or end dressing did not get done.
Your eyes do not deceive you. Frets were installed by Warmoth but no further work has yet been done to them. Despite being several years old, it is basically fresh out of the box.
 
I'm no stranger to a Bigsby, and if 20+ years of fiddling with them could be distilled to a single Golden Rule of Bigsby, it would be this: A Bigsby will be at its most functional and least frustrating only after you replace every single moving part. There are a couple of places offering fantastic aftermarket improvements for them, Callaham and Bricks being the two that I have used extensively. For this build, the Bigsby is being retrofit with a full compliment of Callaham parts.

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The stock front roller is a thin, low quality piece that rides on separate wear bushings and eats sustain and tone for lunch.

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The replacement (roller and axle) are solid stainless steel. Sustain and "snap" you can feel in the seat of your pants.
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The Bigsby mainshaft with the pins for the string balls is such a pain. The string-through shaft is an absolute no-brainer; I don't understand why Bigsby hasn't adopted it as part of the design. The fiddlyest part of the whole upgrade process is removing those pins so the main shaft can be removed. One always breaks, and this was no exception. PITA to the bitter end...
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For some inexplicable reason, the stock Bigsby arm bracket (top) comes with a physical stop designed apparently to prevent the arm from moving into a convenient position for playing. The upgrade eliminates this "feature"...
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Ready to go. I've got the Vibramate plate, got the roller bridge, just need the, you know, body...
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I'm no stranger to a Bigsby, and if 20+ years of fiddling with them could be distilled to a single Golden Rule of Bigsby, it would be this: A Bigsby will be at its most functional and least frustrating only after you replace every single moving part. There are a couple of places offering fantastic aftermarket improvements for them, Callaham and Bricks being the two that I have used extensively. For this build, the Bigsby is being retrofit with a full compliment of Callaham parts.

Photo-Mar-04-2026-8-02-08-PM.jpg


The stock front roller is a thin, low quality piece that rides on separate wear bushings and eats sustain and tone for lunch.

Photo-Mar-04-2026-8-04-51-PM.jpg


The replacement (roller and axle) are solid stainless steel. Sustain and "snap" you can feel in the seat of your pants.
Photo-Mar-04-2026-9-58-13-PM.jpg


The Bigsby mainshaft with the pins for the string balls is such a pain. The string-through shaft is an absolute no-brainer; I don't understand why Bisby hasn't adopted it as part of the design. The fiddlyest part of the whole upgrade process is removing those pins so the main shaft can be removed. One always breaks, and this was no exception. PITA to the bitter end...
Photo-Mar-04-2026-8-11-39-PM.jpg


For some inexplicable reason, the stock Bigsby arm bracket (top) comes with a physical stop designed apparently to prevent the arm from moving into a convenient position for playing. The upgrade eliminates this "feature"...
Photo-Mar-04-2026-10-03-16-PM.jpg


Ready to go. I've got the Vibramate plate, got the roller bridge, just need the, you know, body...
Photo-Mar-04-2026-10-06-46-PM.jpg
I just drill mine out with drill press for string install. , I also ditch the tension bar and run it just on the steel inner axel itself. Works for me.
 
I just drill mine out with drill press for string install. , I also ditch the tension bar and run it just on the steel inner axel itself. Works for me.
I have tried the bare axle up front on F-Logo B5s (on Teles) because they sit much closer to the saddles than a standard B5 and break angle becomes a thing. Wasn’t crazy about that though. Bricks has smaller diameter front rollers on bearings that are quite nice, I have been running those on my F-Logos for a long time. I just recently tried a new thing he offers, individual rollers per-string… It’s pretty bitchin’…
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I have tried the bare axle up front on F-Logo B5s (on Teles) because they sit much closer to the saddles than a standard B5 and break angle becomes a thing. Wasn’t crazy about that though. Bricks has smaller diameter front rollers on bearings that are quite nice, I have been running those on my F-Logos for a long time. I just recently tried a new thing he offers, individual rollers per-string… It’s pretty bitchin’…
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Your way is much more elegant! I guess Old Spud is a bit frugal!! Cool mods broheem!
 
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