The New Guy - $00 it hit me - Reality = $$ or "Just go for it"?

Regarding the string holes, I've got a chandler 555 that I custom ordered about 10 years ago.  The guitar is very very nice, but the string holes are a bit funky - almost like in the pic!

I would not feel so bad about it.  It's gonna be on the back after all.

BTW - next time use a fostner bit.  :icon_biggrin:
 
Ouch! Still, in time, those holes will just be a funny story you tell after a couple of beers. And for the money you're saving you could buy a new freaking body from Warmoth!
I forgot - why was it that you didn't have Warmoth do all this drilling? I've never needed to do any of this stuff.
 
tfarny said:
Ouch! Still, in time, those holes will just be a funny story you tell after a couple of beers. And for the money you're saving you could buy a new freaking body from Warmoth!
I forgot - why was it that you didn't have Warmoth do all this drilling? I've never needed to do any of this stuff.


I got the body off the Bay....Before I had any idea that Warmoth was the way to go. The picture of hard ash just said "buy me"
mayfly said:
Regarding the string holes, I've got a chandler 555 that I custom ordered about 10 years ago.  The guitar is very very nice, but the string holes are a bit funky - almost like in the pic!

I would not feel so bad about it.  It's gonna be on the back after all.

BTW - next time use a fostner bit.  :icon_biggrin:


Fostner bit?  I'll look it up.


Blue313 said:
Definitely sounds like you're having a good time with it.   :icon_thumright:

I have to ask, what happened with the string holes?


I'm not really sure. The front of the guitar is spot on. I measured the bridge, centered the holes, used a drill press. When I finished the front holes were perfectly straight on the fromt. Turned it over and WTF :icon_scratch:

I wanted to counter sink the ferrules holes and things just got worse fromt there.

Truth be told I'm a little bumed, but I'll fill those ferrules holes and get some more info from y'all.  Either way it's a lesson to learn and experience to gain, and hay gloss black back with trans blue dye front is still achievable.

Any input is always welcome....as I stated when this first posted....We all have a first build. I've got two really good margaritas in me and a big smile on my face :headbang1:
 
BTW - next time use a fostner bit. 


A little trip to WoodCraft in Austin brought about a nice suprise. This very nice older guy set me up with some scrap hard ash, a Forstner bit and a plug cutter. He even took me to the drill press to explain how to use each tool :icon_thumright:

Helpful people make the world a better place.

Some Pics before I re-drill the string thru holes

OH!! and a question for the W experts. Is there a proper distance from the nut too the bridge on a 22 fret W neck? Or is the measurement from the 12th fret. Truth be told I just found the center line and mounted it up to the PG and then marked my holes.
So if there is a better or correct way PLEASE DO TELL.
 
DangerousR6 has to get some props for his suggestion on locating the screw mounting holes on the neck pocket...DR6 You rock

please share with the rest of us kids...
Thanks
 
USC-Blues said:
OH!! and a question for the W experts. Is there a proper distance from the nut too the bridge on a 22 fret W neck? Or is the measurement from the 12th fret. Truth be told I just found the center line and mounted it up to the PG and then marked my holes.
So if there is a better or correct way PLEASE DO TELL.

I think there was an intonation question in there somewhere.  12th fret harmonic and fretted at the 12th should be identical.  Adjustment is at the bridge saddle.
 
USC-Blues said:
Is there a proper distance from the nut too the bridge on a 22 fret W neck? Or is the measurement from the 12th fret. Truth be told I just found the center line and mounted it up to the PG and then marked my holes.
So if there is a better or correct way PLEASE DO TELL.
The distance from nut to the saddle is called the Scale Length.  It's twice the distance from the front edge of the nut to the center of the 12th fret.  Then you add a little bit for compensation  (1/8" is an average but it can vary)
 
stewmac has a scale for scale length
here http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator/
http://www.stewmac.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi

now lets get back to how to locate the neck holes with that iron maden thing
 
DO YOU HAVE "Guitar Player Repair Guide" by Dan Erlewine? YET? In order to assess what you need to do, and what you feel comfortable doing yourself, you need to read the instructions for doing so. You can possibly divide it up project-by-project and ask good questions, and make sure the internet answers you get are the good ones and not just the opinion of someone who's never DONE the task you're asking about. :eek:

In my experience, Warmoth frets need to have the ends rounded, working from about 220 grit upwards. They won't need to be leveled, unless you're Paul Gilbert, and if one or two are a little high there are easy* fixes.... IF you can measure really well, situating and drilling the bridge is a breeze. I personally prefer as much clearance as possible on the high E string (cause I pull it off the edge), while others push the low string off, but most people like 'em dead centered. There's even TWO ways to drill the string-through holes perfect, with a hand drill - one is to measure, perfectly, in from the edges of the back - too - and drill tiny pilot holes that meet up. The other is to drill one hole (D or G string) all the way through, then use that hole to place your tiny pilot holes equidistant up from the back, to meet the tiny pilot holes from the front.... Your high E string saddle will end up 1/16" back from the scale length, the low string slightly less than 1/4" back. Set them all the way forward, and the natural scale length will give you plenty of adjustment room. Use sacrificial strings to center the bridge, if you don't have a PERFECT straightedge. (Hint: You're gonna want a PERFECT straightedge, sometime in your life... :toothy12:)

The soldering's easy*, as are all the little holes* - as Skuttlefunk mentioned in another thread, there are only a few structural holes that matter to get PERFECT - like the neck & the bridge. The neck's done.... :hello2: There's a world of little stuff like waxing the screws, roughing up the pots to make the solder stick, how not to chip the finish when you drill, etc - read the book, or divide up your questions.


*("Easy" once you've read the instructions)  :blob7:
 
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