Strat Neck Nut and Tremolo width... need Help pls


I hope you all doing well. I Need somebody to help me with i Strat i want to buy at Warmoth.

I want bild a SRV- style Strat. now the Question is, if i order a Neck with SRV-Back and vitage Nut size. How width will be the Neck. Will it fit the Vintage Tremolo like the original 62 Necks SRV used. In other words how wide is a warmoth Neck with vintage 1.650" (42mm) - Vintage Medium Nut. Is it as wide as a 62 Strat Neck was.

The modern Fenderstyle Tremole: String spread is 2-1/8" (53.8 mm)
The vintage Style 6 Screw: String spread is 2-7/32" (56.36mm)

This is real a big different spacing. Are the holes drilled, i cant switch back to the other system. Or know someone two Bridges with the same Screw-System with the two diferent spacings, so i can try it out.

Whats up with the Pickup-Spacing from, lets say a set of Fender 57/62. Are they as wide es a vintage strat Pickup from 50s and 60s.Will it fit like it did back in the Day, asuming a vintage medium Nut and Vintage Trem, Or is this all changed. I want is so like it was back then if possible.

Real thx you all for reading, sry for bad english!


Never worried about that stuff as I use the Gotoh NS510TS-Fe1 bridge (which is a 2 and 1/16th spread or 10.5) and a neck that's at least 1 and 3/4's at the nut.  Never had a problem in terms of slippage.  The rout is the same as the regular gotoh bridge (10.8 ) so you can go back and forth if you want.  I don't think Gotoh makes a 56mm.

As for getting the pickup poles to line up, never had a problem.  I always install the neck first with the tuners, put on the bridge, put on the strings and then install the pups making sure the strings line up over the pups.  I don't worry about the pole pieces being exactly under a string, as long as the string spread looks nice, you know, symmetrical in relation to the pole piece, it works. 

In terms of the bridge, the neck profile is irrelevant.

Where you from?
Thank you for you experiences and thoughts. Im from Germany.

I need to think about this.

Thank you!
Translation also below...and a lot more to think about  :)

In terms of nut width.

1962 was a transition year for Fender. So when in '62?

But from around Spring of 62 Fender offered necks as follows:

A = 1 1/2" nut width.

B = 1 5/8" nut width. (default).

C = 1 3/4" nut width.

D = 1 7/8" nut width.

B was the "standard" neck width unless you ordered one of the other sizes. Note these letters have nothing to do with the neck profile.

So probably 1 5/8" is the most likely width that was on the guitar you are trying to emulate...1.650 is somewhere between  1 5/8" and 1 11/16"

Any of those neck widths will work with the vintage spaced bridge as the heel dimensions are the same. If the nut is narrower it just means the taper of the strings differs.

Another thing is also in 1962 rosewood boards became curved veneer rather than slab boards. The SRV from around that time I believe had a curved veneer board which Warmoth does not offer.

You can also obtain bridges that look vintage but have narrower spacing meaning your E strings will be less close to the edge of the fretboard.

Callaham make narrow spaced six screw tremolos although so do ABM in Germany.

In terms of pickups any pickup of standard Fender dimensions will not line up accurately in terms of pole pieces as the string spacing tapers but the pickups have the same dimensions. And this would mean that standard staggers and spacing are the same as in the 60s.

Makers such as Haeussel (again in Germany) offer a Truespace option which assures actual polepiece alignment.

Additionally dependent on fretboard radius you might want vintage stagger or flatter polepieces for more modern radii.

Unless you are set on trying to make something as close as possible perhaps go for an inspired by with specs to suit your own preferences.

In Bezug auf die Sattelbreite.

1962 war ein Übergangsjahr für Fender. Wann also im Jahr 1962?

Aber ab etwa Frühjahr 62 bot Fender Hälse wie folgt an:

A = 1 1/2" Sattelbreite.

B = 1 5/8" Sattelbreite. (Standard).

C = 1 3/4" Sattelbreite.

D = 1 7/8" Sattelbreite.

B war die "Standard"-Halsbreite, es sei denn, Sie bestellten eine der anderen Größen. Beachten Sie, dass diese Buchstaben nichts mit dem Halsprofil zu tun haben.

Wahrscheinlich ist also 1 5/8" die wahrscheinlichste Breite, die auf der Gitarre war, die Sie nachbauen wollen... 1.650 liegt irgendwo zwischen 1 5/8" und 1 11/16".

Jede dieser Halsbreiten wird mit dem Vintage-Steg funktionieren, da die Fersenabmessungen die gleichen sind. Wenn der Sattel schmaler ist, bedeutet das nur, dass die Saiten unterschiedlich verjüngt sind.

Eine andere Sache ist, dass 1962 die Palisanderbretter nicht mehr aus Platten, sondern aus gebogenem Furnier bestanden. Ich glaube, die SRV aus dieser Zeit hatte ein gewölbtes Furnierbrett, das Warmoth nicht anbietet.

Es gibt auch Brücken im Vintage-Look, die einen engeren Abstand haben, was bedeutet, dass die E-Saiten nicht so nah am Rand des Griffbretts liegen.

Callaham stellt Tremolos mit schmalem Abstand und sechs Schrauben her, aber auch ABM in Deutschland.

In Bezug auf die Tonabnehmer wird jeder Tonabnehmer mit Standard-Fender-Maßen in Bezug auf die Pole-Pieces nicht genau ausgerichtet sein, da sich der Saitenabstand verjüngt, die Tonabnehmer aber die gleichen Abmessungen haben. Das würde bedeuten, dass die Standardstaffelung und die Abstände die gleichen sind wie in den 60er Jahren.

Hersteller wie Haeussel (ebenfalls in Deutschland) bieten eine Truespace-Option an, die die tatsächliche Ausrichtung der Stangen gewährleistet.

Abhängig vom Griffbrettradius können Sie außerdem Vintage Stagger oder flachere Polepieces für modernere Radien wählen.

Wenn Sie nicht unbedingt versuchen wollen, etwas so nah wie möglich zu bauen, sollten Sie sich vielleicht von einem Modell inspirieren lassen, das Ihren eigenen Vorlieben entspricht.

Übersetzt mit (kostenlose Version)
I picked up that his native language wasn't English ... I can imagine me trying to get on a Japanese, Spanish or French website.  Jeez, I'd be posting in the for sale section.
Thank you much for your words.

The veener or rounded Fretboard thing is a nother aspect a thought i while back. Maybee take a maple Fretboard because the Frets from SRVs no.1 main-Neck were sticking down in to the maple, and this guitar was way brighter and with a harder attack then the others.

The best would be trying the neck out, but this will not happend. My Acoustic got the Fender Vintage Spacing on the Bridge. its real a big different in playing as my electric.

Going for something that is fitting myself would be great. First i will go back to Musicstore in Colone and try different strats with my eys on thes aspects.

MAybee i order a unfinished NEck and Body, this will be way cheaper and not that a Risk. I am not in optical Things. Laqer the Neck myself will be possible

Greatings and thx so much

Is the Trem with vintage montage spacing and smaler String spacing. Thank you man!

Another Question came up. I use indead a 200g aditional weight on my guitar to prevent neckdive. I Like it that way.
Do you think a light-weight Alder Body will have more chance to build a Neckdiving guitar then a normal Alder Body?

I Think it will how do You think?

When you go to the music store in cologne bring your strap and see if you have any neck dive with a light body strat.  Having a light weight guitar is nice.  I’ve only had neck dive with teles , but I love them.